Month: September 2021

Total Distance – 1101.1km

A Heysen Trail Story

“Well this is it yorlye!  I’m packed up and about to set off to finish this thing.  I feel ready….

Also because a small branch/large stick fell onto my tent last night and busted a big hole through my fly.  I don’t think the tape will be able to fix this!”

Message to my support crew

True story.  Can you believe that!!??  On the final night a stick takes out my tent fly.  “Why?” gear gods.  “Why?”

I guess I shouldn’t have been surprised.  Sleeping bag on the first night.  Tent on the last.  And pretty much everything else absolutely pummelled in between.  Yes, I shouldn’t have been surprised.

But I was. And the gaping hole flapping around in the wind all night did not make for the relaxing, last nights sleep I had been hoping for.  So I was up earlier than I have been, and on my way.

It was a spectacular days walk.  Absolutely a fitting ending to an epic journey.  The colour of the water, the beautiful bays, soaring hills of the most vibrant green.  I think I’ll let my photos do the talking. 

As for me.  I surprised myself.  I wasn’t sad.  And the reason, I soon realised, was an overarching, intense feeling of pride, that infused my body and mind and smothered all other emotions.  A powerful, invincible feeling, that I hope doesn’t fade away too quickly when life’s normal trials and tribulations recommence.

The ending of the walk was super special.  Cath and Greg had family and friends gathered to cheer them on, and they did the same for me when I walked in.  It was a wonderful moment.  Champagne was popped and poured and I was really able to soak up the feeling of having achieved something monumental. 

I hugged both Cath and Greg fiercely.  The first hugs I’ve given or received in almost 3 months.  I told the two of them that regardless of anything else that happened on the trail, meeting them had been the luckiest, most fortuitous thing that could have happened to me out there.  These people, who had been strangers, are now such a large part of the story of one of my greatest achievements.  The saddest part of the day was saying goodbye to them.

I’m staying in Cape Jervis for the night.  I had been thinking this might be a nice rounding off of the journey.  A good old fashioned pub meal and some decompression time before heading to Adelaide.  Not to be.  We all know I’ve visited many a pub on this trip…this one definitely rates as the most dodgy.  Even getting let into the general store to buy some dinner was difficult.  It was locked.  I needed to be let in specially by the barkeep.  I looked around, hoping for a microwave meal or something semi-celebratory.  The only dinner option…..packets of pasta and rice, exactly the same as those I have been eating for the last 2 months.  I bought one.  But it’s still sitting on the kitchen bench.  Untouched.  Twisties and Kit Kat it is!!!

I’m going to leave it here for tonight.  Obviously I’ll have many more reflections in the next few days and weeks as I try to get home.  I’ll write a little more once I’ve processed things a bit.  But for now, thank you so much to all those people that have been following along with me every step of the way.  And especially those that sent me encouraging messages of support.  It really made a huge difference to my mental well being!  Thanks yorlye!  xxxx

Total Distance – 1085.4km

A Heysen Trail Story

This is hard.  Hard to describe.  This feeling of such happiness.  And such profound loss.  I’ve never felt this way before in my life.  And I’m not sure how to process it.

Those are the thoughts in my head as I leave camp this morning.  Just one more full day on the trail.  One more night and it is done.  I pack up carefully.  Making sure everything is just so.  It is an easy process.  Done time and time and time again.  I barely need to think.  But it feels like a luxury to concentrate on the process, and so I do.

I have tears in my eyes as I leave.  It’s a real struggle getting all the emotion under control.  The walk is what brings me back.  As it often does.

I love today’s walk.  Short, but with some challenging hills around Deep Creek Gorge.  I revel in the physicality of it.  Charging up the mountains, often without a stop.  Knowing that this would have been impossible a couple of months ago.  I realise I’m as fit as I’ve ever been.  Maybe even more so in some respects.  It’s a lot to be grateful for.

There’s plenty of people out on the walking track.  Families with young kids and no water heading down to the bottom.  It never ceases to amaze me.  And in my job, I’ve seen it more than I care to acknowledge.

Past the Trig campsite it is quieter, enabling me to get wrapped up in my thoughts a little bit.  I’m thinking about returning to Adelaide.  To the city.  And more specifically, shedding my armour.

For two and a half months I’ve lived and breathed in this small assortment of clothes that I have.  They’ve handled it all – from facing weather adversity to going out to dinner at a fancy restaurant. It is such a strange feeling, an unpleasant feeling, knowing that soon, I will put something else on.  It feels a bit like a betrayal. 

