Tag: Female Hiker

Total Distance – 859km

A Heysen Trail Story

It’s been a really mixed day of emotions.  The whole gamut really. Exhilarating highs and devastating lows. That’s life I suppose.

The day started on a high.  A dry tent!  It’s amazing what a positive difference that makes to the packing up process.  And Greg and Cath were true to their word, and provided me with boiling water both last night, and, for my cuppa this morning.  Great start.

Not so great was the news that my new stove was definitely not going to make it to Kersbrook to pick up today.  Not much to be done except forward it on to the next town, and plan to beg, borrow or steal Cath and Greg’s stove again tonight.

The walk today was honestly a bit of a blur.  Rather nice walking through forestry areas and nature strips.  And hills.  Many, many hills.  Puffing and panting, I reflected that it was probably a rather fortunate thing that I had been denied entry to Kersbrook.

I ran into Cath and Greg having their lunch and they revealed an incredible surprise.  Gail, the wonderful coffee angel, having unfortunately had to retire from the track again with health issues, waved them down from her car.  Cath flourished a stove and stated that Gail had dropped it off for my use until I could get my own sorted.  To just get in contact with her once I was done with it, and she would come and pick it up. What an amazing thing to do for a complete stranger.  To purposely be there, to pass it over.  To trust me with it.  Incredible kindness.  And then Cath even carried it for me!  What to say…except thank you.  Truely. 

A few kilometers before camp I pull into a roadside cafe.  Charge up with a toasted sandwich, chips and a beer.  I’m feeling pretty damn relaxed, when a text comes from home.  Nanna has taken a turn.  She’s not great.  More news to come later.

It’s a punch to the guts.  And all I can think about when I start walking again.  She’s old, my nanna.  In her 90’s.  A living legend. 

I don’t mind admitting that I started to cry.  I suddenly felt a long, long way away from those I love and who love me.  In my opinion, one of the worst things about Covid is the loneliness it begets on the elderly.  After such a tremendous life, to not be able to be surrounded by loved ones, is a travesty.  It all just makes me so sad.

But nanna is a fighter.  And an inspiration for what I am currently attempting to achieve.  And there’s nothing I can realistically do anyway.  Except just keep walking.  And hope she improves.  It’s tough though.  When you take away all the stress of daily life, it leaves a lot of space for thought.  My nanna will take up a lot of that space in the next few days.  Which is a lovely thing…

Ironically, I’m at Grandpa’s camp tonight.  I don’t think anyone will mind, if, just for the night, it becomes Grandma’s Camp.  That’s how I’ll think of it anyway. 

Total Distance – 837.1km

A Heysen Trail Story

AAAARRRRRRRRGGGGGGG!! This morning I had a full on hissy fit. Swearing, muttering, angry. It’s the first I’ve felt real anger on this whole trip.

The reason? My stove has died. It actually died last night, so I ended up eating cheese on stale Naan Bread for dinner. I had been hoping that it was just too cold to operate my gas cannisters properly. Yes, that’s right…cannisters. I’m actually carrying two at the moment. So I slept with the full one tucked in the bottom of my sleeping bag, under the understanding that this morning everything would be working as usual. Wrong. Things weren’t working at all.

No coffee and it was freezing cold. Ice covering everything. Water dripping. And I lost it. Big time. AAARRGGGGGG!!!! Straight into my pillow.

It didn’t last long and once I got it out I felt better. Might as well get on with the messy pack up. At just the right time, Gail, coffee angel, yelled out hello and I sadly explained my plight. With that, she returned to her tent, grabbed her stove and set me up to boil some water. Heaven on a freezing cold morning. Thank you Gail for that kindness.

In a cunning, and maybe ill conceived plan, I ordered a new stove and had it sent Express to the small town of Kersbrook which I will pass tomorrow. It’ll be a 4km round trip detour into town, but if I can pull it off I’ll be happy. If it doesn’t arrive in time I’m not sure what I’ll do. Scream again probably.

Luckily, today’s walking was wonderful, relieving me of my gear woes for a while.

First up, a ridgetop walk over Little Mt Crawford. A beautiful bush track lined with banksias and basaltic rock. Sweeping views off to the left when given the opportunity.

The track descended into the forestry zone, lined with pines. A series of boardwalks crossed a marshy area, water black as tar with the tannins. Fantails and silvereyes darting to the waters edge. Roos lounging on the grassy fields.

The track then entered the Watts Gully Conservation Reserve. A road steeply climbing to a tower high point before transforming into an excellent bush track lined with flowering plants of multiple colours and varieties. This sort of track is why I love to walk, and it was so wonderful to snake down the mountain, losing all directional context.

The campground is busy! A group of school kids here as well. Once again, Cath and Greg have promised to come to my rescue and provide me with the boiling water I need for dinner. Legends.

