Sunshine Coast Great Walk – Day 3

Ubajee Campsite to Thilba Thalba Campsite – 14km

“Here comes the rain!”

What a wonderful day of walking!  I’d had it in mind that I needed to start early.  Rain was forecast for later in the afternoon and there were several creek crossings to be made in the morning which were described as being impassable if heavy. With such a short distance today, I was also hoping to get into camp and set up before the clouds burst.

Little fairy garden camp site
Morning cuppa

I was on my way by just after 7am.  It was a gorgeous morning.  Cloudy, brisk and perfect for walking. The first couple of kilometers led downhill toward Gheerulla falls.  The track was a lovely mix of eucalypts, palms and grass trees interspersed with purple flowering pea.

Track down to the falls
A constant companion on the walk

At the bottom of the mountain, I veered off for a quick detour to the falls.  They were running briskly, steamy mist rising from the surface.

More morning contemplation…of a watery nature

Back on the track, I followed the creek for several kilometers.  This was primo walking.  Nice and flat, variety  of vegetation, pools of murky water, heaps of birdlife.  I crossed the creeks with no problem – no wet feet, though I imagine after some rain there could be some issues.

Such a beautiful, flat walking track
Crossing one of the creeks – sans rain
Morning tea break – right before the first of the showers hit

Heading slightly uphill, I came to a small clearing with an expansive view.  Time for a break.  As I watched, the clouds rolled in and it began to sprinkle.  It wasn’t heavy, and served to create an eerie atmospheric mist through the forest. 

The track started to rise higher.  Now there were numerous yellow wildflowers and bristly banksias.  From here, it was a steep climb back up to the top.  Lots of switchbacks made it really manageable, and with plenty of time, I rested as much as I wanted to. It was a great workout none the less.

Eventually, I was right up high again.  A break in the trees provided the opportunity for an amazing view off into the distance.  I could see rain clouds on the way. 

View point gets higher and higher and higher and higher!
Rain clouds on their way

At the top, I reached Thilba Thalba lookout and was able to see the mountain I had descended in the morning; the creek I had walked alongside; and, the ginormous mountain I had climbed.  I love it when you can see where you came from.

View from Thilba Thalba lookout
It’s getting more and more cloudy!

On the way to camp I started reflecting on why I love walking so much.  I’ve thought this before, but it was reinforced again today.  It’s because it makes me feel like I have a superpower.  For every step I take, that feeling grows.  It means that I have made some good decisions, that I’ve been fit enough, that I’ve had the will power and the want to succeed.  It means that I’ve moved out of my comfort zone, and at times, put myself in moments of deep discomfort.  Each step is an achievement.  And each step makes me feel invincible.  It’s an amazing feeling being able to rely fully on yourself.

I reached camp around 12.30pm and quickly began the task of setting up my tent.Nice hot lunch, and a trip to the viewing platform where it was windy, dark and grey.  Not long after, the first fat droplets of rain splattered down on to the picnic table.  Retreat!  Retreat!  and into the tent I bustled.

View from the campsite

That was at about 2.30pm. The rain drizzled on for about 3 hours before tapering off for a bit. I took the chance to don my raingear and head outside. Nothing to see here. Wet, wet, wet. I managed to get to the bathroom before the floodgates opened again. Small mercies.

Back in the tent…and this time for the long haul. There’s only so much you can say about it. Cooking, gearing up for bed, boredom…all in a cramped space. Nothing to be done.

View from the tent

I had been hoping to listen to a couple of podcasts before bed. No such luck. My brand new power bank died unexpectedly. I had gotten an Anker based on the reviews, but for some reason, this one seems like a dud. Trouble charging and now this…I’m gonna have to look for a replacement before the next walk.

So time to turn off the phone to conserve battery (no reception anyways), read the kindle and snooze. I kept thinking just how lucky I was – to be warm and dry, whilst the rain pelted down outside. What a feeling, to be warm, fed, and safe.

Final thought….this has to be a wombat head doesn’t it?

Come on! Has to be!

Sunshine Coast Great Walk – Day 2

Flaxton Walkers Camp to Ubajee Walkers Camp – 14km

“Wait what?!  I’m here already!”

People who know me know that I have one innate fear…rodents.  (Well that and semi trailers moving without the back attached – thanks Terminator).  I am absolutely shit scared of the busy, scrabbly, gnawy little critters. 

And I saw one.  Last night.  At around 6pm.  That was it – I jumped in my tent and didn’t come out.  That’s a long night of staying alert to any potential activity…ready to hit the torch at a moments notice!  I must have tired myself out with stress, cos I fell asleep about 8.30pm and didn’t wake till 5am.  For campers on an air mattress – you’ll know that is one long, uninterupted kip!

So I was off early again.  It was a beautiful walk down to Baxter Falls.  A soft gradient and stunning scenery.  The falls were lovely.  Gushy and rocky.  But a bit too cold and early for a swim. 

Morning cuppa!
Now you see it…
Now you don’t!
Track down to Baxter Falls
Morning contemplation
Funky lil swing bridge at Baxter Falls…who doesn’t love a good bridge when they are walking!

Next up, a long climb back uphill.  But how good it was!  So many lovely switchbacks, it really was rather pleasant.  Nothing like the straight up and down horrors of the Great North Walk. 

One of the downsides of being a ranger (and let’s be honest, there are very few) is the ability to spot weeds in what looks like a pristine environment.  Amazing how well they thrive, whatever the circumstances.  There wasn’t heaps – mostly Lantana and William Taylor – but enough to remind me of work!

At the top of the hill, I commenced a short road walk into the Mapleton Falls picnic ground.  Nice footpath.  No dramas.

