Te Araroa Day 18: Whananaki Campground to Nikau Bay EcoCamp, 25km (349km)

Awesome little day today. I had snagged a simple cabin for the princely sum of $25. So, a nice comfy sleep for me last night.

The sky was overcast as we packed. Optimistically, I began the day with my raincoat off. No sooner had we crossed the longest footbridge in the southern hemisphere, the sky opened and the rain began to fall. Raincoat on.

It was a bit of a shame, because the track this morning meandered along a coastal trail. Beautiful bays. Though the rain obscured the best of the views. I was interested to go past the “Poor Knights” islands – the colour of the blue paint I am using for my renovations back home. Definitely wasn’t as blue as that paint, but the walk was lovely.

Rainy bays

We were corrupted by other hikers today, and my rebellious streak continued. We decided to take the coastal road to Ngunguru, rather than the designated TA track. It was a great decision. We walked 5km into the little town of Matapouri. It was easy road walking, with plenty of majestic views and interesting houses to envy.

Heading into Matapouri
Creek crossing
Little ray of sunshine on the estuary
This area is traditionally protected and guarded by stingrays, dolphins and great white sharks.

I continued with one of my new creeds just as we left town. An offer of a ride to the next village – 6km of windy, little verge road. We readily accepted. “If help is offered, I will take it”. And arrived in the marina town of Tutukaka, just in time for lunch.

HOSC admires a giant tree

It was a quick 4km then to the township of Ngunguru where James arrived in his little dingy to pick up the hordes of hikers and ferry them across the river to the Nicau Bay Eco Lodge. A lovely, handcrafted oasis with huge, clean kitchen, magical outdoor showers, and beautiful flat, clean campsites overlooking the water. “The Farm” this is not.

Aubs enjoys a tent site with a view!

There are many hikers here tonight. We have found ourselves in a “hiker bubble” over the last few days. Same faces at all the campsites…we are getting to know each other. It’s a new and increasingly nice element of thru- hiking to experience. Slowly but surely, I’m coming around to it.

We are about to be briefed by James on what to expect tomorrow. Apparently it’s going to be a 5.30am start to beat the tides and cross the estuary!! I’m not the best morning person. Let’s hope it goes ok!

STOP PRESS! Despite miles and miles of green grass a latecomer has decided to camp as close as possible to me! This I do not like!

Te Araroa Day 17: “Camp at 305” to Whananaki: ?km (321km)

Today could either be seen as a disaster or a blessing. I know what I’m leaning towards…what do you think?

The whole camp was up and at ’em early. Various plans being discussed and enacted upon. Our plan had been to do the full road walk into Whananaki….it didn’t turn out that way.

View just a little way on from the campsite
Enjoying the norning
Road break with a view

We started well enough. Another bypass as a result of the Kauri dieback. A worthy cause, though the result is more of the dreaded road walking. We were making solid progress when….disaster. We miss a turn. Walk several kilometers down a busy stretch of road before the mistake is realised. I’m, to put it mildly, pretty shitty.

We turn around and begin to rectify our mistake. I’m feeling hot and bothered. Decidedly antsy. A roaring behind us and the thundering of hooves. An ATV, 4WD and a couple of old timers screeching at the cows. We’ve got ourselves a muster!

The kindly farmer on the ATV asks us if we would like a ride back up the hill. He realises we have gone the wrong way. We gratefully accept and plonk onto the back of the vehicle. He races us up the hill and drops us off, keen to keep his cows on the straight and narrow.

The cows hustle past us. Next second the driver of the ute receives instructions to take us all the way into town! He stops, the doors are opened, there’s no time for a discussion, in we jump.

Honestly, I’m very relieved. As we zoom past the countryside I realise we aren’t really missing much. And the road is busy, narrow and winding. Sometimes you just have to take the help that is offered. This is one of those times.

I’m extremely grateful when we are dropped off at the caravan park. It’s a hot day, and we now have a whole afternoon to charge accessories, plan ahead, dry equipment and relax!