There’s a little sun this afternoon, so I’m lapping it up. It promises to be another very cold night. For everyone’s sake, let’s hope my cunning plan comes off tomorrow. Otherwise, the screaming may begin in ernest. Again.

Total Distance – 815.1km

A Heysen Trail Story

It was a wet old night last night. Sporadic rain all the way through. There’s nothing quite like putting wet shoes and socks on in the morning after a chilly night!

I was really slow off the mark this morning. Cath and Greg had left before I even got up and out of my tent. But it was nice to just beetle around and pretend I was drying a few things out at least.

By the time I got started the modest sunshine had turned to rain. Another cold hands kind of a day.

Scenery wise, there was little to get really excited about this morning. The track mainly following roads through a forestry area and surrounds. I did meet Josh – a young fellow I had heard about who was attempting to run the Heysen trail in 21 days a a way of raising awareness and funds for Black Dog. He’d already run 15km by the time I met up with him, and had about 40 more to do before day’s end. What a legend. Him, and his support crew of one.

The walk really got interesting around Mt Crawford. “Are those….stairs?” I said to myself, incredulous. They were indeed, and up I went. At the top I met Sam. Urchin like in bare feet, a big football guernsey and ripped pants. Beaming smile and interested attitude. We talked for a long time. Me about the trail, Norfolk Island, and my reasons for wanting to do this walk. Her about her love of the Fleurieu Pennisular, the small house she was building on a block with 8 others, and the reason she was up on the hill. A fight with her partner. We both agreed wholeheartedly that nature has a way of calming down every situation and bringing it back to good. It was a pleasure to meet and talk with her.

The track from the summit wound down the mountain through swales of large banksias. The first I’ve seen on this walk. From the base, just a short stroll into the campground. It’s a huge area, and there are three groups here – all Heysen walkers. Cath and Greg. And I’ve just met Gail who is doing the Adelaide Hills section following some unexpected injuries which have impeded her end to end attempt.

It’s lovely to have an old wooden table to sit at, and the rain has held off for the afternoon. The magpies are singing. We are all preparing for a very cold night tonight.

Total Distance – 792.1km

A Heysen Trail Story

“And in, what I assume is not a first for this family…I’ve just had two desserts! 😊😊”

Text to my support crew

Well. I didn’t end up joining anything last night. In fact, it was a struggle just to roll back to the hotel room after the gigantic meal I had! What a meal it was though. The restaurant, 1918, was set in an old house, and I was placed right next to a roaring fire. All of my courses, entree, main and two desserts, were absolutely delicious. It was such a nice night out, and felt rather well deserved.

So, in the grip of a food coma, I heard nothing of the revelry downstairs and drifted off into a blissful sleep.

In the morning, more food. A cafe for breakfast. The weather changes from lovely, warm sunshine to pelting down rain. The run of warmth is over.

It’s a short and lovely walk to Rossiter’s Hut. This is especially true of the second half, through the Kaiserstuhl Conservation Reserve. The track here was lined with stringybarks, colourful wattles and fuscias and large granitic boulders. It was lovely being back on a forested track after days of pastures and roads.

I arrived at the small hut around 11.30 and barely had time to open the door before a blast of rain and hail bucketed down. A good time for a hot mocha.

Before long a knock on the door and there stood a bedraggled looking Cath and Greg. They had walked through the worst of the storm and were keen to get inside. It was great to catch up with them again after a few days.

I’ve been in my tent all afternoon trying to warm up. Again the temperature has halved in one day. But to be warm and dry, tucked up in my sleeping bag and enjoying my book….you can’t ask for more than that. Very lucky.

Total Distance – 781.3km

A Heysen Trail Story

Not a great deal to tell today. Basically it was all about getting from one town to another. Scenery average and pretty much all on roads. Still, it was flat and the kilometers passed quickly.

I reached Tanunda by 11.30am and stopped in at a lovely cafe for brunch. At some point in the future I’m going to have to begin curtailing what I order, but at the moment I can just go for it. I have a large chocolate milkshake, a vegetarian burger with a side of potato slices, huge chai tea and a lemon curd tart. Filled the spot.

The pub were generous enough to allow me to get into my room early. It mightn’t be the most luxurious bathroom I’ve ever been in, but my little ensuite feels like an absolute treat.

The atmosphere in town is one of excitement! One of the Adelaide AFL teams is playing in a preliminary final tonight and all the venues are expecting big crowds. I decide to book into one of fancier restaurants in town and treat myself to a non pub meal. Enjoy the quiet whilst I can. And later, I’ll see. Sometimes the best attitude is, “If you can’t beat ’em, join ’em!”.

