Day 43 – Kapunda to Greenock Oval – 18.43km (Plus a rest day in Kapunda)

Total Distance – 768.6km

A Heysen Trail Story

I enjoyed Kapunda. Beautiful little town with lovely architectural buildings and churches, great little art gallery, and pubs galore.

I stayed at the Sir John Franklin Hotel last night. The rooms seem to be getting more and more….quaint. This one had no bathroom, but did have a little washing basin. I assume so the men could shave back in the day. I turned the tap on. The water ran copper, then clear, then black, then clear. I decided to get my water elsewhere.

Like many of the pubs before this one, the female bathroom was located right at the far extreme of the accommodation area, and consisted of one toilet with a door that didn’t close properly. Next door was a separate shower room, with a cracked sliding shower screen and small sink squeezed in next to it. When I jumped in the shower, the low pressure spray went everywhere but down. Not particularly satisfying.

I mention this because I was lying in bed in the middle of the night needing to go. The thought of trudging to the bathroom was both preventing me from getting up, and from going back to sleep. I hit on an idea. The male bathroom was much more central. In fact, it was right next door to me. There was hardly anyone here. I’d just duck in there and go.

Decision made, I got up and stumbled next door. To receive the shock and surprise of my life. I rubbed my sleepy eyes. This couldn’t be right. Because here was a gleaming, large bathroom. Three or four huge shower cubicles. Glistening tiles. Sparkling chrome showerheads. A toilet door that worked. Hand towels at all the basins. A little bowl of soaps at the sink. “What the hell!?” I breathed to myself.

I thought back to all the “female” bathrooms I had been in on my pub tour. The location of each. How dilapidated and unkept many of them seemed. Is this just a “thing”? I understand that pubs were primarily the domain of males back in the day. But really? A little modern day spruce up wouldn’t hurt.

Again, not the greatest scenery for walking again today. The 19km went by very quickly on roads, along paddock creeks and fencelines. I reached the Greenock Oval by 1pm. A popular spot for caravanners – but who can blame them. Just $5 to stay the night, with a free bbq, toilets and cold shower. Can’t complain about that.

I’m keen to set up quickly and enjoy my afternoon. Head to the local brewery and get a light beer. Everything went smoothly. That is, until I tried to put the fly on the tent. And realised I must have left four of my pegs back at the Kapunda Caravan Park. That’ll teach me for sending my spares home.

I wasn’t quite sure what to do. Bad weather predicted to be on the way. Possible hail. Nothing available in the general store. If I ordered it today would it reach Tanunda by tomorrow? In the end I decided to get the taxi, travel 8km to the closest Mitre 10, get pegs, and taxi back. Cost of the pegs – $5.40. Cost of the taxi – $36.10. And the pegs are much heavier than the ones I lost. That’ll teach me. But I feel good about being able to secure my tent for the next few days. I’ll get some lighter ones sent further on. I feel like I’m doing my best to keep Australia Post solvent.

But I’m at the Brewery now, and enjoying a light English bitter. Jazz is playing on the speakers and it’s a sunny afternoon. Things definitely aren’t all bad…