Not a great deal to tell today. Basically it was all about getting from one town to another. Scenery average and pretty much all on roads. Still, it was flat and the kilometers passed quickly.
I reached Tanunda by 11.30am and stopped in at a lovely cafe for brunch. At some point in the future I’m going to have to begin curtailing what I order, but at the moment I can just go for it. I have a large chocolate milkshake, a vegetarian burger with a side of potato slices, huge chai tea and a lemon curd tart. Filled the spot.
Heading towards the town of TanundaBecause who doesn’t love a swing bridge
The pub were generous enough to allow me to get into my room early. It mightn’t be the most luxurious bathroom I’ve ever been in, but my little ensuite feels like an absolute treat.
The atmosphere in town is one of excitement! One of the Adelaide AFL teams is playing in a preliminary final tonight and all the venues are expecting big crowds. I decide to book into one of fancier restaurants in town and treat myself to a non pub meal. Enjoy the quiet whilst I can. And later, I’ll see. Sometimes the best attitude is, “If you can’t beat ’em, join ’em!”.
I enjoyed Kapunda. Beautiful little town with lovely architectural buildings and churches, great little art gallery, and pubs galore.
I stayed at the Sir John Franklin Hotel last night. The rooms seem to be getting more and more….quaint. This one had no bathroom, but did have a little washing basin. I assume so the men could shave back in the day. I turned the tap on. The water ran copper, then clear, then black, then clear. I decided to get my water elsewhere.
Like many of the pubs before this one, the female bathroom was located right at the far extreme of the accommodation area, and consisted of one toilet with a door that didn’t close properly. Next door was a separate shower room, with a cracked sliding shower screen and small sink squeezed in next to it. When I jumped in the shower, the low pressure spray went everywhere but down. Not particularly satisfying.
I mention this because I was lying in bed in the middle of the night needing to go. The thought of trudging to the bathroom was both preventing me from getting up, and from going back to sleep. I hit on an idea. The male bathroom was much more central. In fact, it was right next door to me. There was hardly anyone here. I’d just duck in there and go.
Decision made, I got up and stumbled next door. To receive the shock and surprise of my life. I rubbed my sleepy eyes. This couldn’t be right. Because here was a gleaming, large bathroom. Three or four huge shower cubicles. Glistening tiles. Sparkling chrome showerheads. A toilet door that worked. Hand towels at all the basins. A little bowl of soaps at the sink. “What the hell!?” I breathed to myself.
I thought back to all the “female” bathrooms I had been in on my pub tour. The location of each. How dilapidated and unkept many of them seemed. Is this just a “thing”? I understand that pubs were primarily the domain of males back in the day. But really? A little modern day spruce up wouldn’t hurt.
Again, not the greatest scenery for walking again today. The 19km went by very quickly on roads, along paddock creeks and fencelines. I reached the Greenock Oval by 1pm. A popular spot for caravanners – but who can blame them. Just $5 to stay the night, with a free bbq, toilets and cold shower. Can’t complain about that.
Looking back towards KapundaDefinitely getting into the Barossa now if all these grape vines are any indication.
I’m keen to set up quickly and enjoy my afternoon. Head to the local brewery and get a light beer. Everything went smoothly. That is, until I tried to put the fly on the tent. And realised I must have left four of my pegs back at the Kapunda Caravan Park. That’ll teach me for sending my spares home.
I wasn’t quite sure what to do. Bad weather predicted to be on the way. Possible hail. Nothing available in the general store. If I ordered it today would it reach Tanunda by tomorrow? In the end I decided to get the taxi, travel 8km to the closest Mitre 10, get pegs, and taxi back. Cost of the pegs – $5.40. Cost of the taxi – $36.10. And the pegs are much heavier than the ones I lost. That’ll teach me. But I feel good about being able to secure my tent for the next few days. I’ll get some lighter ones sent further on. I feel like I’m doing my best to keep Australia Post solvent.
But I’m at the Brewery now, and enjoying a light English bitter. Jazz is playing on the speakers and it’s a sunny afternoon. Things definitely aren’t all bad…
We are always running for the thrill of it, thrill of it
Always pushing up the hill, searching for the thrill of it
On and on and on we’re calling out, out again
Never looking down, I’m just in awe of what’s in front of me
Walking on a Dream, Empire of the Sun
I felt really inspired this morning. I had my music on for the first time in a long time. The sun was shining for the first time in days. I was walking along a ridgetop with inspiring views on either side. Like a solar charged battery I felt myself getting stronger and stronger. I sang out loud and felt invincible and free.