I think of my drawers and wardrobes of clothes at home and shake my head.  It’s all so much simpler when the choices are limited.  I’m dreading going to the shops and facing the crowds.  But I’m going to have to.  For one, I’m pretty sure these clothes stink, and I’m just not really aware of it…And two, I’ve lost a lot of weight.  Maybe 10kg?  I’m not sure.  All I know is that my leggings are now more like tracksuit pants and my shorts must be cinched in and tied.  So, I’ll do it. But I don’t want to.

I reach the campsite early and proceed with my final site set up.  Again, I take my time and am fussy about everything I do and everywhere I put things.  It gets windy, so I crawl inside and lie on my bed for a while.  I will miss this simplicity.

My Clothes List

My Wonder Woman outfit consists of:

Blue walking shirt (Exofficio)

Shorts (Lorna Jane)

2 pairs of walking undies (Exofficio)

1 bra (Icebreaker)

Marino Leggings (200 – Icebreaker)

Marino Thermal Top  (200 – Icebreaker)

1 pair of bamboo undies

Marino singlet (Icebreaker)

Pullover jumper with hood (Macpac – I love this item!)

2 pairs of walking socks (Balega)

1 pair of night socks (Injinji)

1 pair of town socks (Wright socks)

Bamboo singlet for town (Patagonia)

Cotton long sleeved shirt for town (Kmart)

Puffy Jacket (Montane)

Beanie (Patagonia – this is probably the only thing I would have swapped out for something smaller and lighter)

Waterproof rain pants (Columbia)

Rain / wind jacket (Patagonia – which I love and features in nearly all the photos of myself!)

And, of course, my amazing and highly identifiable, town skirt!

Total Distance – 1073.7km

A Heysen Trail Story

Another wonderful day of walking. It really packed a punch! Gorgeous, fine weather again with a slight, cool breeze. Perfect for walking. It’s really turning it on for the final few days!

The first part of the day was through sheep paddocks with distant ocean views. The water is a deep, dark blue hinting at substantial depth beneath the surface.

A steep, skinny descent ends at the beach where I found a fellow munching on Twisties. He tells me this is his first time doing something like this – but doesn’t indicate how far he is planning to go. He looks amazed when he realises I am almost at the end. It seems such a normal thing for me to be doing now, that it is easy to forget that it is actually rather extraordinary.

Th beach is picture perfect. Rolling waves azure in colour. Rocky formations in white and rust. The tide is just right, and the sand is hard and firm to walk on. The sun glistens off the water. It simply couldn’t look any nicer.

It’s too much for me. I decide I have to get in. There is no way that I can’t swim, having seen how perfect it is. And there is no one around. I strip off to my undies and clamber into the water, squealling with delight. It is icy cold and it takes my breath away. But as the salt seeps into my pores I realise this is the longest I have gone without a swim for 6 years. Again, I get a wonderful feeling of going home.

I get out and dry off on the beach. I feel refreshed, happy and ready for the rest of the day. The sand eventually hits the rocks and the track climbs up and over a long headland. There are some decent up and downs through this section, so I take my time and rest in the shade where I can. I am watching a couple of surfers having the time of their lives (I can hear them cheering from right up on the clifftop) when I see a pod of dolphins – ten or so – cruising through the water. So effortless and graceful. It’s a treat.

The final section of the day occurs on a bush track through the Deep Creek Conservation Reserve. Again, wildflowers are abundant. It’s hot here. Not a breath of wind. And I am glad to reach camp a short time later.

I wander around looking for campsite 12. I pass Cath and Greg, and also Mel who was at the campsite last night. Mel has been section hiking, and this is her second to last section. She has been completing the trail slowly over a period of 4 years. That’s also such a massive commitment to achieving something! She will arrive in Cape Jervis the same day as the rest of us.

I find my site and set up. Still no reception – not enough for a conversation anyway. So I’ve decided to try not to think about the end today. Just enjoy the day for what it was. A perfect walking day.

P.S. I do get to talk to the head of my support crew. So that is an extra special treat that tops a wonderful day off nicely.

Total Distance – 1056.7km

A Heysen Trail Story

“Today was heaven on the end of a walking stick”

Me. To myself.

I’m not sure what it means. All I know is that it was a truely wonderful day of walking. Epic scenery. The clearest, blue sky. Gentle, cool breeze. Pounding surf, reflecting the sky. Long beach walks. Gulls crying overhead. Reams of rocks and boulders tumbling.

It was definitely my sort of day.

I’m really glad that this oceanic section of the walk is my finale. It has calmed me, soothed me and made me long for home. A reminder of all the good things I have waiting for me on my return. And I just find it utterly spectacular.

