Great South West Walk, Day 4 – Fitzroy Camp to Moleside camp, 22km

I struggle a bit today.  I think it’s the bush.  Don’t get me wrong, the bush is beautiful, black, green, yellow, pink and orange, but I’m struggling with the…..sameness of it.

There are a couple of moments today which I really do enjoy.  For a little while we break out of the bush and walk along a fenceline protecting a verdant green paddock, full of cows.  In the distance, mountain ranges are visible along with two vegetation types.  The coastal swamp of the Glenelg River and what looks to be a plantation right alongside.

I also enjoy “The Inkpot”.  A little lake, black as night with tannins,  surrounded by a circle of white sand, like eyeshadow. 

The campsite is the real reward for the day.  Right next to Bochara (the Glenelg River), my campsite sits on a lush, green lawn and overlooks the slowly moving water.  Kangaroos and wallabies graze contently, seemingly oblivious to my human presence.  Blue fairy wrens flit about the camp, also unafraid and happy to make themselves known.

I’m the only one at the campsite for now, and it is supremely peaceful.  I sit on the jetty and dangle my poor feet into the cool of the river, enjoying the simple pleasure of a Cheesestik on corn chips.  The reflections are beautiful, and a large flock of birds that I haven’t yet been able to identify fly up and down, like the river is a runway. 

The rest is doing me some good.  In my head I’ve made a change of plans for tomorrow.  I had been going to stay at Battersby campsite, about 17km away and then do a really long day into Nelson the following day.  Instead, I’m thinking of going to Pattensens camp tomorrow.  I’m intrigued by it.  Elle had done half of the walk previously, and when I asked her which was the best campsite, she had immediately responded “Pattensens”.  It’ll mean a longer day for me, more than 30km, but I figure this will be offset by a shorter day into Nelson and more time to rest at my accommodation.  A win all round!  The problem is, that it is supposed to be raining pretty much all day, and 30km in the rain isn’t much fun.  We’ll see I guess.

I kick back with my animal friends, and enjoy the colours of the river as the day moves to dusk. After some lovely contemplation time on the jetty, I emerge to see an array of wildlife.  Firstly, a man.  “Tinkling” obliviously onto the grass in the park in front of the jetty.  He looks up, sees me, startles and then does these things in order.  Waves to me, pulls up his pants, grimaces / smiles sheepishly, waves again, gets in his car, drives off. 

I move to the campsite, wary now.  Disturb a herd of around 30 wallabies and kangaroos loitering on the lawn.  This I can deal with. Satisfied after dinner, I don my torch in the fading light.  And see an army of gleaming red eyes slithering down the tree trunks and plonking onto the ground.  Possums.  And many of them! They maurade around the campsite, offering their “friendly” companionship.  I know I’m alone drinking my hot chocolate mate….but I don’t really need you to sit up at the table with me!

I go to bed dreaming of a peaceful night’s sleep.