For the first time the pool in the caravan park has water in it. With chores complete we strip off and plunge into the icy cold depths. It feels divine. Both refreshing and relaxing. I lounge on a wooden seat in the sun afterwards and feel utterly content.

An early dinner of fish and chips (actually fish bites…they’d run out of fish), bit of a walk, and now I’m relaxing with a glass of wine watching the sunset under a Norfolk Pine. Thanks to the generosity of a couple of strangers, I’ve been able to have a wonderful, much needed, relaxing day.

Longest foot bridge in the southern hemisphere!
Norfolk Pine glowing in the sunset

Te Araroa Day 16: “The Farm” to “Camp at 305”, 27km (305km)

We extracted ourselves from “The Farm” early and efficiently. Half an idea to stick around and have a coffee dissipated as I fought tooth and nail to get into the toilets. Several dogs were brawling. I snarled “Let’s go!” I didn’t need to insist.

Glad to see the back end of the farm

Relieved, we began our road walk. Trying to enjoy something which isn’t always easy to like. As I have said, many times, road walking can be monotonous, dangerous, and is especially hard on the body. We were able to maintain both our spirits, and a good pace, to saunter into Helena Bay for lunch.

Always nice to reach a nice view point from the road
Happy to have escaped
Paddocks reminiscent of Norfolk

This was our first glimpse of a Bay of Islands beach. The sand was dewy black and glistening in the sunlight. Pebbles, rocks, seaweed and driftwood strewn along the shore. The water was a murky blue, the result of the recent heavy rains. We took our shoes off and walked to the shoreline. Cool, crisp water washed onto our toes and soothed our road worn feet. The pebbles crunched, crackled and rolled underfoot. The perfect beachside foot massage!

Helena Bay
Happy hikers after beachside foot massages

After lunch, a change of tact. Finally we left the road, and entered a grassy paddock with a small, well worn track. Ahhhh…instant tension seeping from the body. Relief at being off the hot, sticky tarmac.

Lovely ridge track
Steep, slippery and muddy at times
HOSC navigates a downhill section

The track quickly wound its way around to a hill and then we were into it! A long ridge walk. Up and down a slippery, muddy, grassy, tree rooty track. It felt adventurous and wild. Exactly what we are here to experience. It was tiring, but great fun. And certainly felt like an achievement to cap off the day.

There are only 8 hikers in the makeshift camp tonight. A treat, having been surrounded by so many people the previous night. Just a little bit more space for us all to breathe, listen to the birds, and enjoy nature. We were all in bed by 7.30pm! It had been a long, but thoroughly enjoyable day.

View of Helena Bay en route to camp at 305km. Yes, we made it past 300km!!!

Te Araroa Day 15: Orongo Bay to “The Farm” 26km (280km)

So I admit straight off the bat that I didn’t go looking for kiwis last night. I was in bed by 8pm and it was still blinding sunlight outside, so spotlight searching wasn’t an option…BUT this morning…magic!

I was packing up my tent, when I saw it. Snuffling around at the outskirts of the scrub. A strange little waddling creature with a long black beak. Like nothing I’ve seen before….a Kiwi!!! I’m sure of it! Of course, no one else was around to witness it…BUT, I did get photographic evidence! Voila!!

The Kiwi?? Not the best photo, but beggars can’t be choosers. I know what I saw!

I know, I know. It doesn’t look like much…but I promise you! I know what I saw! Aubs, of course, denies I saw any such thing. But he’s just jealous. That, I’m sure of as well. 😊

It wasn’t a spectacular walk today. My best photos came from a section we were only in because we were lost…we weren’t actually supposed to be there. Having said that, it wasn’t the worst day ever either.

View from a jetty we were at because we were lost

Firstly, a road walk of about 14km. This is the bypass I spoke of yesterday. Cars zoom past at a rate of knots, and there is very little verge to escape to. It doesn’t feel dangerous. But it doesn’t feel fun either. We have a break in a tiny, homemade bus stop by the side of the road. At least it is a safe space to sit!