Total Distance – 768.6km

A Heysen Trail Story

I enjoyed Kapunda. Beautiful little town with lovely architectural buildings and churches, great little art gallery, and pubs galore.

I stayed at the Sir John Franklin Hotel last night. The rooms seem to be getting more and more….quaint. This one had no bathroom, but did have a little washing basin. I assume so the men could shave back in the day. I turned the tap on. The water ran copper, then clear, then black, then clear. I decided to get my water elsewhere.

Like many of the pubs before this one, the female bathroom was located right at the far extreme of the accommodation area, and consisted of one toilet with a door that didn’t close properly. Next door was a separate shower room, with a cracked sliding shower screen and small sink squeezed in next to it. When I jumped in the shower, the low pressure spray went everywhere but down. Not particularly satisfying.

I mention this because I was lying in bed in the middle of the night needing to go. The thought of trudging to the bathroom was both preventing me from getting up, and from going back to sleep. I hit on an idea. The male bathroom was much more central. In fact, it was right next door to me. There was hardly anyone here. I’d just duck in there and go.

Decision made, I got up and stumbled next door. To receive the shock and surprise of my life. I rubbed my sleepy eyes. This couldn’t be right. Because here was a gleaming, large bathroom. Three or four huge shower cubicles. Glistening tiles. Sparkling chrome showerheads. A toilet door that worked. Hand towels at all the basins. A little bowl of soaps at the sink. “What the hell!?” I breathed to myself.

I thought back to all the “female” bathrooms I had been in on my pub tour. The location of each. How dilapidated and unkept many of them seemed. Is this just a “thing”? I understand that pubs were primarily the domain of males back in the day. But really? A little modern day spruce up wouldn’t hurt.

Again, not the greatest scenery for walking again today. The 19km went by very quickly on roads, along paddock creeks and fencelines. I reached the Greenock Oval by 1pm. A popular spot for caravanners – but who can blame them. Just $5 to stay the night, with a free bbq, toilets and cold shower. Can’t complain about that.

I’m keen to set up quickly and enjoy my afternoon. Head to the local brewery and get a light beer. Everything went smoothly. That is, until I tried to put the fly on the tent. And realised I must have left four of my pegs back at the Kapunda Caravan Park. That’ll teach me for sending my spares home.

I wasn’t quite sure what to do. Bad weather predicted to be on the way. Possible hail. Nothing available in the general store. If I ordered it today would it reach Tanunda by tomorrow? In the end I decided to get the taxi, travel 8km to the closest Mitre 10, get pegs, and taxi back. Cost of the pegs – $5.40. Cost of the taxi – $36.10. And the pegs are much heavier than the ones I lost. That’ll teach me. But I feel good about being able to secure my tent for the next few days. I’ll get some lighter ones sent further on. I feel like I’m doing my best to keep Australia Post solvent.

But I’m at the Brewery now, and enjoying a light English bitter. Jazz is playing on the speakers and it’s a sunny afternoon. Things definitely aren’t all bad…

Total Distance – 749.8km

A Heysen Trail Story

Walking on a dream

How can I explain

Talking to myself

Will I see again?

We are always running for the thrill of it, thrill of it

Always pushing up the hill, searching for the thrill of it

On and on and on we’re calling out, out again

Never looking down, I’m just in awe of what’s in front of me

Walking on a Dream, Empire of the Sun

I felt really inspired this morning. I had my music on for the first time in a long time. The sun was shining for the first time in days. I was walking along a ridgetop with inspiring views on either side. Like a solar charged battery I felt myself getting stronger and stronger. I sang out loud and felt invincible and free.

And in this moment I wanted to test myself. See how far I had come. What I could do. I decided that if I reached the next campgound, in around 22 kilometres time, and I was feeling good, I would continue on to Kapunda. A long day, but doable. I picked up my pace and set off.

I made the decision that I was just going to go for it not long afterwards. I just felt so damn good. Floating, as Pierre would say. And there would be some great rewards. My tent was absolutely saturated from the dewy morning. I could set up at the caravan park, grab a hot shower and a feed, dry my tent out in the morning while cafe dining, wash my clothes, and then walk the kilometer to get to my pub hotel room for the evening. Decision made.

And so I went for it. To be fair, it was a good day for going such a distance. Not fantastic scenery and relatively flat. It was easy to fang it. I got to the campground by 1pm and was happy with my decision. Whilst it was lovely and treed, the whole site was on a rather steep slope. Time to keep on keeping on.

In the end I completed the almost 37km fairly easily. I arrived at the campground by 4pm. A slight hobble, but pretty much no worse for wear than any other day. And a steamy hot shower definitely made it all worth it. Pizza at the pub and a great sleep on a flat campsite the icing on the cake.

