Tag: Blog

New dawn, new day. And this one was a ripper.

The first order of business was to say goodbye to new found friends. We are having a rest day tomorrow, so it is possible we won’t see any of them again. It’s a strange sensation…how quickly you become attached to these people. A product of shared experience. How quickly we all say goodbye.

In the past week or so we have met and become friends with Peter, an older Kiwi with a wicked sense of humour and in depth knowledge of the environment; Nas, an older French woman walking the trail solo with a bubbly personality and decidedly sarcastic streak; Steve, an older Kiwi wanderer who has been walking the trail in sections, today he will complete it; and the young guns, Reed (Kiwi), Rob (Netherlands) and Alistair (UK) who met the first day of the trail and have been together ever since. We have been crossing paths with them on and off for almost two weeks. They are young and quick, and leave us in their wake as they speed past us and up the mountain.

For that is what we are doing today. Heading up a mountain. Walking the Te Whara track is like following the path of a great, sleeping dragon. All ridges and spines. Up one spike, carefully down the other side, and up again once more.

It is a breathtaking place. It’s steep slopes and dense vegetation act as natural barriers to invasive predators. Many threatened NZ species have been introduced here, where they thrive in the pristine scrub.

We jagged a near perfect day. It was overcast and incredibly misty along the spine, stifling what would have been amazing views. However, it didn’t rain until we reached the bottom, which we were extremely grateful for.

5 hours to walk 8km. It was rather demanding!! There was a definite sense of relief at reaching the bottom and witnessing the beautiful calm waters of Urquhart Bay.

We managed another 3km before the sky opened up and torrential rain began to fall. Raincoats are not very effective in this sort of deluge, but we put them on anyway. Another 3km around the bay before we reach our destination, “Thistledo”, a little bach where we dry off, replenish sleep and food, and, plan for the final push into Auckland.

A lovely meal is consumed at the local restaurant. A twilight walk back to our accommodation. And a very well earned, magnificent sleep. Got to love the rest days.

We extracted ourselves from “The Farm” early and efficiently. Half an idea to stick around and have a coffee dissipated as I fought tooth and nail to get into the toilets. Several dogs were brawling. I snarled “Let’s go!” I didn’t need to insist.

Relieved, we began our road walk. Trying to enjoy something which isn’t always easy to like. As I have said, many times, road walking can be monotonous, dangerous, and is especially hard on the body. We were able to maintain both our spirits, and a good pace, to saunter into Helena Bay for lunch.

This was our first glimpse of a Bay of Islands beach. The sand was dewy black and glistening in the sunlight. Pebbles, rocks, seaweed and driftwood strewn along the shore. The water was a murky blue, the result of the recent heavy rains. We took our shoes off and walked to the shoreline. Cool, crisp water washed onto our toes and soothed our road worn feet. The pebbles crunched, crackled and rolled underfoot. The perfect beachside foot massage!

After lunch, a change of tact. Finally we left the road, and entered a grassy paddock with a small, well worn track. Ahhhh…instant tension seeping from the body. Relief at being off the hot, sticky tarmac.

The track quickly wound its way around to a hill and then we were into it! A long ridge walk. Up and down a slippery, muddy, grassy, tree rooty track. It felt adventurous and wild. Exactly what we are here to experience. It was tiring, but great fun. And certainly felt like an achievement to cap off the day.

There are only 8 hikers in the makeshift camp tonight. A treat, having been surrounded by so many people the previous night. Just a little bit more space for us all to breathe, listen to the birds, and enjoy nature. We were all in bed by 7.30pm! It had been a long, but thoroughly enjoyable day.

So I admit straight off the bat that I didn’t go looking for kiwis last night. I was in bed by 8pm and it was still blinding sunlight outside, so spotlight searching wasn’t an option…BUT this morning…magic!

I was packing up my tent, when I saw it. Snuffling around at the outskirts of the scrub. A strange little waddling creature with a long black beak. Like nothing I’ve seen before….a Kiwi!!! I’m sure of it! Of course, no one else was around to witness it…BUT, I did get photographic evidence! Voila!!

I know, I know. It doesn’t look like much…but I promise you! I know what I saw! Aubs, of course, denies I saw any such thing. But he’s just jealous. That, I’m sure of as well. 😊

It wasn’t a spectacular walk today. My best photos came from a section we were only in because we were lost…we weren’t actually supposed to be there. Having said that, it wasn’t the worst day ever either.

Firstly, a road walk of about 14km. This is the bypass I spoke of yesterday. Cars zoom past at a rate of knots, and there is very little verge to escape to. It doesn’t feel dangerous. But it doesn’t feel fun either. We have a break in a tiny, homemade bus stop by the side of the road. At least it is a safe space to sit!

Eventually we turn onto a little used gravel road and commence an upwards climb. And up, and up and up. Several kilometers of uphill! The bushland was high quality, with several huge Kauris spotted presiding over the forest.

