Distance: 26km
Another extraordinary day of hiking with the trifecta of varied terrain, amazing scenery and perfect weather. Not to mention a physical challenge. I had a blast.
The day was started right with a huge waffle covered in Nutella and bananas. Perfect energy food, even though “the regular breakfast cook is away and so this looks…pretty bad”. It did look pretty bad, but it still tasted sweet!
The walk this morning started with a straightforward riverside ramble. I’ve finished on the St Cuthbert Trail now, and have moved onto the Southern Upland Way. It’s a different looking signpost, so it’s quite exciting.
Before long I recognise somewhere I have been before – the train station at Tweed Bank! There I sat, just a few days ago, wondering where the pathway I could see went to…and now I know!
I passed a woman standing track side with her eager looking dog. I heard her say “Not long now mate. Here it comes….” Soon after a bolt of black fur lightning shot past me, trying for all money to keep up with the accelerating train. Alas, despite best efforts, he was unable to maintain pace, and so doggedly returned to his owner, a look of pure glee on his smiling face.
The track continues along the Tweed River, at times presenting grand views of Abbortsford House, home of the famous Scottish author Sir Walter Scott (1771 – 1832). A brief tour through Galashiels and crowded woodland and then I am on my own again, climbing within a sheep field.
This is the first physical challenge of the day. The weather was perfect, not too hot with a light breeze. Stone walls crisscrossed the fields in long ribbons of grey. I cheer when I reach my first cairn of the trip.
From the top, it’s back to the bottom again and a reacquaintance with my old friend the Tweed. I filter some water and take a little break in preparation for the second climb of the day.
The route climbs seriously now, paralleling a small burn (stream) as it does so. Eventually, I emerge onto a dreamscape. Colours of maroon and black and green, and incredible views back towards the Eildon Hills, where I had started this morning. The colours were so stark because a large section of the heathland had been burnt, casting a charcoal hue across a vast swathe of the landscape. It appeared to be wildfire related to me, but then again, I don’t have the knowledge of the land management systems here to really make that call. Whatever the cause, it looked spectacular.
Dreamscape
Further up, and I reach the Three Brethren, a trio of imposing hilltop cairns. I sit, take a break and enjoy the expansive panorama.
Onwards, and there is just one more climb to make, up to the top of Brown Knowe (523m). Having not seen anybody since Galshiels, it feels remote, adventurous and breathtaking.
I walk just a little further until I find a nice little grassy patch beside a gate. As I set up camp I reflect that my body is feeling great after the most physical day yet, no doubt helped by the sheer enjoyment of it all. I have been reminded again just why I love doing this so much.
This article was originally published on The Trek which can be found here.
Ahhh – so the Three Brethren are actually dry stone cairns! I thought they may have been standing stones… the history behind their creation must be amazing! Love the eerie atmosphere of that burnt landscape and grey sky, sun glowing ominously xx