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K’gari (Fraser Island) Great Walk – Day 1

Dilli Village to Lake Benaroon – 15km, plus travel to the island

“So good to be back!”

I have visited Fraser Island – now called K’gari – many times over the years. The first was as a young girl, aged maybe 8 or 9, with my family. I remember travelling in an old, open air jeep named “Apache”. We flew through creeks, swam in lakes, rolled in sand dunes, and I remember feeling that this was one of the most exciting days of my young life! We visited a few times as a family.

Later, all grown up and at the ripe, old age of 20, I again visited the island – this time with my TAFE class. Advanced Certificate in Outdoor Guiding is what we were doing. It was an amazing course! We travelled all around the country side, and my love affair with hiking began with lessons in types of gear, how to pack a pack, and navigation. I remember thinking to myself “I would like to work here one day…”

One day arrived a few years later, when I began work as a tour guide for the then, newly established and completely environmentally innovative, Kingfisher resort. My god, I had a good time! It was a mecca for young folks, and we all rocked it!

So now, more than 20 years later I am back. And really excited to experience the place again.

I slept well and was up with my alarm. Iced coffee, sausage roll and a custard tart for brekky. Can’t beat it. I was able to easily hail the local taxi driver, who again re-iterated that it’s been amazingly busy. Folks travelling in their own backyard under the circumstances. Perhaps one positive to come out of Covid….

He dropped me at the ferry, and I was able to walk straight on board. There was Catherine! How nice to see a friendly face. Sadly, she let me know that Pauline was unable to make it with a medical problem. Hopefully she’ll get the all clear and be able to join her sister later in the week. I really felt for them both.

Arriving on the island we awaited the taxi service. Catherine walked the Bibbulman track a couple of years ago as a birthday present to herself. It was great to get her insights into it whilst we waited.

The taxi arrived and ferried us up the beach to Dilli Village, the start point of the walk. Here I said my goodbyes to Catherine. I only have 5 days here, whilst she had 8, so I am hustling a little faster than her.

I set off. The first 4km of track was through dry scrub, following a sand dune ridgeline to the top. A small side track enabled a view of a small sandblow.

The first stop of real significance was Lake Boomajin. I came across the walkers camp, looking all safe and secure fenced off from the local thugs, the dingoes. Nearby was a large, fenced, car camping area as well. I walked past both of these, hoping for a more secluded point of entry to the lake.

My wish was granted! What a view! Walking lakeside for a couple of km was fantastic. White sand, brown and purple stained lake, green reeds, patches of colour, little creeks, and wonderful aloneness. It was so good!

Eventually, I left the lake and recommenced forest walking. This time in forest with some extremely tall, large trees. Some areas had been burnt, others not. It was easy walking, mostly flat, and it wasn’t long before I arrived at my campsite.

Huh. No dingo fence. And no one else at the camp. This could be…interesting. There was big dingo boxes at each campsite, and I enjoyed setting up and just throwing everything in the box rather than the tent. Rain is expected tonight, so it should all stay nice and dry without impeding on my sleeping space!

Next up, a trip down to Lake Benaroon. Little bit windy, but beautiful and sunny. What’s a girl to do when there is no-one else around, but to strip off and plunge in the water! Oh so refreshing. And kind of naughty too. Can’t beat it.

I sat on the shore drying off and spent a pleasant few hours patrolling the lake shore and reading. I have to say, this is probably the most relaxed I’ve felt over the last couple of weeks. In the swing of it and just loving every second.

I returned to the lake on sunset. Nobody else arrived, so I have the place to myself. I have a wonderful time paddling and watching the refections change on the water. It is absolutely serene.

Later, up at the campsite, I hear it. The first menacing growl. Not a dingo, but thunder. The sky growls again and I can see clouds, dark and ominous, scudding on the horizon.

I hasten to finish my dinner and chores before the storm hits. Just as I’m finishing, the first heavy drop plops down. The sky flashes silver. It’s here.

I dive into my shelter and watch the sparks crackle across the sky. The tent lights up like a disco strobe inside. Rain pelts the roof and the sky roars. I feel utterly snug and safe – despite the co-threats of dingoes and an electrical storm. This I can handle. Rats, I cannot.