Roadside view

Eventually we turn onto a little used gravel road and commence an upwards climb. And up, and up and up. Several kilometers of uphill! The bushland was high quality, with several huge Kauris spotted presiding over the forest.

Massive Kauris, guardians of the forest

What goes up must come down. So down we came. Another roadside session, before finally arriving at “The Farm”. Folks who have read my blog before know that I use the word “quaint” rather loosely. Well, this place is REALLY quaint! It’s a kind of run down working farm / commune. It’s hard to know whether there are more dogs than people living here. Think mud, dog shit, lopsided hills hoist, broken chairs and cracked benches.

Still, it’s home for the night. We try to settle in. “The Farm” is located right in the middle of a long stretch, without many accommodation options. So hikers begin to pour in. We are all told that due to a yoga instruction course which is taking place, we all need to squash into a tiny space. My tent ends up mounted half in a vegie patch. And on top of pooh. There are 17 tents in total, vying for a place in the mud.

Taking my new found love of vegie gardening to a whole new level
Aubs contemplates life at “The Farm”. And decides he doesn’t want in.

There is one flushing toilet for 40 people. I didn’t venture into the outdoor toilets, which wasn’t a long drop, but buckets under the seat. Aubs told me that they were so full “a man dare not sit down”. Yikes!

The hikers were all in bed by 8pm. The festivities of the residents continued in a swirl of guitar, piano and pontificating. Dogs barked randomly. Lights were turned off around 12pm. I feel so blessed knowing that these peace loving hippies charged us $25 each for the privilege of staying. Needless the say, “The Farm” now rates as the benchmark for worst place to stay on the trail.

Te Araroa Day 14: Paihia to Orongo Bay Holiday Park, 11km (250km)

Don’t be fooled by that 11km and think we had a nice easy day…we had a SUPER easy day!! Half of what you see is the ferry ride across to Russell! It was a very civilised way of getting back onto the trail following a day of cultural immersion, haircuts and washing. A top notch rest day.

It was an extremely misty morning, drenching rain having poured all night. Chairs were strewn across the lawn. A forlorn looking hedgehog was pathetically paddling, stuck in the pool.

First stop of the day was the ferry terminal in Paihia. Owing to track closures, hikers have three choices at this point for continuing the trail. A coastal walk followed by a short ferry ride and long walk on a busy road; kayaking 18km followed by a short walk on a busy road; or, a longer ferry ride followed by long walk on a moderately busy road. We chose the third option. So, onto the ferry bound for Russell we go

Ferry bound for Russell

It was a lovely way to start the day. Tang of sea salt on the lips and spray in the hair. Misty rain pattering down the clear plastic windows. We chugged past a number of little, uninhabited islands before docking at the picturesque Russell pier.

Uninhabited island
Happy on the boat
The mysterious Bay of Islands looking even more mysterious in the mist

We slowly walked through town, taking time to examine the old houses and architecture. Russell was once the capital of New Zealand, and there are a number of old colonial buildings remaining in the town. Yesterday we learnt that Norfolk Pines were used to mark important buildings and areas. A connection to home in this important place.

Although short (very short!), it was an interesting walk through green bushland and swampy mangroves.

Aubs hitting the track
Very wet stream to cross
Mangrove boardwalk

We arrived at our destination right on lunchtime and were told to just find a spot. The ground was absolutely sopping wet from the nights heavy rainfall. We were later told that many roads were closed, forcing visitors, including a school group, back to the campground. There wasn’t a cabin to spare!!

View from the caravan park

The best surprise of the day came in the form of a little caravan parked out the front, selling a range of Thai food. Absolutely delicious!! Crunchy spring rolls with a filling of vermicelli and mushroom. Wraps, bursting to brim, with sweet and sour goodness. So good we decided immediately that we would be visiting the caravan again for dinner….be damned with all the food we are carrying!! This was too good to miss!