View from the ridgeWalking on a dream
And in this moment I wanted to test myself. See how far I had come. What I could do. I decided that if I reached the next campgound, in around 22 kilometres time, and I was feeling good, I would continue on to Kapunda. A long day, but doable. I picked up my pace and set off.
I made the decision that I was just going to go for it not long afterwards. I just felt so damn good. Floating, as Pierre would say. And there would be some great rewards. My tent was absolutely saturated from the dewy morning. I could set up at the caravan park, grab a hot shower and a feed, dry my tent out in the morning while cafe dining, wash my clothes, and then walk the kilometer to get to my pub hotel room for the evening. Decision made.
And so I went for it. To be fair, it was a good day for going such a distance. Not fantastic scenery and relatively flat. It was easy to fang it. I got to the campground by 1pm and was happy with my decision. Whilst it was lovely and treed, the whole site was on a rather steep slope. Time to keep on keeping on.
Canola fields still impressSloping camp site
In the end I completed the almost 37km fairly easily. I arrived at the campground by 4pm. A slight hobble, but pretty much no worse for wear than any other day. And a steamy hot shower definitely made it all worth it. Pizza at the pub and a great sleep on a flat campsite the icing on the cake.
And today? I feel absolutely fine. Which I am rather shocked about. It’s like I’ve become a bit of a superhuman. Just through walking. It’s bizzare and brilliant. How I wish I could always feel like this. A goal to aspire to I suppose.
In the meantime, I’ll just keep enjoying this amazing experience and being grateful for all it is doing for me.
The big news today is in the title. 40 days I’ve been doing this now. And I’ve travelled over 700km. 700km on foot. It’s actually kind of hard to take in. Doesn’t seem real somehow. But I have the signs to prove it!
700km! Can you believe that!
This morning a thick blanket of fog covered the campsite. Tents dripping. It stayed fairly overcast for most of the day. But for just a little while this afternoon, beautiful sunshine. What a simple pleasure.
It was a long day comparatively. And not one of the best in terms of scenery. Pleasant though, passing through many nature corridors between paddocks.
Take it when you can I guess….Yellowing paddock
The highlight of the day was a lunch stop at the park at Marabel. It was full of fascinating information about the towns history, all displayed on tiles, which, when pieced together displayed many beautiful artworks. It was such a lovely feature in such a small town. A town which, it became clear, was very famous for it’s legendary rodeos.
Beautiful and informative works of art on tilesCurio. The legendary rodeo horse.
The second highlight was the little hut itself. Set on a hill side with amazing views. There are 5 of us here tonight! Cath and Greg. And two section hikers, getting back into the hobby after a 12 year absence. In the glittery sunshine it’s an easy decision for me to camp. In fact, we all decide to.
There are a group of sheep making a huge ruckus and grazing near the tent. It would be quite idyllic if I wasn’t watching one of them regurgitating right outside my house. Come on mate! Why right there? I suppose it’s their home more than mine. I’m just an interloper.
The sun is making the tent really warm and cosy, so after a long day’s walk I think I’ll lie down and have a little read. Perfect.
Tent with a viewSunset…but I didn’t take a photo of the hut!
What a treat last night was. Cath and Greg’s friend, John, had bought along a bottle of 2012 Laughing Magpie red and a block of chocolate. Both of which they generously shared with me. So kind.
Again I think about how lucky I have been to have Cath and Greg (and all their friends!) for company. It really has changed the trajectory of my walk for the better. I’m not certain how much longer we’ll be walking together for. The upcoming section is logistically tricky, with many options available. It’ll be very interesting to see how it all pans out. Regardless, I couldn’t have asked for better walking companions. Many good conversations have been had. And I haven’t had to get the headphones on and dance around to ward off the spooks at an isolated campground once!
It was a magical little day of walking today. No sign of any sunshine, but the wind died off and there was no rain, allowing the opportunity just to slow down a bit. Take things in.
Who thinks a magpie might live here?
Essentially the walk followed a wildlife corridor. Mountains to the left and glowing canola fields to the right. Giant windfarm propellers spun lazily in the distance. Birdlife was plentiful. Galahs screetching and kurrawongs chorasing. I enjoyed all the chatter.
Canola farm with wind propellers in the distanceOminous cloud bank…didn’t produce any rainWhat’s not to smile about?Mountain range that I walked beside
The walk finished with a sharp, but small uphill section through bushland and over rocky scree. I settle into my tent for an afternoon of planning and reading. Absolutely thrilled that it is not bitterly cold outside. It’s a really pleasant way to end a lovely day.Â
Hilly slope
I then climbed to the top of Smith Hill for sunset. I must have been so engrossed and still that a rather large kangaroo must have mistook me for a tree. He came loping over and stood right beside me, looking out as well. I turned slowly, and he startled. We acknowledged each other for a while, before he quietly slunk away. I enjoyed watching the sunset with him. It was certainly a good one.