Cooloola Geat Walk – Day Five

Kauri Walkers Camp to Carlo Carpark – 14km

“Rat attack”

I did not sleep well. I always leave my bag outside, and am very careful about putting all my scraps in my Opsak bag (apparently no odour). However, I was lying in my bed trying restlessly to sleep when I heard a crinkle, crinkle. Snap on the torch. Nothing. But now I’m wired. I should have moved my bag inside. But I didn’t. Again with the restless sleeping. And again with the crinkle, crinkle. I sat bolt upright and looked outside. Nothing. Looked at my bag with the torch through the mesh, and holy mother of god there is a hole in the mesh! Those little….shits.

I moved the bag inside , but then had another problem…what if the rat had gone into the bag and now I had inadvertently transferred said rodent inside! I started sweating at the thought. And tossing and turning. And tossing and turning. There was no rodent. But I slept the sleep of a woman facing her worst fear. That is to say, I didn’t sleep well.

Packed up, I got away a little later than usual. Most of the group had already left before me.

Lovely track on the last day of the walk

As I walked I was thinking about the connections between the small group of people I had been walking with. Pauline, avid plant lover and horticulturist is friends with folks on Norfolk. I had drinks with one of them a couple of weeks ago. The sister, Catherine, self assured and also a horticulturist knows the mother of the two Greek sisters.

Travelling with the Greek sisters is Paul and Angela, who have bought plants from the nursery in Kyogle where Pauline works. They also walked the Great North Walk just before me, and I’m sure I remember seeing their names in the walkers logs. It was geat to reminisce about it all. Poor Andrew is the fifth in that group, whom I fear will find his walk story eclipsed by the fact that he forgot to bring the car keys with him for their ride home. They have a dinner booked at a 4 star restaurant – at 4.30pm – to celebate the finish of the walk…it all depends on whether they can break into the car or not. I really hope they made it…

Back on the walk, and I came upon Sophie and Lauren. Close to 30’s, this was their first long hike, and they had been doing extraordinarily well. Seeing the gear and excitment reminded me of me way back when. It was really cool. Both girls had big, hearty, joyous laughs, that made me smile more than once on hearing them at the campsites. They were a breath of fresh air after being camped alone for so long.

Anyway, I caught up to them, and this is the story that they told….

Lauren was lying in bed and thought that Sophie was “strangely caressing my arm”. Sophie asked “Did you just touch my foot?”. “No!”. “OMG – there’s something in the tent!”. That something turned out to be a rat.

An emergency conference was held outside the tent, and a cunning plan devised. Using blocking tunnels, lolly food lures and pure balls, they would extradite this rat from the tent! If this had been me, I would have been a piddling mess, moaning in a heap in the dirt. These girls used their wits and humour to defeat the beast. I think both will be long distance hikers for life.

Sophie and Lauren – outwitted the rat, and likely hikers for life

After hearing this story and feeling both enormously bemused and horrified, I moved on. The majority of us met up a Lake Poona, a beautiful little spot that would have been great for a swim…if only it wasn’t so cold and we were all itching for town.

Carlo sandblow was the final feature of the walk. It was a weird ending. It’s a long weekend in QLD and the sandblow was crawling with people come to visit. It felt confronting, after all that solitude, to see so many people. I took a couple of snaps and quickly left.

Carlo sandblow – no pristine sand here. Check out all the tracks!

And then I finished the walk! There was no fanfare. I didn’t even take a photo – there was so many people around. I saw Paul and Angela and the gang and wished them well. I then headed for my accommodation, and a nice break before I head to K’gari tomorrow.

Cooloola Great Walk – Day Four

Littoria Walkers Camp to Kauri Walkers Camp – 21km

“Leg stretch achieved”

I was excited about today – the chance to put myself to the test a little bit and stretch the legs with a 21km hustle.

Again, I was away first. I dawdled down the hill. I had walked this way yesterday looking for an advertised lake in which I thought I might swim. No way of getting to the lake, so I returned to camp empty swim handed.

Today’s stroll was a walk in thirds. The first third consisted of some moderate ups and downs in burnt dry sclerophyl forest. Honestly, nothing really spectacular here. But a nice enough walk.

Having lived out at Uluru for 10 years, I was lucky enough to be taught some tracking skills by the indigenous Traditional Owners. I always enjoy using this skill when I’m hiking and trying to interpret the goings on behind the scenes. It has been disappointing, though not unexpected to see so many cat tracks as I’ve been walking. Huge problem. World over.