What goes up must come down. So down we came. Another roadside session, before finally arriving at “The Farm”. Folks who have read my blog before know that I use the word “quaint” rather loosely. Well, this place is REALLY quaint! It’s a kind of run down working farm / commune. It’s hard to know whether there are more dogs than people living here. Think mud, dog shit, lopsided hills hoist, broken chairs and cracked benches.

Still, it’s home for the night. We try to settle in. “The Farm” is located right in the middle of a long stretch, without many accommodation options. So hikers begin to pour in. We are all told that due to a yoga instruction course which is taking place, we all need to squash into a tiny space. My tent ends up mounted half in a vegie patch. And on top of pooh. There are 17 tents in total, vying for a place in the mud.

There is one flushing toilet for 40 people. I didn’t venture into the outdoor toilets, which wasn’t a long drop, but buckets under the seat. Aubs told me that they were so full “a man dare not sit down”. Yikes!

The hikers were all in bed by 8pm. The festivities of the residents continued in a swirl of guitar, piano and pontificating. Dogs barked randomly. Lights were turned off around 12pm. I feel so blessed knowing that these peace loving hippies charged us $25 each for the privilege of staying. Needless the say, “The Farm” now rates as the benchmark for worst place to stay on the trail.

Don’t be fooled by that 11km and think we had a nice easy day…we had a SUPER easy day!! Half of what you see is the ferry ride across to Russell! It was a very civilised way of getting back onto the trail following a day of cultural immersion, haircuts and washing. A top notch rest day.

It was an extremely misty morning, drenching rain having poured all night. Chairs were strewn across the lawn. A forlorn looking hedgehog was pathetically paddling, stuck in the pool.

First stop of the day was the ferry terminal in Paihia. Owing to track closures, hikers have three choices at this point for continuing the trail. A coastal walk followed by a short ferry ride and long walk on a busy road; kayaking 18km followed by a short walk on a busy road; or, a longer ferry ride followed by long walk on a moderately busy road. We chose the third option. So, onto the ferry bound for Russell we go

It was a lovely way to start the day. Tang of sea salt on the lips and spray in the hair. Misty rain pattering down the clear plastic windows. We chugged past a number of little, uninhabited islands before docking at the picturesque Russell pier.

We slowly walked through town, taking time to examine the old houses and architecture. Russell was once the capital of New Zealand, and there are a number of old colonial buildings remaining in the town. Yesterday we learnt that Norfolk Pines were used to mark important buildings and areas. A connection to home in this important place.

Although short (very short!), it was an interesting walk through green bushland and swampy mangroves.

We arrived at our destination right on lunchtime and were told to just find a spot. The ground was absolutely sopping wet from the nights heavy rainfall. We were later told that many roads were closed, forcing visitors, including a school group, back to the campground. There wasn’t a cabin to spare!!

The best surprise of the day came in the form of a little caravan parked out the front, selling a range of Thai food. Absolutely delicious!! Crunchy spring rolls with a filling of vermicelli and mushroom. Wraps, bursting to brim, with sweet and sour goodness. So good we decided immediately that we would be visiting the caravan again for dinner….be damned with all the food we are carrying!! This was too good to miss!

There are Kiwi here apparently. And I have it in mind to head out with my torch tonight and have a look for one of these elusive little birds. If successful, that would definitely be the best surprise of all!!

So luxurious to have a later start today. To lie in a great big bed, enjoying the softness and warmth. A long, hot shower to wake up. Coffee and a slow breakfast.

25km to walk today in order to reach the seaside town of Paihia, and a well deserved rest day. I’m feeling lethargic. Tired legs after the long haul yesterday. But the promise of rest, a bed, nice meal and the beautiful scenery of the Bay of Islands was enough to keep me moving and motivated. Onwards!

Essentially the walk today was through a large forestry reserve. Much of the area had been stripped of trees, giving the vicinity a vast, desolate feeling. It was straightforward walking, and nothing too onerous. We reached the highest point, Mt Bledisloe, by mid afternoon.

Of course, it rained at that point, obscuring our first glimpses of the world renowned Bay of Islands. Just as we left, it started to clear. Of course.

It didn’t take long before we were there and experiencing it for ourselves! Although the flooding rain and overcast conditions weren’t conducive to showing it at its best, the Bay is still incredibly vibrant and beautiful. Seabirds, boats, wind, salt and spray.

The promised rest, bed, nice meal and beautiful scenery all came to fruition! Tomorrow, there will be planning, washing and resupplying. As well as a trip to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds to learn more about the incredible Maori culture. I’m looking forward to it immensely!

From the sublime to the ridiculous….It poured down all night long. In the morning, carnage at the campsite as campers dealt with newly developed swamps around their tents.

Packing up is never easy in the rain. A case of try and do as much as possible inside, before getting out and tackling the rest of the pack up in the elements. Afterwards, I find HOSC huddling under the small roofed area we ate dinner at the night before. Both of us looked fairly glum. Nothing for it but to get moving. So that’s what we did.

