Day 5 – Red Range Camp site to Mayo Hut – 18.2km

Total distance – 111.2km

A Heysen Trail story

Well. It’s fair to say it was a sleepless night. The wind howled like a banshee through the hills all night. The trees eager to answer it’s wicked call.

My tent was miraculously, fairly protected. But that didn’t prevent forceful gusts from slamming the ramparts regularly. All a bit frightening when it’s literally freezing cold. To bed I wore my beanie, socks, merino longs, merino singlet, merino long sleeved top, fleece jumper, and, puffy. And my dud of a sleeping bag. Can’t wait to get rid of it. Seriously.

Walking today commenced with a long creek bed walk. Nice and sandy, so fairly easy walking. Ephemeral pools attracting flying insect life. The breeze was bitterly cold, and a large, dark cloud lurked ominously in the background.

I spent much of the day thinking about my mouse phobia. I’ve joked about it a lot on this blog. But the fact is that it is actually very debilitating. Especially for someone interested in long distance hiking. I don’t think many people understand the absolutely abject feeling of terror that strikes. And that the fear can be the difference between a good and bad decision. Potentially life threatening decision. When it comes down to it.

In a funny way, having both my sleeping bag and tent break down unexpectedly has forced my hand in this regard. Tonight I will be staying at Mayo Hut. And I’ve decided rain, hail or shine, I’m sleeping inside. I’m more than uncomfortable with this decision. But can’t help thinking that maybe this is the reason that both of my big ticket items broke down so unceremoniously in the first week. To propel me to conquer my fear. Tonight I take my first steps….

The river walking makes way for a short, but most welcome, ridge walk. The hills are absolutely carpeted with a small, yellow flowering bush. The scenery is impressive. I spot a group of hairy goats off in the distance. No doubt up to no good.

I use the turnstile to leave Arkaba. It’s back to more creek walking. This time the creek is immensely wide. And much more rocky than the previous creek had been. The opportunity to twist an ankle is there at every step. Rather than walk linearly, I zigzag back and forth, trying to pick out the least hazardous way forward.

And then I arrive at Mayo hut. The superstar of the day! What a gorgeous little place. First constructed in 1899 and sitting pretty amongst a vast and comparatively desolate wilderness. A gang of 20 cockatoos either shriek a welcome or a warning at my arrival.

Inside is a stone floor, bunks and benches and a lovely big table where I’m sitting writing this now. I’ve got my pj’s on, a cup of hot mocha in hand, and the fireplace is gently glowing with warm embers. I feel so very lucky to be nice and toasty inside whilst the bitter wind rages.

Soon it will get dark. And that’s when my fear will start. But today, no choice but to live with it. And keep the comforting fire ablaze. That’s important I think. Time to go and collect some more firewood…..