Distinctive round paw print of the cat and tell-tale tail drag of a wallaby

The second third of the walk was through intensely beautiful rainforest, fragrant with honey, and all on a steady downwards incline. Gorgeous walking. And very reminiscent of home.

This point marked the start of the rainforest walking.

The final third was back to sandy heath and dry forest. Nothing too difficult. The 20km seemed to fly by, though I was happy enough to reach camp and set up for the evening.

The campsite was in lush rainforest, and to my great pleasure, I found a site that had a natural backrest. Perfect!

I allowed myself to think about the PCT a bit today. Allowed myself a little cry at the loss of it. I haven’t really let myself do that yet. It’s not off the cards forever, but it is for now. I find myself wondering whether I could have achieved the ultimate goal. Lamenting the friendships that I never made. The joy of doing something solely for me for 6 months – I regret not being able to do that. Secretly I think I would have made it. But, for now, we’ll never know. I’ve put it back on the shelf – as a dream…maybe one day.

Meanwhile back at camp, I know that I have a couple of hours up my sleeve before the others arrive. I put my headphones on, turn it up full bore, and dance and sing my heart out. I’ve missed doing that!

Cooloola Great Walk – Day Three

Dutgee Walkers Camp to Littoria Walkers Camp – 15km

“Short and sweet”

Remember how I said that I was really enjoying sleeping with the tent fly off? Well that ended at about 2am this morning with the pitter patter of rain dropping onto my sleeping bag. Thankfully, not too heavy.

I could tell I was first out of camp this morning because the track was spanned by hundreds of fine spun, shimmering spider webs. The rain last night had caused a delicious mist to hover over the dew sparkling plain.

I turned a corner and stopped dead in my tracks. Colour, as far as the eye could see. Yellows, pinks and whites. The white trunks of the paperbarks shining off in the distance. Misty tentacles gracefully rising into the air. My eyes teared with the beauty. The privilege of being the one and only person to see that beautiful sight at that moment. Its why you hike…for these moments. Moments that take hard work and effort. But moments that are yours and yours alone.

Have to put the hard yards in to see this beautiful field

Eventually I ripped my eyes away and got moving.

It was an easy day of walking. Short distance. Moderate hills. Although I had promised I would take it easy, once I had that pack on and the sticks in my hands, I just wanted to go. So go, I did. I arrived in camp around 11.30am. Job done

Cooloola Great Walk – Day Two

Brahminy Walkers Camp to Dutgee Walkers Camp – 19km

“Somewhere, over the sand blow”.

An uneventful night. I’m enjoying sleeping with the rainfly off when I can, and watching the moon, stars and clouds from my bed. Dawn breaks, and I’m up.

Though not first to be moving around, I’m the first to leave, which I’m rather smugly pleased about. Today we go over the Cooloola sandblow, and I want to see it at it’s most pristine glory – before all those feet have trodden over it. Yes, That’s right. I want to be first!

But before we get to that, we have the morning’s walking. Which was wonderful. Straight off the bat, the track wound through forests of scarred scribbly gum and burnt grass trees. Winding in and out of the forest and interspersed with glorious views to the coast.

At one such point, I sat and had the first break of many for the morning. The sun was glinting on the ocean, and the offshore breeze was causing the waves to mist at each roll. The sound was loud and definite, even from so high up.

From the ridgetop, the track dropped down into a damp, dark gully with rainforest species reminiscent of the walk I had just completed. Another good spot for a break.

From here, the vegetation was mixed. Every area of this forest has been influenced by fire. Sometimes it looks like the fire was a long time ago, and the understory has come back thick, varied and lush. Sometimes, there is evidence of burning not so long ago, with young eucalypts and banksias jostling each other for space to grow. And sometimes it looks like the fire was very recent, with no understorey to speak off and bohemith trees blackened to the very tips of their extended limbs.

Banksias love a little bit of fire…but not too much! And not too hot!

Suddenly, I come round a corner, and there it is! The Cooloola sandblow in all its’ glory. This sandy desert is vast and beautiful. Signs warn that it is very easy to get lost. One must follow a compass bearing of 340 degrees for 750m before switching to 160 degrees for another 300m. There’s good pictures of where to go though, and it’s actually not that hard.