Only three days left now. The feeling of finishing is still bizzare. I want to finish. I’m ready to see my loved ones. My gorgeous, one of a kind, little dog. My house. My friends. My island home. But even talking about finishing causes me to tear up now. I’m not even sure why…I think it’s because it’s the end of something I’ve dedicated so fully to. It’s a little scary to question “what’s next?” This has been my plan for so long. And in just a couple of days, the plan will have been fulfilled. What is going to fill all this space? What’s the next challenge going to be?

I guess I won’t find out until I finish this and start the next. So there’s another positive! Not helping I think, is that this area is a communications black hole. I haven’t been able to talk to the head of my support crew, or any of the inner circle for that matter. It’s just me and my thoughts, such as they are. Perhaps there will be some further clarity in the coming days. I hope so.

In the meantime the mission is to enjoy! The campsite is not making it easy. This is a temporary site only. There are very few flat spots and we have three tents all within 20m of each other. As I type this I am looking out over the Shangri-La…the new campsite they are building, With camping pads, toilets, kitchen shelter and seats, it’s going to be a mecca. In the meantime, we can’t even find somewhere private to go the toilet. Maybe it’s a good thing. Because this….this I won’t miss.

Total Distance – 1045km

A Heysen Trail Story

It really was a day of wows! The first came as I closed the door to my room this morning. “Oh wow!” I thought. “This is it!”. The next time I stay in proper accommodation, I will, in all likelihood, be finished the Heysen Trail. There is really no denying it now. This adventure is coming to an end.

I had a really restful day in Victor Harbour. Did as most any tourist would do, and walked out along the pier to Granite Island. A beautiful place of large boulders and tumultuous surf. Visited the Norfolk cafe for some lunch. There was no way I wasn’t going to do that!

Later in the day, I was really excited to catch up with Cath and Greg, as well as their friend John, famous providore of wine and chocolate. We had a lovely dinner and much great discussion. Primarily about the trail. Of course.

John, being the generous person he is, offered to drive me the 6km back out of town in the morning and drop me back at the trail. This offer I happily accepted.

Right on time he picked me up, and we were on our way. I spoke to him about the strange feelings involved in this journey coming to an end. It has been so all consuming. Such a disconnect from my normal life in so many ways. It’s difficult to know where all this drive and passion will be directed once it’s done. What will consume my thoughts and actions? Is my life just going to go back to normal? Or will it be changed in some large or subtle way that I just can’t grasp yet. It’s all rather disconcerting.

John drops me off, and I thank him for the many kindnesses he has shown me. I’m happy that fate has aligned things so that I will catch up with Greg and Cath at a campground very soon. That we will actually finish on the same day. It seems….right somehow. Rather poetic.

But for now, I’m on my own. I get started up the track. And what a track it is! Absolutely stunning scenery. Wild, blue ocean. Wind buffetting. Huge granite boulders highlighted in irridescent orange. Islands out to sea. And in the second “oh wow!!” moment of the day, sheer cliffs dropping straight down to the water, and stretching for kilometers into the distance. It really was awe inspiring.

In the distance I could see rain squalls making their way to the coast, causing the islands to become shrouded in mystery. Difficult to see. I took the time to perch on a rock, overlooking it all, and just take it in. I told the head of my support crew that “my heart felt very light.” And it truely did.

It was not a difficult 14km into camp. I was able to find a nice, private spot with a table where I was able to relax in the sun for the afternoon. I walked a pathway up to the beach and observed the trail I will follow tomorrow. It is a super simple day. It is absolutely perfect.

Total Distance – 1036km

A Heysen Trail Story

I woke with a start last night. My sleep fuddled mind struggling to understand what had woken me. A gunshot was going through my head. But really? Was that possible? I looked at my clock. 10.30pm. My eyes started to drift shut again.

BANG!! This time no mistaking it. The sharp crack of a rifle. The noise of it reverberating around the valley. I sat up in bed. BANG!! BANG!! Two more shots. Where were they? It sounded close. Did they know I was here? In my little tent? BANG!! A rifle shot. BOOM!! The heavier sound of a shotgun.

What do I do? What would you have done? Stay huddled in my tent, blind to where they are and where they are going? Get out of the tent? Look for them? Maybe come across them? I’m a good Aussie girl. I’ve seen Wake in Fright. Stereotype or not, the thought of running into a group of shooters, out there by myself. No one else around, was terrifying.

It goes silent for a while and I wonder if they are gone. I am genuinely frightened at this point. BANG!! BOOM!! The noise is even closer now. I hear excited dogs barking on the wind. The shots get closer and closer. At one point I realise they have passed me. But will they come back? Eventually silence. And then a car drives slowly past. Silence again.

