Distance : 18km
Different day, different scenario. I woke up ready to right to right the ship.
Despite the rough day yesterday, it did what it needed to, which was put me in a position in which I had a number of options today. All of them reasonably good.
Firstly, it did start raining during the night, though not as heavily as what had been predicted. Still, I followed through with my intention of getting up early to cross all of the rivers I needed to before things got out of hand. I was away by 6.30am. No coffee.
I did have a plan though. Get through the next 10 km, enjoy it, and get to the Knockdamph bothy. There, in the comfort of the indoor environment, cook up all the dinner I was supposed to have last night and as many coffees as I required. That was goal number one. And I’m very good at chasing goals. Instantly my head switched from troubled to motivated.
The walk to the bothy was beautiful. Cascading waterfalls eventually opening up into a steep sided gorge, orange rocks glistening in the wet, green trees sheltering the depths of the pools, serpentine in it’s nature. It really reminded me of the amazing desert gorges of central Australia. Unexpected wonder.


Along the trail I enacted what could potentially be option 2. I emailed Oykel Bridge hotel, where I am booked to stay tomorrow night, to see if they had any space available for tonight also. That is a wait and see option, but it gives me a frisson of excitement to know that I might be getting a hot shower tonight!
I arrive at the bothy at around 9.30am. It is empty, and I select the space that might suit me best if I’m to stay, and go about cooking up a storm. With a full belly I am able to complete other small tasks that add to my overall positive psyche. Drying the tent and packing it up properly. Writing up my daily notes from yesterday. I feel like I’m getting back on top of things.


People begin to come and go, stopping in to get out of the rain briefly and have a bite to eat. I’m pleased when a couple come in with three dogs in tow, all looking for treats and a pat! A familiar voice, “hello”, and I turn to see Dave, the surprise even greater because I hadn’t expected to run into him again. We catch up on our stories. He’s been taking an “easier” route than me the past few days – carrying a day pack only, going to accommodation in between days, and taking a less difficult route. He sincerely tells me how unbelievable it is that I did what I did yesterday. That I made is so far in these conditions and in this terrain. That I should feel very proud of myself. Almost makes me cry. He leaves, knowing we will see each other at Oykel Bridge tomorrow where I will meet his wife (for whom he is dedicating his cancer walk), and we will have a celebratory drink together. Our paths will diverge at that point, each of us left to finish our adventures on our own.
I still haven’t heard back from the hotel, and so, having seen a big, fat, half tame rat running around the bothy, I decide to enact option 3. I will walk another 7km to the School House bothy. If I haven’t heard from the hotel, I’ll forget that plan and stay at the bothy. That is how it works out in the end. The bothy is lovely however, and I have my own little room that I have been snuggled up in, reading, for the afternoon. I feel rested, well fed and relaxed. I’ve got this. (I think.)



This article was originally published on The Trek which can be found here
What a chirpy entry! As you said, nothing like being congratulated on your efforts by a friendly face! The walk sounds lovely today. Photos don’t do it justice, I expect! So good that you made use of both bothies – the Schoolhouse one looks just perfect in the online photos xx
You are amazing Mel! All that wet, boggy terrain! Have your feet dried out at all!? We can definitely sympathise with the midgy attack, that happened to us in Scotland on a very beautiful sunny day! Nearly there…good luck