Category: Scottish National Trail

Total distance: 8.5km

I am underway! What a feeling it is to get started after all the preparation and planning. Happiness and a sigh of relief. The tension of actually getting to the starting point is over.

It was an easy enough trip. Train to the town of Tweedbank. Wait half an hour. Bus to the town of Kelso. Wait 49 minutes. Wait another 60 minutes because somehow I didn’t manage to board the bus even though I was waiting in the right spot and saw it pull up and leave. Ha! No wonder I get stressed about the actual travel part! Board the bus when it comes back and travel to the Plough Inn in Town Yetholm. Straight into my room, and thanks very much! I’ve arrived!

Beautiful old church at Kirk Yetholm whose bells were chiming for the half past the hour

Then it was walk time! Filling in a little section from the town to the border between Scotland and England. For those that are unsure about it, I’m walking the Scottish National Trail, a non-signposted walk (but made up of lots of smaller signposted walks) which runs the length of Scotland, south to north. The total distance of the trail is about 865km.

The track from Kirk Yetholm out to the border

This was an out and back job, and suprisingly hilly for my first look at the trail! It was however, incredibly beautiful. Huge, open vistas around rolling mountains. Stone walls, sheep and church bells toiling. If this is a taste of what is to come, this is going to be amazing.

Nothing more exciting than following a track to an unknown destination

Celebrating being at the border and the start of the walk

The old stone wall that separates England from Scotland

Whilst I was walking I thought about my goals for this trip. They are:

1. Take it easy. That sounds like it should be a breeze right? Well, I find it difficult. I’m usually the sort of hiker that races along through the day in order to get to my intended camp spot early so I can rest up. With these ultra long Scottish days (the sun is setting at 8.30pm or so), I want to spend more time out enjoying it. Not necessarily going further. Just….smelling the roses so to speak, as I go.
2. Master Scotland’s wild camping laws. You can walk and camp anywhere in Scotland within reason. As an Australian, I’m finding this concept hard to get my head around. Our long distance hiking trails are all set up so there is a designated camp spot that is intended as the place everybody stays. Often, we are actually not allowed to camp outside that designated spot. So just wandering around Scotland, picking campsites at random as I go, is definitely a foreign concept. I’m quite a timid person, and I’m not sure how I’ll go with the confidence needed to make those decisions. Hopefully, I’ll be fine.
3. Romance. Haha! Why not? I do live on an extremely small island after all! Honestly, I think I am more likely to finish the trail than I am of encountering romance, but hey, doesn’t hurt to include it as a goal!
4. Be constantly checking in with myself about my enjoyment levels. The last few hikes I’ve done I have encountered absolutely terrible, dangerous weather conditions. I just want to make sure I am reminding myself that this is a holiday, and there are other options if the weather isn’t playing nice.

So, that’s it. The real deal starts tomorrow. And I can’t wait!

The name of my room. I’ve tried to look up what it might mean, without success. It does absolutely appeal to my Aussie sense of humour however!

England and Scotland border marker

This article was originally posted on The Trek which you cann read here

“Oh my god! Imagine my surprise when I realised I am leaving tonight! And not tomorrow!”

Urgent message to my support crew

And so it was that I commenced, in a not so auspicious start, my much anticipated trip to Scotland and an attempt to tackle the Scottish National Trail.

Despite the obvious pleasure of embarking my aircraft on the correct day, the flight was….well….unpleasant. 23 hours, give or take. I had, in what I had assumed was a stroke of brilliance, nabbed myself a window seat in an aisle of two. Just one stranger to negotiate the tricky bathroom breaks with. Easy.

Not easy. The stranger was, without doubt, the world record holder for deep sleeping on a plane. Head bobbing forward, sideways, all over my shoulder. Tray table down and covered in paraphernalia. Each time I woke her was like unfreezing a cryogenic body. A polite tap. A bit of a shake. Pushing, shoving and shouting “Excuse me!”. The confusion at being re-animated. The sitting and waiting whilst she took in her surrounds. The clearing of the tray table. It becomes obvious. Drinking is not an option. Better to become parched than wake this one more than is absolutely necessary!

I’ve been in Scotland now for the same amount of time I was on the plane. 23 hours. Different story. Edinburgh is amazing. Getting through customs couldn’t be easier. Public transport to my accommodation, a breeze. Finding my apartment, a little bit trickier, though a friendly local pointed me in the right direction quick as a flash.

The rather unobtrusive entry to my apartment

What to say about the city? It is beautiful, ornate and amazing. The juxtaposition between old and new, blending together so harmoniously, to create an atmosphere of culture and creativity. Blessed with glorious weather, today was a day for stretching the legs and thoroughly enjoying my surroundings. I’ll let the pictures do the talking.

Acclimatizing a little before bed, old and new combining so seamlessly

Edinburgh Castle. Symbol of Scottish pride, perched atop the basalt core of an extinct volcano and sheltered by cliffs on three sides, this castle has played an important role in Scottish affairs for hundreds of years. I turned up before opening and had the old beauty to myself.

Sleepy city view from the castle. In contrast to my jet-lagged 5.30am, the city didn’t seem to wake up till a very respectable 10am.

Site of the writers museum, tucked down a little laneway and housed in a mansion constructed in 1622

Colourful Victoria St (named after the Queen) shone like a little jewel amongst the old stone buildings

What may be my favourite memorial in the world. The most loyal of boys, Bobbie, has been commemorated for being a good boy. When his owner perished in 1858, Bobbie was found a few days later sitting on his grave, a vigil he reportedly maintained until his death 14 years later. I love that the Scottish community recognises this special bond.

The little mate, Bobby

Pinky hues at Canongate Kirk

Canongate Kirk. Founded in 1688 and completed in 1691. And looking super with popping red doors.

The ruins of St Anthony’s chapel. Although these remains have existed since the 14th century, I was shocked ( but not surprised) to see people climbing them in order to nab a photo. Makes me sad.

A spectacular field of beautiful, but invasive, gorse

The climb up to Arthurs Seat. I got my first taste of the “walk anywhere within reason” rules of the Scots. There were people and tracks everywhere. I thoroughly enjoyed wandering over those green hills and it made me so excited for the walk to come!

Enjoying the Scottish sunshine. All jumpers off and I even got a bit burnt! I really hope this is a good weather omen for the whole trip

Spectacular views of Edinburgh

Finishing my walk at a classic old Scottish pub, the Royale. The food didn’t quite match the plushness of the surroundings. But my Bloody Mary was banging.

The iconic Scotts monument at sunrise. It definitely pays to get out and explore early.

This article was originally posted on The Trek which you can read here