The Cooloola Sandblow…I’m aiming for that vegetated dune at the back

Despite this, the sense of space, lack of features and exhilarating aloneness makes me feel like an explorer from another age. I spend ages trying to get photos, but capturing that feeling is impossible.

In fact it ends up that there is so much glare on my camera, I can’t see a bloody thing of what I am taking! It was just point and shoot and hope for the best. It’s surprising any of them came out at all!

So then I begin the task of trudging across the dunes. It’s not that hard. Rather exhilarating in fact. But tougher than normal at times in the soft sand. The soft, pristine sand I should say! Yes, I was the first one!

From here it’s down a ridgeline before the track begins parralleling the meandering Noosa River.

I used to be a tour guide on K’gari more than 20 years ago, and as I’m walking this stretch, long forgotten words begin entering my head like ethereal mists. Words like fox tail fern, Baronia rivularis, turpentine, satinay, casuarina, lemon myrtle. It’s slowly coming back to me, and I enjoy matching plants with these long forgotten names.

The pink flower is the beautiful Baronia rivularis, or Dutgee in the local language

I reach camp at around 2pm. Plenty of time to jump in the river and have a freezing splash around. I sit in the warming sun, trying to dry off, and enjoy watching the reflections on the water as the sun begins to sink. Life is good.

Afternoon reflections…and a bloody cold swim!

Cooloola Great Walk – Day One

Start of walk to Brahminy Walkers Camp – 17km plus a few km towards the ferry before I was offered a ride.

“The advantages of looking at your map”

I had a really lovely couple of days resting and preparing for the Cooloola walk. The Eden B&B at Mapleton was really nice…in some ways, a little too nice…At times I just prefer an anonymous room when I need to unpack and repack everything – especially if I want to dry out my things a little bit. This felt just a little too pleasant for that! Managed to throw the tent fly on a railing to dry, but the rest stayed as was.

Also the bed. The bed was luxuriously comfortable. Exquisite sheets. But it felt a bit…cold…couldn’t snuggle in properly. The breakfast was bloody beautiful though. And the owners were really nice and friendly.

I decided to taxi it down to Tewantin. 45 minute drive, so a bit of a hefty fare, but hell – this is exactly what I save my contingency money for! My driver was a lovely, friendly female. Had some killer stories to tell about some of her fares, to the point where we were both rolling around in our seats with laughter! She says she will write a book about it one day.

I arrive at my little apartment in Tewantin. Now this is more my style! Stand-alone so I could spread all my gear out, wicked painting, and a bath to die for. I feel comfy already.

There is no way that tub is not going to be used

I head into town, pick up a new power bank and supplies. Couple of sparkling wines and then home to try out the tub. To be honest, it kind of looked a little better than it actually was…took forever to fill and was only luke warm. Oh well. Beggars can’t be choosers I suppose.

Walked back into town for dinner and was treated to an absolutely stupendous sunset. Pizza at the pier and then home and into bed. Cosy as. Oh so cosy. And so warm.

So now we finally get to the walk. Gear into pack, and pack out the door. I walk alongside the river, through a park and down the street to get to the ferry which will take me across to the start of the walk. A car drives past. Then reverses. “You headed to the ferry? Because we are too!”. I jump eagerly into the car.

Turns out the two sisters were starting the walk as well and that we will be camped in the same spot each night. They are also headed to K’gari on the same day – so it was a fortuitous meeting!

We arrived and got started. I headed off beforehand, because I know I am a fast walker, and I enjoy walking alone.

Immediately I began winding my way through a thick paperbark forest. Orange triangles marked the way. Leaving the forest, the plains opened up into expansive heathland. Yellow and pink flowers bloomed. Birds raced from one side of the track to the other. It was a wonderful way to commence the walk.

And the first of many spectacular heaths

The track then descended down onto the beach. It was a magical day, and the ocean sparkled blue. Light waves rippled, and would have been perfect for body surfing, if I had been there for another reason. But I wasn’t. I was there to walk. So walk I did.

At this stage, pleased with the how things are going

Straight up the beach and straight past the turnoff I was supposed to take. By the time I thought about it and pulled the map out, it was too late. I’m going to tell you, and you only…I didn’t turn back. I headed straight up the beach, resolving to just keep going until I got somewhere I could jump back on the track.

The error of my ways can clearly be seen!