This whole episode lasted about an hour and a half. For all I know it could have been rangers, busily controlling feral animals. With the dogs, it was probably just blokes busily controlling feral animals. But I hope that that is the first and last time I wake to the sound of gunfire smattering around me whilst I’m in my tent.

Obviously I didn’t sleep well after that. And woke up feeling really out of sorts. Sick of packing up my tent and walking.

What kept me in the game was the thought of reaching the sea today. The Great Southern Ocean. Even the name has such an air of mystery and adventure.

Once I got underway my mind started to clear. The first glimpse of the ocean and I was back to the overly excited hiker I was at the beginning. Ready to start her epic adventure. That’s how much it lifted me. My aches and pains vanished. My moodiness disappeared. And I felt a complete joy. A feeling I hadn’t experienced for a few days. It was truely a remarkable moment.

The little town of Victor Harbour is beautiful. A long esplanade dotted with Norfolk pines. Little islands sitting pretty off the coast. Old, faded seaweed washed up on the beach in abundance.

Amazing what a bit of sea air, sparkling water and a bit of Vitamin D can do!! xxx”

Message from my sister

So true! I feel like a totally new person. With a bit of time to spare I drop into a fish and chip shop on the beach and get some lunch. Afterwards, I saunter to my accommodation. It takes a little longer than I expect. There are many locals that want to talk to me about what I’ve been doing. During one such encounter a fellow riding a bike asks me if I need help in knowing where to go. He runs into a post. Very, very hard not to laugh.

And now I’m here. With a rest day tomorrow. I’m booked into a nice restaurant tonight, and I have all day to get ready for the finale.

I feel positive. I can’t wait to get stuck into it. After a rest of course…

Total Distance – 1017km

A Heysen Trail Story

True to my word, I slept in. Actually woke to the sound of my alarm, which I have set less than a handful of times over the course of the trip. I lie in bed wishing that I didn’t have to get up. I’m feeling tired. Longing for the rest day I have scheduled in a couple of days time.

I haven’t actually had a proper rest day since Burra, at the 600km mark. My body has been increasingly insistent that I do so. And soon. These rainy days of speeding along have definitely not been helping my cause. I look out the window. Drizzle once again.

Jayne arrives promptly at 8am with a HUGE tray of food. I happily sit on the bed and consume every morsel. The fresh grapes, strawberries and blueberries taste absolutely divine. I’m feeling good once I get started for the day.

And it’s a really fantastic day of walking, primarily through conservation reserves. The wildflowers are the highlight of the day. Absolutely brilliant in the breadth of their colour and variety. Streams and waterfalls tinkle past throughout the day. Kangaroos and birds are abundant. It’s bushwalking at it’s best.

I’m moving very slowly today. With only a week to go, my body seems to be sensing that it can start to relax a bit. Break down. Aches and strains are becoming increasingly worrisome and common. Like I said, this rest day can’t come fast enough.

I arrive in the small village of Inman Valley around lunchtime and treat myself to a sit down meal. It is so nice to sit in that warm, dry place. Watching others around me, all rugged up, and enjoying their glass of wine with their hot meal.

The meal gives me a boost, and I finish the day with a lot more energy than what I started it with. The campsite is very small, only a couple of tents would fit in here, but with a great view. I lie in my tent for a while resting, before emerging into a cool, but dry late afternoon.

This would be a really great spot for sunset, but with this much cloud around, I’m not very hopeful. Stranger things have happened though. That’s for sure.

Total Distance – 1000km!!

A Heysen Trail Story

Do you see that? 1000km!  Can you believe that?  I can’t and I’ve walked it!

Just a little bit proud of myself.  By anyone’s standards, it’s a long way.  It’s a physical battle for sure.  But it’s the resilience that I’m most proud of.  The internal willpower to keep going.  Overcoming hardship, whether it be weather or solitude or fatigue in order to achieve a goal.  A dream.  My dream.  Yep.  I’m a proud girl right now.

The weather today consisted of another drizzly, grey mess.  Cold, but not as freezing as yesterday.  The whip lashing wind was missing for the most part today. Something I was very grateful for.

Still, it didn’t make for pleasant conditions to dilly dally in.  The optimal course of action quickly became clear.  Go, and go quickly.  Enjoy the scenery, but keep going.  And so I fanged it.  More through circumstance than design.

This morning took me on a winding, ridgetop dirt road through a large sheep paddock.  The town of Mt Compass could be seen off in the distance.

