Distance – 15km
Another wonderful day of walking! It was such a pleasant evening spent talking to dog walkers and their frisky pooches. Such a laugh watching them down near the water, feverishly waiting for their sticks to be thrown. All the owners were so lovely also, and gave me a lot of confidence about my decision to camp in that location. Nobody batted an eye, and everybody wished me the best for my journey. I am very grateful to all those dog walkers who took the time to talk.
It was a warm evening, but a rather grey morning. The first little spots of rain. Nothing to complain about though, and an interesting but short day was just waiting to be explored.
The crystal well, an old water pump system. A poor donkey would trudge around the circle all day pumping the water to the manor up the hill.
First up, a beautiful riverside walk directly adjacent to the fast flowing Tweed, twining through forests of oak and wild garlic. There were few people on the trail, and it felt such a dream to be witnessing the Scotland of my dreams.
I arrived in the town of St Boswell. All the towns are amazing in their ancient appeal. Grey stone and colourful front doors. Moss and ivy abundant on the walls. The store was open so I picked up a bit of lunch. This time some yoghurt and salami sticks. Gourmet. I tried the toilets, but they were locked. It’s kind of hit and miss with the bathrooms. Some open, some not. Some needing 30 pence to open. This was one of those. I definitely need to start carrying some coins around in my pocket.
I leave town and come across a couple of fellows coming the other way. They ask about my bag. I explain the details. They ask where I’m from. I say Norfolk Island. One of them asks whether there are any Pitcairners still living there. I’m amazed. And even more amazed when I learn these guys are from Canada. They explain that they have just always been interested in the story of the Mutiny on the Bounty. We have a good chat. They ask for my photo and I feel like a celebrity. They give me a little Canada pin and again I’m bewildered at how connected everybody really is. It was great to meet them and talk about home for a bit.
Onwards, and before long I reach the Eildon Hill, three impressive mounds full of myth and legend which overlook the town of Melrose. The view is expansive. The option is there to climb the domes, but I decide I want to spend the time checking out the little town of Melrose. People have spoken about the beauty of this little town and I am keen to experience it as much as I can.
I get into town and go to the Ships Arm pub. It’s so fantastic I just HAVE to take a photo before I go in. I bustle into the full lunchtime bar and approach the bartender. “Just after a pint are ye?”. “No, I’m staying here tonight”. “Here?” “Well, I think so”. “We have no rooms here”. Oh. Wrong place. We laugh. “Well, letting you know I won’t be staying here tonight!”.
I get to the correct hotel but can’t check in. That’s ok. I leave my bag and head out on the town. I enjoy spending time at the Trimontium Museum and learning about the Roman invasion of Scotland and local Roman fortifications (now buried) which were built in 43AD. The timelines are completely staggering. There is a huge array of old Roman artifacts which were dug up by a farmer tilling his field. This is a history I didn’t know about.
Back at the hotel I try for shower and find only cold water. Kaa duu (can’t do). I head down to the bar, order a wine and ask about it. Apparently this has “never happened before”. The phrase “just my luck comes to mind”. Second wine in and the bartender comes over. He now has hot water running in the sink. Hopefully, this is good news for me! The plan is to finish this wine, shower in hot water, dinner, and wander the streets till dark.
Fingers crossed.
Another awesome day.
This article was first published on The Trek and can be found here