There are Kiwi here apparently. And I have it in mind to head out with my torch tonight and have a look for one of these elusive little birds. If successful, that would definitely be the best surprise of all!!

Te Araroa Day 12: Kerikeri to Paihia, 25km (243km)

So luxurious to have a later start today. To lie in a great big bed, enjoying the softness and warmth. A long, hot shower to wake up. Coffee and a slow breakfast.

25km to walk today in order to reach the seaside town of Paihia, and a well deserved rest day. I’m feeling lethargic. Tired legs after the long haul yesterday. But the promise of rest, a bed, nice meal and the beautiful scenery of the Bay of Islands was enough to keep me moving and motivated. Onwards!

Falls on the outskirts of Kerikeri
Looking at the historic stone house, near Kerikeri

Essentially the walk today was through a large forestry reserve. Much of the area had been stripped of trees, giving the vicinity a vast, desolate feeling. It was straightforward walking, and nothing too onerous. We reached the highest point, Mt Bledisloe, by mid afternoon.

The forestry reserve
Aubs, happy with his photo point
Me, not so happy with mine

Of course, it rained at that point, obscuring our first glimpses of the world renowned Bay of Islands. Just as we left, it started to clear. Of course.

It didn’t take long before we were there and experiencing it for ourselves! Although the flooding rain and overcast conditions weren’t conducive to showing it at its best, the Bay is still incredibly vibrant and beautiful. Seabirds, boats, wind, salt and spray.

We made it to the Bay of Islands!
Islands lit by the afternoon light

The promised rest, bed, nice meal and beautiful scenery all came to fruition! Tomorrow, there will be planning, washing and resupplying. As well as a trip to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds to learn more about the incredible Maori culture. I’m looking forward to it immensely!

Night lights of Paihia

Te Araroa Day 11: Puketi Camp to Kerikeri, 32km (220.7km)

From the sublime to the ridiculous….It poured down all night long. In the morning, carnage at the campsite as campers dealt with newly developed swamps around their tents.

Packing up is never easy in the rain. A case of try and do as much as possible inside, before getting out and tackling the rest of the pack up in the elements. Afterwards, I find HOSC huddling under the small roofed area we ate dinner at the night before. Both of us looked fairly glum. Nothing for it but to get moving. So that’s what we did.

Very honestly, it was a crazy day. The rain barely eased up. Cats and dogs. We started out on a little used road. A track closure meant a 7.5km detour. Ordinarily it may have been interesting, but today was not that day. We raced through it, barely stopping.

A fortuitous “for sale” sign led to us spying a mysterious orange triangle seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Where the triangles go, we follow. Over the fence and into a grassy paddock we plunged. Pelted by the rain on all sides. Now this was more like the Heysen!!

Aubs hits the grassy paddock

Up, down and around through grassy and weed infested paddocks. It was boggy, muddy and the views were, well, pretty ordinary.

Cute, little, wet bridge
Mud, mud and more mud
Even the advertised photo points were a little bit….ordinary

That is, until we arrived at a magical, green grotto. Full of vibrant pungas, or tree ferns. I’ve never witnessed so many in one place. It was like a lovely, wet, fairy glade.

Fairy glad spotted from a distance
Magic

It was nice whilst it lasted, but before long we were back on the boggy track. Finally we arrived at a river. Swollen, brown and frothy. On the verge of flooding. On a sunny day, meandering alongside this creek would have been lovely. Today, it was a wet, soaked mess.

Brooding river
Wet, soaked mess
On the upside…who doesn’t love a swing bridge!

But then the glory. The moment that made the whole day worthwhile. The moment that had us grinning from ear to ear, as the rain continued to pummel. Rainbow Falls. Thundering and magnificent under the heavy floods. Power and beauty wrapped in a roaring package. It was stunning.

Gloriously flooded Rainbow Falls
Soaked but pleased!

The final few kilometres of the day were the icing on the cake. Beautiful, lush forest. Birds crying out as the rain began to fade. We exited the track and made our way into the town of Kerikeri to be met by the owners of our accommodation for the night. One quick look at us was enough to have her pulling out the drying rack immediately. All I could think about was a long, hot, soaking shower.

