Distance: 26km
Last night was a doozy. Straight up. Though the wall did it’s best to protect me, it was still a rip snorting ride of nerves, as the tent bent and buckled and swayed under the ferocious might of the freezing wind.
I remember just a couple of weeks ago, it was nighttime bliss, sleeping in a singlet and undies. Last night, by comparison, it was socks, double thermal leggings, singlet, thermal top, fleece jumper, and two hoodies. Despite that, I was chilled to the bone about the potential breaking of my home away home. The noise, the shuddering and shaking, the sound of wind screaming over the water, all of it made for a night of little sleep.
We survived though. The tent and I. And rose to a reasonably clear morning. The squalling rain throughout the night was no match for the drying power of the wind, and so it was a dry tent that I packed into my bag.
I started the day with the second of my road deviations. This time, I had noticed a creekside track indicated on the maps, which would take me several kilometres towards my destination. This was a great alternative to the original trail. Pure creekside, virtually no bog, and importantly, no dangerous rivers to cross. A great beginning.
Not so much the next 17km or so. A combination of the road walk and back on the actual trail into Kinlochbervie. Mostly it was bleak and dreary, the rain hitting hard the whole time.
The highlight of this section was realising that I was so close to the ocean. The smell of brine, seaweed and salt, fishing vessels, and screeching seagulls, all indicators that I am getting so close to my goal now.
I arrived, wet and hungry at the Kinlochbervie hotel at around 1.30. I’d been seeing signs about how welcoming they were, the hot food and drinks I could expect to receive, for quite some time now. Closed. Not opening until 3pm. Gutted.
I wasn’t going to wait around that long in this weather. I went to the shops and got a few supplies and then made my way to a little place I had heard about in Oldshoremore. These legends, Andy and Angela, allow hikers to set up camp at their retreat, with access to the showers and a little kitchen. Angela even offers me the use of a proper towel, and passes me a “little special” as reward for my efforts. A small bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon. Legends.
I sit in he kitchen now, enjoying things. It’s raining, but the forecast is for clearer skies over the next two days. I am ready. It’s time to bring this one home.
This articles was originally published on the The Trek which can be found here