Chilly, chilly, chilly last night. We got a warming, occassionally smoky fire going in the beautiful old fire place. However, it made little difference to the overall night chills. A warm night would be very pleasant indeed.
Close up of the hut with the old stone fireplace on the right.
As would a day without sleet like rain and lashings of wind. How I long for a stroll on a gleaming spring day. Sun warming the body and spirits. Today wasn’t that day.
Which is a bit of a shame really, because the walk was really wonderful. Straight through the guts of a farm, wonderfully treed along the creekline. Stony mountains on the left hand side. A canola farm in the distance radiates summer. The reality is stinging rain and cold fog.
Approaching the canola farmWalking the outskirts.Magical coloursClose up of the crops
Up through a granitic pass, the rain dies off causing chattering finches and crooning magpie larks to celebrate. The bushland is old and well preserved. A shelter from the wind.
The granitic pass
The second part of the day follows a little used dirt road adjacent to farmland and eucalypts. Lovely, easy walking. Until right at the end, a steep hill rises to camp. I climb it quickly, hopeful that finally, finally, finally I might be able to make that birthday phone call. And sure enough, success!
I spend my afternoon in the tent chatting with the head of my support crew and making plans. Kind of getting too the pointy end of the stick now. And the proximity to Adelaide means bookings become more necessary.
It’s a nice way to spend the afternoon on a chilly day. Cath and Greg have another friend, John, camping with them tonight. So it’s time for all of us to brave the elements and see about our dinners!
It was a really lovely day of walking. One of the more interesting in recent times. The only thing I could think about though was getting to a high point. Getting reception. And making a birthday call. Despite my best intentions though, it never happened. Not enough 4G reception all day to make a call. And with that, my entry into “worst girlfriend of the year” is sealed. It’s a low point.
I’m trying not to dwell on it though. I tried my best. Can’t do more than that. Time to take my own advice and concentrate on the walk.
After a dull start to the day, a short creek walk followed by a stint next to the highway, the track got into some much more interesting country. Small bush tracks and unused roads making their way through mallee scrub and gorge-like creek beds. The prickly mimosa was in flower, it’s sweet scent wafting through the air.
Gorge like creek walkingLovely rocky section of the creek
Over a hill and into an open valley. The ever present wind is back today. Brisk and cold. The watery sun does little to take the chill out of the air.
Heading towards the hills
A fenceline provides a guide for moving between one range and another. Golden fields of canola shine like sunbeams in the distance. Resplendent against the irridescent green.
Golden fields of canola
The final hill is the largest of the day. Rocky and steep. I check my phone one last time. No dice. There will be no birthday phone call today. A sleet like squall moves in. Vanquishing what would have been amazing views. The cold droplets ensure little time can be spent sightseeing.
View at the top just before the rain hitThe little hut can be seen in the distance
The hut is in sight though. Miraculously lit up by the sun amongst these clouds. Promising comfort from the harsh weather. It’s solid structure provides a modicum of relief. The rain stops, but the wind continues to rage. It’ll be a chilly one tonight.
Clouds sweeping over Huppatz Hut. Not far now!
“Wishing you a very happy birthday Aubs. Thinking of you and wishing so much that I could just say hello. I miss you. xxx”
I’m feeling rather sad. Deflated. The big things on the horizon for the head of my support crew eventuated today. A life changing moment. AND, it’s his birthday tomorrow. But here I am at World’s End with no reception. No way to talk to him. Messaging through my Garmin just doesn’t seem adequate for this moment. Yet that’s the best I can do. It makes me sad. Homesick in a way I haven’t felt yet since I’ve been here. Chalk it up to one of those moments I guess. He’d be the first one to tell me we’ll talk when we can and that’s that. Still. I feel like I’ve really let him down. Let us down. That I’m not there to celebrate this moment with him.
I’ll take a walk around in a minute and see if I can get a bar or two. I’m not hopeful though. But maybe technology will come through for me! We’ll see.
A rather severe change in weather was expected today. 31 degrees yesterday to just 13 today. And rain to boot. I’d also been told a couple of times previously that todays walk was one of the worst of the entire length. Nothing to see at all. So it was very difficult leaving my comfortable Burra cottage this morning.