So, dodging speeding 4WD’s galore, I continued. It wasn’t too bad. The sand was nice and hard for the most part. And the majority of vehicles kept their distance. Except for one dick who forced me to walk in the water. Dick.

Eventually I came to a spot that joined up with the walking track, so I moved back off the busy beach, and plunged back into the forest. It was a relief.

Back in heathland, the track led uphill through gnarled, old banksia trees. On the left, views opened up onto a huge lake, stretching as far as the eye could see. I reached the high point and had my first break watching the waves in the distance.

From here, it was only a few km to camp. This time through black stumped eucalypts and spiky green juncus. It was lovely and flat, though at times sandy underfoot, temporarily slowing down the forward progress.

I reached camp at around 2pm and found a lovey spot amongst the trees. Unlike my other solitary outings, people arrived in dribs and drabs. There are to be 10 of us moving through this walk together and socialising each night. Makes a real change for me! I’ve enjoyed the conversations – and its kept me up till 6.30 and only just finished dinner!

The sunset glowed orange over the lake, and we all appreciated the day’s last rays. With groaning legs, folks dispersed to their campsites, leaving me here to write, and contemplate the day.

Sunshine Coast Great Walk – Day 4

Thilba Thalba campsite to end of walk – 12km + 3km to accommodation in Mapleton

“Makes it! And room in the tank for more!”

Woke up refreshed and ready for the day. It’s sprinkling, but doesn’t seem too bad. I wonder what time it is? I unzip the tent and peer outside….nothing but darkness. Might just be because it’s overcast? Gonna have to turn on the phone and have a look. Phone turns on. 2.15am. Bloody hell! Phone off. Back to restless sleep.

When I wake again I can tell it’s early morning. The kookaburras are cackling. And the magpies are singing. The tent is lovely and dry. Until I spill my morning coffee inside it. Then it becomes quite wet.

It’s stopped raining! And I emerge from the tent to dripping trees and wispy clouds.

I don’t hang around. Pack up and push off. It’s wet. And it’s town day. The morning’s walking is mixed. Some areas of tremendous weeds…the downside of being just below a road I suppose. And some areas of absolute beauty. Grasstrees and wattles bursting with yellow. Easy walking, contouring around the mountain.

I came to a lookout and watched the mists rolling in the valley. Soon, this walk will be over. I reflect that it’s such a great introduction – short distances, great signage, stunning scenery, challenges. It’s got it all, in a small neat bundle. I’ve thoroughly enjoyed myself.

Too soon, I reach Delicia Rd and from here I have around 7.3km of road walking to get into the township of Mapleton and reach my accommodation. The roadwalking is quite do-able. Steep at times, but with lovely rainforest off to the side. It takes just over an hour to get into town.

I arrive at my accommodation by 11am. They are not quite ready for me. I drop my bags and head back into town for a cooked brekky of eggs on toast, pineapple juice and a coffee. By the time I get back they are done.

The afternooon is spent relaxing, figuring out what to do about my power bank (I have a plan!) and showering! Ah, the after walk shower. You just can’t beat it.

I write this from the Mapleton pub where I’m having dinner. It’s a nice old place. People are sitting apart because of Covid 19. No band here tonight. The dinner was great, and after a couple of wines I feel sleepy. Time for an actual bed!

Sunshine Coast Great Walk – Day 3

Ubajee Campsite to Thilba Thalba Campsite – 14km

“Here comes the rain!”

What a wonderful day of walking! I’d had it in mind that I needed to start early. Rain was forecast for later in the afternoon and there were several creek crossings to be made in the morning which were described as being impassable if heavy. With such a short distance today, I was also hoping to get into camp and set up before the clouds burst.

I was on my way by just after 7am. It was a gorgeous morning. Cloudy, brisk and perfect for walking. The first couple of kilometers led downhill toward Gheerulla falls. The track was a lovely mix of eucalypts, palms and grass trees interspersed with purple flowering pea.

At the bottom of the mountain, I veered off for a quick detour to the falls. They were running briskly, steamy mist rising from the surface.

More morning contemplation…of a watery nature

Back on the track, I followed the creek for several kilometers. This was primo walking. Nice and flat, variety of vegetation, pools of murky water, heaps of birdlife. I crossed the creeks with no problem – no wet feet, though I imagine after some rain there could be some issues.

