Day 6 – Mayo Hut to Hawker via the Yourambulla Ranges – 30.22km

Total Distance – 140km

A Heysen Trail story

Can you guess what happened? You can, can’t you? There were NO mice! Or, at least none that I heard. Tucked up as I was. Nice and warm in the heat of the fire. Stone wall solid against my back. I had the best sleep of the trip so far, and woke up feeling relaxed and ready…And smugly proud of myself. Even though some could argue that since I never heard a mouse….just give me the win, ok?

Today was a walk in three separate parts. The first of which was a 10km long creek walk out to the highway. Much to my delight, there was a semi-formed track up on the lefthand bank. It was a still morning. The dreaded wind had died off during the night, however, a grey pall remained with mist on the mountains.

The “track” snaked it’s way through large expanses of salty chenopods, and spiky Acacia. Salsola kali was everywhere. In full blossom, with an interesting flower, just waiting to become a spindly tumbleweed laying this whole paddock to waste with spiny burrs.

The smaller Euros were replaced with magnificent Red Kangaroos, their pelts glistening in the scant morning sunshine. After watching one bound out of my way, I couldn’t help but say out loud “That. Is. Fucking awesome”. The absolute ease in which they navigate through this country is just natural selection at it’s best. I tripped on a rock as I said it…

Eventually I reached the main road. There is a choice to be made here. Walk the 7km into town and be done for the day. But come back later and complete this section. Or walk the Yourambulla range, and then do a 7km walk into town. But continue on your merry way at the completion of your town stay.

I chose the later. My reasons. My bag had little food left in it, so was comparatively light. And the wind was holding off which would be ideal for the ridge walk. And so the second phase of walking commenced.

It starts with a long, straight walk along a paddock fenceline. All the while the ranges becoming larger and larger as you approach. There’s a small hill scramble, and then you’re on the ridge! The view is unbelievable. On one side, vast yellow plains that taper off into mountains in the distance. Mountains that I had walked past that very morning. The town of Hawker is also visible. And seems rather far away from this angle.

On the other side, a verdant green field with a looming mountain range directly adjacent to it. It is incredible. And so the ridge walk commences. Scrambling over the rocky outcrop and looking for the least hazardous way forward. I am intensely glad that I made the decision to go whilst the wind was good. I don’t think there’s any shame in saying that it can feel a bit daunting up there all by yourself. Just a little bit concerning. Fun though.

Eventually you begin to drop. And here the scrambling really starts to commence. Patience is the key. Though the mental battle can be a struggle, knowing that the longer it is taking, the longer it is going to be before you get to your room for a rest and shower.

I reach the bottom and have a break. River walking, ridge walking and road walking are the big three in terms of foot and ankle problems. So it’s a hard day on the feet. A car pulls up and I chat to a couple of folks about what I have been doing. They are nervous about going up to a lookout not far up the hill. I encourage them to go. It’s worth it for the view. And not too difficult to get to that point. They set off.

And I think “If only they were just finishing the walk now, I might have got a ride into Hawker…” Not to be. I slung my pack on, and set off on the 7km road walk into town. Phase 3.

As I’ve said in many of my previous blogs, road walks after you have been on tracks all day can be pretty hard. Both mentally and physically. Knowing this I had left an ace up my sleeve. My music. Unlike many others that I see walking with their headphones on all the time, I generally walk without it. I save my music exclusively for tough times. For times such as this.

On the tunes go at full blast. And instantly my mood is uplifted. I’m flying down that road, prancing and singing at the top of my lungs. The time really does go very quickly. The couple pass me just as we are both about to get into town. They had watched me belting along. Had stopped just to make sure I was good. That was very kind of them, And I was good. I skipped into town shortly after.

To a bed at the Hawker hotel motel. A little bit dated, but exactly what you expect of an outback motel. The pub dinner was absolutely fabulous. Big, fat rissoles with piles of steaming mash, roasted vegies and slathered in an onion sauce. Just what the doctor ordered.

Back in the room I threw all the extra blankets on the bed and plumped up the pillows. This was going to be good. And the very best thing? That after a day that was so very, very good, I spoke to the head of my support crew, and it turned out that that conversation was the absolute best part of the day. How good is that!