And today? I feel absolutely fine. Which I am rather shocked about. It’s like I’ve become a bit of a superhuman. Just through walking. It’s bizzare and brilliant. How I wish I could always feel like this. A goal to aspire to I suppose.

In the meantime, I’ll just keep enjoying this amazing experience and being grateful for all it is doing for me.

Total Distance – 715.1km

A Heysen Trail Story

The big news today is in the title. 40 days I’ve been doing this now. And I’ve travelled over 700km. 700km on foot. It’s actually kind of hard to take in. Doesn’t seem real somehow. But I have the signs to prove it!

This morning a thick blanket of fog covered the campsite. Tents dripping. It stayed fairly overcast for most of the day. But for just a little while this afternoon, beautiful sunshine. What a simple pleasure.

It was a long day comparatively. And not one of the best in terms of scenery. Pleasant though, passing through many nature corridors between paddocks.

The highlight of the day was a lunch stop at the park at Marabel. It was full of fascinating information about the towns history, all displayed on tiles, which, when pieced together displayed many beautiful artworks. It was such a lovely feature in such a small town. A town which, it became clear, was very famous for it’s legendary rodeos.

The second highlight was the little hut itself. Set on a hill side with amazing views. There are 5 of us here tonight! Cath and Greg. And two section hikers, getting back into the hobby after a 12 year absence. In the glittery sunshine it’s an easy decision for me to camp. In fact, we all decide to.

There are a group of sheep making a huge ruckus and grazing near the tent. It would be quite idyllic if I wasn’t watching one of them regurgitating right outside my house. Come on mate! Why right there? I suppose it’s their home more than mine. I’m just an interloper.

The sun is making the tent really warm and cosy, so after a long day’s walk I think I’ll lie down and have a little read. Perfect.

Total Distance – 689.5km

A Heysen Trail Story

What a treat last night was.  Cath and Greg’s friend, John, had bought along  a bottle of 2012 Laughing Magpie red and a block of chocolate.  Both of which they generously shared with me.  So kind.

Again I think about how lucky I have been to have Cath and Greg (and all their friends!) for company.  It really has changed the trajectory of my walk for the better.  I’m not certain how much longer we’ll be walking together for.  The upcoming section is logistically tricky, with many options available.  It’ll be very interesting to see how it all pans out.  Regardless, I couldn’t have asked for better walking companions.  Many good conversations have been had.  And I haven’t had to get the headphones on and dance around to ward off the spooks at an isolated campground once!

It was a magical little day of walking today.  No sign of any sunshine, but the wind died off and there was no rain, allowing the opportunity just to slow down a bit.  Take things in.

Essentially the walk followed a wildlife corridor.  Mountains to the left and glowing canola fields to the right.  Giant windfarm propellers spun lazily in the distance.  Birdlife was plentiful.  Galahs screetching and kurrawongs chorasing.  I enjoyed all the chatter.

The walk finished with a sharp, but small uphill section through bushland and over rocky scree.  I settle into my tent for an afternoon of planning and reading.  Absolutely thrilled that it is not bitterly cold outside.  It’s a really pleasant way to end a lovely day. 

I then climbed to the top of Smith Hill for sunset. I must have been so engrossed and still that a rather large kangaroo must have mistook me for a tree. He came loping over and stood right beside me, looking out as well. I turned slowly, and he startled. We acknowledged each other for a while, before he quietly slunk away. I enjoyed watching the sunset with him. It was certainly a good one.

Total Distance – 676.1km

A Heysen Trail Story

Chilly, chilly, chilly last night. We got a warming, occassionally smoky fire going in the beautiful old fire place. However, it made little difference to the overall night chills. A warm night would be very pleasant indeed.

As would a day without sleet like rain and lashings of wind. How I long for a stroll on a gleaming spring day. Sun warming the body and spirits. Today wasn’t that day.

Which is a bit of a shame really, because the walk was really wonderful. Straight through the guts of a farm, wonderfully treed along the creekline. Stony mountains on the left hand side. A canola farm in the distance radiates summer. The reality is stinging rain and cold fog.

Up through a granitic pass, the rain dies off causing chattering finches and crooning magpie larks to celebrate. The bushland is old and well preserved. A shelter from the wind.

The second part of the day follows a little used dirt road adjacent to farmland and eucalypts. Lovely, easy walking. Until right at the end, a steep hill rises to camp. I climb it quickly, hopeful that finally, finally, finally I might be able to make that birthday phone call. And sure enough, success!

I spend my afternoon in the tent chatting with the head of my support crew and making plans. Kind of getting too the pointy end of the stick now. And the proximity to Adelaide means bookings become more necessary.

It’s a nice way to spend the afternoon on a chilly day. Cath and Greg have another friend, John, camping with them tonight. So it’s time for all of us to brave the elements and see about our dinners!