But the show must go on. I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed it. Just a light drizzle up until lunchtime. And although it was mainly roadwalking, the scenery on both sides was great. Mountainous on one side. Green pastures on the other. Grey clouds highlighting the brilliance of the colours.
A drizzly dayView to the horizonMountains to the right of me
The day went quickly, on account of the rain. Stopping for lengthy periods is not high on the agenda. So although it was a relatively long day, I arrived at the walkers camp by 2pm.
Another old ruinThe grey day does make the colours really popRed rocks surround this mountain
The camp site wasn’t much chop. Very little tree cover, so no shelter. I decided to fill up on water and walk the extra 1.5km to the “free” camp for caravans and the like. Here there were toilets and bins at least. And a lot of people.
Cruising in with their vans. Back and forward. Back and forward again. And again. Trying to get the absolute perfect spot. The van closest to me has been moving in small increments since before I started writing this blog. It’s just one night. Park up already!
Whilst they’re stuffing around I might as well go for a wander and try and find a phone signal. I really, really want to have a chat!
Kind of at the halfway mark (well, a little bit over), so I thought I’d give a bit of an update on how my gear is going.
My gear has been doing it tough! The breakdowns –
Sea to Summit Flame 4 Sleeping Bag – We all know what happened here. The zipper broke on the first night. It has been returned for a full refund.
MSR Hubba Hubba Tent – Again, this we know. A joiner unglued (or broke) on the 3rd day. Another did the same about a week later. MSR sent replacement parts and the pole is now fixed. It took over 23 days though and was a real pain in the arse.
Leki Hiking Poles – 1 broken pole. My fault. Being uncoordinated the cause. I’ve been walking with a taped up pole for a while now. But have just ordered a replacement set to pick up in the next town. The new set is the Black Diamond brand and not as expensive.
Sea to Summit Aeos pillow – has developed a leak and needs to be blown up again during the night. I’ll live with that.
Sea to Summit waterproof bag – I use this for my electronics. One of the clips unscrewed itself. Not a biggie and I could probably fix it if I found a small enough screwdriver.
Mont Helium 450 sleeping bag – Yes. My new sleeping bag already has a small tear in the fabric. Not sure how. Woke up to a spray of feathers. Taped up for now.
Patagonia rain / wind jacket – sustained a tiny barbed wire wound when opening a gate. Taped up for now.
Altra Lone Peak shoes – Have been really good but have ordered a new pair to pick up in the next town in anticipation of an increase in road walking.
The mountain is in my rear view mirror and I’m fanging it into town. Sort of…..it’s really rocky”.
Message to my support crew
First things first. There were a number of devious crimes committed at the campsite last night. Heinous. Unwanted and unwarranted.
Peeping Toms. Can you believe that? Right out here? And not just one of them. Five of them! All lined up and gazing silently into Cath and Greg’s tent as they rested. Just….watching.
They were all young folk. Hell bent on nefarious activity. Their leader…the audacious number 729. A big guy, and brazen to boot. When discovered and called out, the leader summoned his gang. Paced about. Staring. The promise of violence in the air. They wanted in to this enclosure. And they didn’t want to take no for an answer.
After a classic stare off, us versus them, 729 decided enough was enough. And off they went. Disaster averted. Cath and Greg left with a creepy “spied on” feeling. Not nice.
729. Trouble maker.
It was a beautiful evening. Relatively warm and the stars blazing. We all retired. Happy in the knowledge we had a short day into town.
Crime number 2. Provocation with malicious intent. Fast asleep until bang, bang, whoosh, screeeetttchhh. A kooky galah. Crazed and dive bombing the tent before cackling it’s head off and flying away. Over and over again. I had thought the bird had chosen me as a target until the morning revealed Cath and Greg. Also slightly bleary eyed and also subjugated to the insane birds attacks. There must be something in the water around here…
The walk today started with a pleasant stroll through a garden of thistles before deviating towards the hills. Here we go again. I was so glad I hadn’t attempted to do this yesterday. Hard work. Hard, hard work. But with a great reward at the end! It helps keep the motivation high, and by lunchtime, I’ve reached Burra. Place of food and showers and washing clothes and an actual bed. I’m excited! And so are my clothes.
Looking back at the little campsite of planted trees with a thistle garden in front.Mountainous. Greg and Cath are tiny specks on the other side. I very nearly stepped on this poor fellow who was sun baking right on the track. He didn’t move. I went around.
Also, I’ve hit the 600km mark! Unbelievable. I’ll have a little review of how my gear (and I) are going tomorrow. But tonight is a night to enjoy my good fortunes. And relax.