Very honestly, it was a crazy day. The rain barely eased up. Cats and dogs. We started out on a little used road. A track closure meant a 7.5km detour. Ordinarily it may have been interesting, but today was not that day. We raced through it, barely stopping.

A fortuitous “for sale” sign led to us spying a mysterious orange triangle seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Where the triangles go, we follow. Over the fence and into a grassy paddock we plunged. Pelted by the rain on all sides. Now this was more like the Heysen!!

Up, down and around through grassy and weed infested paddocks. It was boggy, muddy and the views were, well, pretty ordinary.

That is, until we arrived at a magical, green grotto. Full of vibrant pungas, or tree ferns. I’ve never witnessed so many in one place. It was like a lovely, wet, fairy glade.

It was nice whilst it lasted, but before long we were back on the boggy track. Finally we arrived at a river. Swollen, brown and frothy. On the verge of flooding. On a sunny day, meandering alongside this creek would have been lovely. Today, it was a wet, soaked mess.

But then the glory. The moment that made the whole day worthwhile. The moment that had us grinning from ear to ear, as the rain continued to pummel. Rainbow Falls. Thundering and magnificent under the heavy floods. Power and beauty wrapped in a roaring package. It was stunning.

The final few kilometres of the day were the icing on the cake. Beautiful, lush forest. Birds crying out as the rain began to fade. We exited the track and made our way into the town of Kerikeri to be met by the owners of our accommodation for the night. One quick look at us was enough to have her pulling out the drying rack immediately. All I could think about was a long, hot, soaking shower.

The shower was spectacular. The accommodation was superb. By the time I was in fresh clothes, hair washed, equipment drying I felt on top of the world.

It was a really rough day. 32km, non stop. In the pouring rain. It’s enough to make anyone cry. One thing is for sure. It was so nice to have company. Someone to laugh with, feel frustrated with, wet and haggard with, joyous with, to bitch and moan with, to feel alive with. It was a gift.

Additional gear breakages – 3. My new puffy sustained damage from an unknown source. The hole is taped up. Aubs tent fly is currently safety pinned together, the zip having completely zipped off. Aubs bed roll stuff sack has succumbed to the pressure as well.

Number of falls/trips/spills/ slides in the mud….Aubs -3; me – 0. Haha!!

What a day!! This is hiking at its best. Adventurous, beautiful, a test to the limits, reward at the end. Perfectly epic day!

It didn’t rain! Well not much anyway. Not enough to worry us. So 13 intrepid hikers set off, butterflies in the tummy, hoping to make it to the end.

The first half hour was all downhill. And it was all about mud. Great big swaths of boggy, clayey, gooey mud. So much for the dry, clean shoes. Time to embrace the day. Mud it is!

Not to worry, because the second pass is all about water. And not just a creek crossing. A creek walk! We plunge into the icy water and start slogging. It’s just over 4km straight down the creek. No side track. Just the creek itself. It’s heavenly.

We quickly all break up into smaller groups giving the illusion that we have the whole forest to ourselves. We cross small and large streams trying to find the best route through the rocky passes. The sun glistens off the water and the greenery along both sides of the bank shines. It’s an immensely enjoyable experience.

At the end of the creek walk is a large, inviting waterhole. Here folks have gathered for a break, so a quick dip is not on the cards. Instead, we move into phase 3 of the walk.

Phase 3 consists of what kiwis call ‘siding’. This is traversing the side of a hill on a very small track, often with a potentially damaging fall off to one side. It’s tricky going. The track is tough with tree roots and mud making things slippery and difficult. The forest is lovely however, as we travel adjacent to a vibrant river.

Close to the end of Phase 3 we decided to take a break on a log on the opposite side of the river. No sooner had we sat down when across sloshed a new face. Enter Chris. A Swiss fellow who has lived in NZ for 20 odd years. And can you believe it….we both knew someone from Norfolk!! Right out in the middle of nowhere! Although a small place…Norfolk Islanders are everywhere!

We begin Phase 4 with a steep, steep climb up many, many steps. Before long, we’ve travelled from the creek to the ridge. The forest changes. Massive kauri trees are everywhere. It feels such a privilege to witness them in all their glory. The track traverses several ridge tops and tree routes continue to be a problematic trip hazard. The air is cool and mountainous. It feels like freedom.

Eventually we reach a 4wd track. Just 9.5km left to camp. Another few hours. We start to move quickly, enjoying being able to stretch the legs. It’s starts to spit. And gets heavier and heavier.

We arrive tired and elated into camp. It’s been an epic day. One of those days you hope for when doing this sport. It’s a jostle in the campground for sites again. Particularly because rain is due. Big rain. Dinner is spent huddled under a small shelter. At its completion I scurry to my tent, eager to tuck into my warm sleeping bag and reflect on an amazing day.