I was slowed down when I reached the Yulte Conservation Park which offered a lovely bush track up and down and around a mountain.  Colourful birds were in abundance, and the clouds cleared a little for views over the nearby paddocks.  Multiple waterfalls were running over the rocks.  A positive outcome of all this recent rain.

At the completion of this bush track the drizzly showers really set in.  It was a fairly miserable 6km or so along muddy roads to the Heysen’s Rest B&B.

I arrive wet and bedraggled to meet Jayne, the owner, who is absolutely lovely.  I had texted her a few days ago about dinner options, and she had offered to get me a microwave meal – which I excitedly agreed to!  She had it in her hand when she met me, and despite protestation, would not accept any money for it.  She showed me my cosy little room and inquired what time I would like my breakfast.

“Oh, ummm 8am please”.  “Oh”.  Pause. “Ok”, Jayne replies.  “Why, is that early or late?” I enquire.  “Late”, Jayne confirms.  But we are both happy for that, and I have a relatively short day tomorrow.  Why not have a little sleep in!?

My shower is luxury.  Room lovely and warm.  Cup of tea and a read on my bed.  Happiness doesn’t have to be complicated.

With the 1000km mark achieved, that only leaves the final goal.  Finish.  My head, heart, legs and feet are willing.  And I’ve given myself the opportunity.  Won’t be long until we all find out if I can actually achieve the ultimate goal…

Total Distance – 975.1km

A Heysen Trail Story

Just because I’m getting to the end, doesn’t mean the tough days are over. And today was a toughie.

It rained all night, and I actually had an excellent sleep. Woke feeling refreshed and ready to go. The rain had stopped, and I was feeling great as I set off from the campground.

It may have stopped raining, but everything was soggy and wet. A biting wind chilled the air. I came across a swiftly running creek and decided to try and keep my feet dry just a little bit longer….it was just so cold!

So shoes off and across I went. Cold feet for a little while, but a lot better than sopping shoes and socks.

It didn’t take long for the rain squalls to set in. Sleety cold and fierce, bitter wind. Very unpleasant to walk in, and the bane of my day.

The trail travelled through pine forest and native stringybark tracks. I stopped at the top of Mt Magnificent for a snack, but it was too windy and cold to really enjoy it.

My approach towards the sea became more evident in the afternoon as sandy tracks through coastal heathland scrub made their first appearance.

The heaviest rain squall hit a couple of kilometers before the caravan park. I had been planning on camping, but at this point was thinking that I would do or say just about anything to get inside a cabin for the night.

I trudged into the reception area like a forlorn, wet dog. Drips of water flying off me as I moved. “Please, please, please tell me you have a cabin available” I whimpered. He looked at me for just a beat, and I was petrified he’d say no. “For you, yes we do”. I could have hugged them both!

Whilst I settled payment, Jeanette the co-owner, bustled off to the cabin to ensure it was ready for me and to turn the heat on. When I arrived there, she even asked if I needed a lift into town to get anything. I didn’t, but it was so lovely of her to ask.

Inside the cabin I shed my wet gear and jumped straight in the steaming hot shower, teeth chattering. My skin prickled as it tried to warm up. It was heaven to stand under the hot spray.

Now, a couple of hours later I’m feeling very satiated. I’m in my nice, warm, freshly laundered clothes. It’s toasty warm in here and the bed is really comfortable. I have a big bowl of oriental fried rice and I reflect that I was eminently fortunate that the rain came on a day where I could access this brilliant little cabin at the end. Very lucky really.

To top things off, I had the opportunity to have a wonderful, wonderful chat to the head of my support crew and my most fantastic, fabulous friend, Miriam, who was helping him celebrate moving into his new house. How I wished I was there to hug them both! Not long now until that will be a reality…Bring on the hugs!

Total Distance – 946km

A Heysen Trail Story.

Short and sweet today. Short and sweet. Exactly what my overworked body needed. A nice, flat little run and an afternoon spent resting at camp.

Pleasant walking through forestry zones and along seldom used roads. I spy numerous grey fantails which make me laugh with their bruffness and remind me of home. I take the opportunity to have a catch up chat with the head of my support crew. Not long now till we’ll see each other in person. It’s exciting.

And before I know it, I’ve reached the campground. This site is even bigger than the last and large groups of Sunday picnicers lounge by roaring fires in their deckchairs. Kids loving the opportunity to get muddy on their bikes.

I spend the afternoon making my final bookings. There is a few complications as campsites are already booked out, but in the end, I am able to work things out satisfactorily. Time to bring this thing home!!

But first, a huge 30km day tomorrow…