Morning tea break – right before the first of the showers hit

Heading slightly uphill, I came to a small clearing with an expansive view. Time for a break. As I watched, the clouds rolled in and it began to sprinkle. It wasn’t heavy, and served to create an eerie atmospheric mist through the forest.

The track started to rise higher. Now there were numerous yellow wildflowers and bristly banksias. From here, it was a steep climb back up to the top. Lots of switchbacks made it really manageable, and with plenty of time, I rested as much as I wanted to. It was a great workout none the less.

Eventually, I was right up high again. A break in the trees provided the opportunity for an amazing view off into the distance. I could see rain clouds on the way.

View point gets higher and higher and higher and higher!

At the top, I reached Thilba Thalba lookout and was able to see the mountain I had descended in the morning; the creek I had walked alongside; and, the ginormous mountain I had climbed. I love it when you can see where you came from.

On the way to camp I started reflecting on why I love walking so much. I’ve thought this before, but it was reinforced again today. It’s because it makes me feel like I have a superpower. For every step I take, that feeling grows. It means that I have made some good decisions, that I’ve been fit enough, that I’ve had the will power and the want to succeed. It means that I’ve moved out of my comfort zone, and at times, put myself in moments of deep discomfort. Each step is an achievement. And each step makes me feel invincible. It’s an amazing feeling being able to rely fully on yourself.

I reached camp around 12.30pm and quickly began the task of setting up my tent.Nice hot lunch, and a trip to the viewing platform where it was windy, dark and grey. Not long after, the first fat droplets of rain splattered down on to the picnic table. Retreat! Retreat! and into the tent I bustled.

That was at about 2.30pm. The rain drizzled on for about 3 hours before tapering off for a bit. I took the chance to don my raingear and head outside. Nothing to see here. Wet, wet, wet. I managed to get to the bathroom before the floodgates opened again. Small mercies.

Back in the tent…and this time for the long haul. There’s only so much you can say about it. Cooking, gearing up for bed, boredom…all in a cramped space. Nothing to be done.

I had been hoping to listen to a couple of podcasts before bed. No such luck. My brand new power bank died unexpectedly. I had gotten an Anker based on the reviews, but for some reason, this one seems like a dud. Trouble charging and now this…I’m gonna have to look for a replacement before the next walk.

So time to turn off the phone to conserve battery (no reception anyways), read the kindle and snooze. I kept thinking just how lucky I was – to be warm and dry, whilst the rain pelted down outside. What a feeling, to be warm, fed, and safe.

Final thought….this has to be a wombat head doesn’t it?

Sunshine Coast Great Walk – Day 2

Flaxton Walkers Camp to Ubajee Walkers Camp – 14km

“Wait what?! I’m here already!”

People who know me know that I have one innate fear…rodents. (Well that and semi trailers moving without the back attached – thanks Terminator). I am absolutely shit scared of the busy, scrabbly, gnawy little critters.

And I saw one. Last night. At around 6pm. That was it – I jumped in my tent and didn’t come out. That’s a long night of staying alert to any potential activity…ready to hit the torch at a moments notice! I must have tired myself out with stress, cos I fell asleep about 8.30pm and didn’t wake till 5am. For campers on an air mattress – you’ll know that is one long, uninterupted kip!

So I was off early again. It was a beautiful walk down to Baxter Falls. A soft gradient and stunning scenery. The falls were lovely. Gushy and rocky. But a bit too cold and early for a swim.

Funky lil swing bridge at Baxter Falls…who doesn’t love a good bridge when they are walking!

Next up, a long climb back uphill. But how good it was! So many lovely switchbacks, it really was rather pleasant. Nothing like the straight up and down horrors of the Great North Walk.

One of the downsides of being a ranger (and let’s be honest, there are very few) is the ability to spot weeds in what looks like a pristine environment. Amazing how well they thrive, whatever the circumstances. There wasn’t heaps – mostly Lantana and William Taylor – but enough to remind me of work!

At the top of the hill, I commenced a short road walk into the Mapleton Falls picnic ground. Nice footpath. No dramas.

The area hosts a picnic ground and lookout, with an amazing view off into the distance. I had been planning to have lunch here, but it was way too early, so after a quick stop, headed off again.

From here to the campsite, the walk was beautiful and flat and beautiful and scenic. Palm forests that reminded me of home, towering eucalypts, ephemeral creeks.