Forested, riverside track

The shower was spectacular. The accommodation was superb. By the time I was in fresh clothes, hair washed, equipment drying I felt on top of the world.

Ahhhh. Clean, dry and relaxed. Definitely deserve to put my feet up today.

It was a really rough day. 32km, non stop. In the pouring rain. It’s enough to make anyone cry. One thing is for sure. It was so nice to have company. Someone to laugh with, feel frustrated with, wet and haggard with, joyous with, to bitch and moan with, to feel alive with. It was a gift.

Additional gear breakages – 3. My new puffy sustained damage from an unknown source. The hole is taped up. Aubs tent fly is currently safety pinned together, the zip having completely zipped off. Aubs bed roll stuff sack has succumbed to the pressure as well.

Number of falls/trips/spills/ slides in the mud….Aubs -3; me – 0. Haha!!

Doesn’t take long to have the beautiful accommodation in shambles!

Te Araroa Day 10: Camp at 177.1 to Puketi Recreation Camp 23km (197.5)

What a day!! This is hiking at its best. Adventurous, beautiful, a test to the limits, reward at the end. Perfectly epic day!

It didn’t rain! Well not much anyway. Not enough to worry us. So 13 intrepid hikers set off, butterflies in the tummy, hoping to make it to the end.

Nervous, but happy to be going

The first half hour was all downhill. And it was all about mud. Great big swaths of boggy, clayey, gooey mud. So much for the dry, clean shoes. Time to embrace the day. Mud it is!

Phase 1 track. Not the boggy part!

Not to worry, because the second pass is all about water. And not just a creek crossing. A creek walk! We plunge into the icy water and start slogging. It’s just over 4km straight down the creek. No side track. Just the creek itself. It’s heavenly.

First view of the creek walk

We quickly all break up into smaller groups giving the illusion that we have the whole forest to ourselves. We cross small and large streams trying to find the best route through the rocky passes. The sun glistens off the water and the greenery along both sides of the bank shines. It’s an immensely enjoyable experience.

A wall of procris lines the banks
Woah there HOSC!!
Recovers well!

At the end of the creek walk is a large, inviting waterhole. Here folks have gathered for a break, so a quick dip is not on the cards. Instead, we move into phase 3 of the walk.

The large waterhole at the end of Phase 2

Phase 3 consists of what kiwis call ‘siding’. This is traversing the side of a hill on a very small track, often with a potentially damaging fall off to one side. It’s tricky going. The track is tough with tree roots and mud making things slippery and difficult. The forest is lovely however, as we travel adjacent to a vibrant river.

Muddy siding!

Close to the end of Phase 3 we decided to take a break on a log on the opposite side of the river. No sooner had we sat down when across sloshed a new face. Enter Chris. A Swiss fellow who has lived in NZ for 20 odd years. And can you believe it….we both knew someone from Norfolk!! Right out in the middle of nowhere! Although a small place…Norfolk Islanders are everywhere!

Creek near the end of Phase 3. Aubs went for a swim here before we started the next section.

We begin Phase 4 with a steep, steep climb up many, many steps. Before long, we’ve travelled from the creek to the ridge. The forest changes. Massive kauri trees are everywhere. It feels such a privilege to witness them in all their glory. The track traverses several ridge tops and tree routes continue to be a problematic trip hazard. The air is cool and mountainous. It feels like freedom.

Stairway to the top
Lovely track through the kauris

Eventually we reach a 4wd track. Just 9.5km left to camp. Another few hours. We start to move quickly, enjoying being able to stretch the legs. It’s starts to spit. And gets heavier and heavier.

We arrive tired and elated into camp. It’s been an epic day. One of those days you hope for when doing this sport. It’s a jostle in the campground for sites again. Particularly because rain is due. Big rain. Dinner is spent huddled under a small shelter. At its completion I scurry to my tent, eager to tuck into my warm sleeping bag and reflect on an amazing day.

