Day 28 – Spalding to Whistling Trig – 26.8km

Total Distance – 514.7km

A Heysen Trail Story

I’m lying in my tent watching dozens of huge wind turbines languidly spin. It’s mesmerising. This afternoon they are turning ever so slowly, which I am truely grateful for.

Bit of a tough day it’s fair to say. Though the start was great! I absolutely loved the Spalding Hotel. Chatting with a small group of colourful locals, mainly about Norfolk Island. Upon discovering I was a ranger, one of the ladies asked me “So what are you dealing with over there? Foxes? Rabbits?”. I replied “No. Mainly rats”. To which she, no word of a lie, almost starting dry retching. A woman of my own heart.

And my bed! Flannelette sheets and a great thick doona. It definitely made it very difficult to get up this morning.

But I had to get going. I had a long walk and no real plan for where I might stop. Packed extra water, just in case. And off I went.

The first part of the day was once again following the aquaduct, which I really enjoyed. It gave me a chance to have a think….what was I going to do tonight?

The whistling trig has a really bad reputation as a campsite. Rocky, not flat. But the main problem is the wind. They don’t have a wind farm right next door for nothing. So the advice from many previous walkers is to avoid camping here. Stay on the roadside further to the north. Or go past and walk to the road further south. Neither of these sites appeals to me. Just camped right next to the road like that. But if I had to I had to. And that was that.

It’s all got me feeling a little….anxious. I left the aquaduct and started on a moderately short road walk, noticing that ominous, dark clouds were forming on the hills. The wind was still bitterly cold.

Leaving the road, the track follows a long fenceline adjacent to an old stone walk. As per usual, it takes in all the high points. Just as I got underway with it, down came the rain. Quite heavy rain at that. It turned what was an unpleasantly cold day, into an absolutely freezing one.

I reached the road where many have suggested finding a campsite. But it was so muddy and wet that the better idea seemed to be to just keep walking. At least that was doing something to help keep me warm. That, and I could see the smallest glimmer of blue sky further along the track.

A couple of kilometers later I reached the trig. And I was so glad I had continued on. The sky was clearing and the wind was mild. I could deal with that. I threw up the tent, ditched my wet clothes and shoes and ensconced myself inside, warming up and drying out. It really helped to be able to have a quick chat with the head of my support crew and his family. Stability and reassurance in what had seemed a very crazy day.

I’m still in my tent, but I have all the doors open. It’s the most incredible view. The sun is about to set behind distant mountains. There is a flock of sheep grazing nearby. And the wind turbines slowly turn and turn. I feel a great sense of relief that it all worked out so wonderfully. And immense satisfaction. That a really quite trying situation, has been turned so completely around.

I shouldn’t speak too soon. The sheep are coming my way….