There was a poignant moment when I came across a memorial garden of sorts. One stick had been planted for each Australian who has died of Covid 19. A little card kept tally of the date and the numbers. It was quite sureal seeing it, out in what seemed like the middle of nowhere, and a stark reminder that things are simply not good with the world.

Covid 19 stick memorial. One stick for each death in Australia.

I made my campsite by 12.30pm. Again, really nice choice of spots. I cooked up some cous cous for lunch, blew up my sleeping matt, and lay out on a table for a read and a nap. I’m reading “The Running Man” at the moment. My brother and I absolutely loved the movie as youngsters, and I must say that I am really enjoying the book!

The rest of the afternoon consisted of taking half of my possessions to the Ubajee Lookout, soaking in the warmth, and enjoying the sinking of the sun. Pastels, pinks and oranges were subtle in the sky. I ate my dinner just as the sun disappeared behind the mountain.

Back at camp, I wrestled with the night noises. Once more, I was the sole occupant of the campsites, and I envisaged an army of rodents making plans to attack my campsite as soon as I let my guard down….

With some words from the head of my support crew, I rallied. I couldn’t go to bed at 6pm again! Distraction! Thats what I needed! I unpacked my headphones, put on the tunes, and belted out the songs like nobody was listening. Which they weren’t. I resolved to conquer my fear by visiting every campsite and dancing on every table. Which I did. Crisis averted! I was in bed by 7.30pm.

Sunshine Coast Great Walk – Day 1

Lake Baroon to Flaxton Walkers Camp – 16.9km + Montville Apartments to Baroon Dam – 5km

“Just Cruising”

I had a really nice time in Montville. It’s a lovely little mountain town, full of quirky shops and eateries. Had an early dinner with the eye on the prize of heading back to my room and lighting the fire. Mission accomplished. It felt like a very luxurious way to start the walk.

Although I had set my alarm for 7am, I bounded out of bed at the crack of dawn..literally. With a 5km walk to get from my accommodation down to the start point, I decided to get on my way.

The air was crisp and cool. Vapour breath. The first few km passed very quickly with lots of interesting houses and roadside markets to look at. My alarm going off scared the shit out of me!

I came to an intersection and was told there was to be a very steep descent for the next 2km. They weren’t wrong! But slow and steady and it was fine. And I was incredibly grateful I wasn’t going the other way…that would have been a hellish way to begin or end the walk!

Before long I arrived at the start point. Immediately it was beautiful. Luscious green and soft underfoot.

The track was lovely. Well marked, and for the most part fairly flat. I’ve struggled with my AARN bags over the years…wrong size for one and then breakages on another. But boy oh boy was I pleased that I went with my gut and got another one. This time – the Featherlite Freedom. They may look weird. They may cause a few sniggers. But man, when they are working, it’s like magic. So much weight, and you barely feel a thing. Yep, magic I tells ya.

Highlights of the morning included a couple of lookouts. Red rock and green dappled with the morning sun. A soft, green river framed by the surrounding trees, but sluggish and dangerous looking in it’s stillness. The rocks and spray of Kondawilla falls. Big, fat monitor lizards basking in the sun. The crack of the whipbird, the melody of the whistler and the cackle of the kookaburra. And numerous opaque blue waterholes.

Slimy green river, but oh how beautiful!

Playing chicken with a big, fat monitor lizard

Right before lunch, after a set of steep stairs, I was able to stop in at “The Rockpools” where I took the opportunity to refresh in the freezing water.

Never pass up the opportunity to soak your poor, old feet

I made it to the Kondawilla picnic ground by lunchtime, feeling really pleased with my steady pace. From here, I had less than 5km to campground. In the spirit of making sure that I enjoy this walk more than I was able to on the Great North Walk, I pulled out my stove and cooked up some noodles for lunch. A couple of kookaburras and a couple of bush turkeys were my companions. My very eagle eyed companions.

I set off again. Another road walk. Not too bad though. Before long I exited the road and was back in the bush. Quick call to the head of my support crew and I sauntered off for the final km to camp.

The campsite is really nice. There are about 12 spaces. All really private and framed by ferns. Although there was heaps of day walkers out today, it appears that I am to be the only camper here for the night. I can already tell that I am going to be a little creeped out by the night noises…

Feels so, SO good to be back into it again!