Te Araroa Day 9: Mangamuka to Camp at 177.1km (177.1km)

It was quite a cold evening. The cat decided to stay in my tent vestibule half the night. Because of the cold, or wanting company I’m not sure. When I emerged from my tent this morning, the landscape was awash with an eerie, white mist. Smoke rising from a cauldron.

The sun tries to peek its way through

I said my farewells to the dog-like cat, and we were on the road by 7.30am.

In the distance, the pub / radio station where we stayed the night. And where the dog-like cat lives

Comparatively it was a really pleasant walk today along a quiet, gravelly 4WD track.

Nice, soft track
Even softer track

I spent much of the day making comparisons between Norfolk plants and animals and those of New Zealand. Last time I came to NZ, I didn’t have the knowledge of Norfolk’s species like I do now. This trip, I recognise related species of long leaved Isaacwood, glossy leaved Coprosma, serrated edged Streblus, pre-historic looking procris, giant melky trees and more. I spot cheeky, little grey fantails and colourful blue nufkas. Rurus, or moreporks as we call them, are constant night time callers. Over the past few years I have learnt that Norfolks plants and animals are much more similar to those of NZ, than they are to Australia. It’s so enlightening to see that in practice.

Massive snail spotted on the track.

The stars of the day however are the ancient Kauri trees. They tower over the forest, life support for hundreds ferns, orchids and stags growing on their skin. We witness the base of one of these forest giants, it’s girth measuring many metres in diameter.

Aubs showing the scale of an ancient kauri
Magnificent trees

It’s a long, hot afternoon in camp. The new campsite, designed to limit the spread of the soil borne disease phytophera further into the forest, seems large at first. It shrinks over time however, as more and more walkers arrive, elated and exhausted to the campsite. At last count there are twelve of us here, with reports of more to arrive.

Lovely creek about 3km from camp

It’s a quietly anxious night for all of us. We all have an arduous day ahead of us. 22km. Expected time to completion….9.5 hours. And if it rains, we can’t go at all. As the sky begins to spit, the campground empties. Everybody has fingers crossed that the rain will stop. Zippers are closed and lights go out. Here’s hoping.

7.30pm, and the camp is quiet as a mouse

Te Araroa Day 8: Broadwood to Mangamuka 23km (160km)

The second part to the Plan B alternate…a full day of roadwalking, before rejoining the trail in the small village of Mangamuka. Fun?

Despite a dewy morning, the clear skies promised another warm day.  The night had been rather disrupted, with party goers, free roaming possums and fireworks all competing to drain me of sleep. It was definitely a dozy start to the day.  Despite this, we were all packed up and ready to make tracks by 7.30am.

This would prove to be a good decision, both in terms of avoiding the blistering sun, and getting out and about before the majority of cars started rushing past.  There was little road verge most of the day, so squeezing up to the side of the road when a particularly large vehicle passed, became the norm.

Although the road walk was hot, sticky, and potentially dangerous, it really was rather interesting.  And nice and flat.  That was a great bonus as well!

The morning consisted of cruising up a valley, lush green paddocks on either side.  We spotted plenty of big, fat turkeys, cows, sheep and babbling brooks.

Aubs keeps to the verge
Valley views

The second half, though hotter and busier on the road, was more interesting.  A large brackish creek wound its way next to our road, supporting unexpected mangroves and swampland. 

Roadside dining
Inland mangroves
This brackish river appeared like a mirage. Too muddy to attempt a swim though

We arrived at the Mangamuka radio station, formerly Red Lion Pub, around 1.30pm.  Our hopes of the Dairy being open with the opportunity to ravish our thirst with cool drinks, was quickly dashed.  Back to the pub with no beer.  And lots of cats.  One in particular is very white and demanding when it comes to food and attention….reminds me of a little dog I know…And miss terribly.

So we have rejoined the trail.  Tomorrow we will be getting off the main road and heading bush again. Hallelujah!

No match for the Brontesaurus!!