The area hosts a picnic ground and lookout, with an amazing view off into the distance.  I had been planning to have lunch here, but it was way too early, so after a quick stop, headed off again.

From here to the campsite, the walk was beautiful and flat and beautiful and scenic.  Palm forests that reminded me of home, towering eucalypts, ephemeral creeks.

Creek crossing in the palm forest. 
Massive eucalypts

There was a poignant moment when I came across a memorial garden of sorts.  One stick had been planted for each Australian who has died of Covid 19.  A little card kept tally of the date and the numbers.  It was quite sureal seeing it, out in what seemed like the middle of nowhere, and a stark reminder that things are simply not good with the world.

Covid 19 stick memorial.  One stick for each death in Australia.

I made my campsite by 12.30pm.  Again, really nice choice of spots.  I cooked up some cous cous for lunch, blew up my sleeping matt, and lay out on a table for a read and a nap.  I’m reading “The Running Man” at the moment.  My brother and I absolutely loved the movie as youngsters, and I must say that I am really enjoying the book!

The rest of the afternoon consisted of taking half of my possessions to the Ubajee Lookout, soaking in the warmth, and enjoying the sinking of the sun.  Pastels, pinks and oranges were subtle in the sky.  I ate my dinner just as the sun disappeared behind the mountain.

Sunny afternoon
Filters into dusk
Descends into evening
Last light
Dinner time

Back at camp, I wrestled with the night noises. Once more, I was the sole occupant of the campsites, and I envisaged an army of rodents making plans to attack my campsite as soon as I let my guard down….

With some words from the head of my support crew, I rallied. I couldn’t go to bed at 6pm again! Distraction! Thats what I needed! I unpacked my headphones, put on the tunes, and belted out the songs like nobody was listening. Which they weren’t. I resolved to conquer my fear by visiting every campsite and dancing on every table. Which I did. Crisis averted! I was in bed by 7.30pm.

Sunshine Coast Great Walk – Day 1

Lake Baroon to Flaxton Walkers Camp – 16.9km + Montville Apartments to Baroon Dam – 5km

“Just Cruising”

I had a really nice time in Montville.  It’s a lovely little mountain town, full of quirky shops and eateries.  Had an early dinner with the eye on the prize of heading back to my room and lighting the fire.  Mission accomplished.  It felt like a very luxurious way to start the walk.

Fire and wine…not too shabby!

Although I had set my alarm for 7am, I bounded out of bed at the crack of dawn..literally.  With a 5km walk to get from my accommodation down to the start point, I decided to get on my way.

The air was crisp and cool.  Vapour breath.  The first few km passed very quickly with lots of interesting houses and roadside markets to look at.  My alarm going off scared the shit out of me!

I came to an intersection and was told there was to be a very steep descent for the next 2km.  They weren’t wrong!  But slow and steady and it was fine.  And I was incredibly grateful I wasn’t going the other way…that would have been a hellish way to begin or end the walk!

Before long I arrived at the start point.  Immediately it was beautiful.  Luscious green and soft underfoot. 

Back on track!

The track was lovely.  Well marked, and for the most part fairly flat.  I’ve struggled with my AARN bags over the years…wrong size for one and then breakages on another.  But boy oh boy was I pleased that I went with my gut and got another one.  This time – the Featherlite Freedom.  They may look weird.  They may cause a few sniggers.  But man, when they are working, it’s like magic.  So much weight, and you barely feel a thing.  Yep, magic I tells ya.

Highlights of the morning included a couple of lookouts.  Red rock and green dappled with the morning sun.  A soft, green river framed by the surrounding trees, but sluggish and dangerous looking in it’s stillness.  The rocks and spray of Kondawilla falls.  Big, fat monitor lizards basking in the sun.  The crack of the whipbird, the melody of the whistler and the cackle of the kookaburra.  And numerous opaque blue waterholes.

Pool at “The Narrows” lookout
Slimy green river, but oh how beautiful!
Crazy colour
Lovely grassy track…where does it lead?
Playing chicken with a big, fat monitor lizard

Right before lunch, after a set of steep stairs, I was able to stop in at “The Rockpools”  where I took the opportunity to refresh in the freezing water.

The “Rockpools”
Never pass up the opportunity to soak your poor, old feet

I made it to the Kondawilla picnic ground by lunchtime, feeling really pleased with my steady pace.  From here, I had less than 5km to campground.  In the spirit of making sure that I enjoy this walk more than I was able to on the Great North Walk, I pulled out my stove and cooked up some noodles for lunch.  A couple of kookaburras and a couple of bush turkeys were my companions.   My very eagle eyed companions.

I set off again.  Another road walk.  Not too bad though.  Before long I exited the road and was back in the bush.  Quick call to the head of my support crew and I sauntered off for the final km to camp.

View from a section of the road walk

The campsite is really nice.  There are about 12 spaces.  All really private and framed by ferns.  Although there was heaps of day walkers out today, it appears that I am to be the only camper here for the night.  I can already tell that I am going to be a little creeped out by the night noises…

Feels so, SO good to be back into it again!

Post PCT and the Covid Blues

In a post covid world the PCT dream is shattered. I take solice on the Sunshine Coast Great Walk

How’s everyone doing?  It’s been a hell of a ride, hasn’t it…

I must say, I’ve been struggling a bit.  It’s all a little…overwhelming.  I’ve found it terribly hard to step back from the dream of the PCT.  The planning, the prep, the all consuming thoughts, the training, the adventure.  Though on the other hand, I’ve watched in horrid fascination from the beautiful safety of Norfolk Island and said to myself over and over….”Thank God I’m not there.  Thank God I’m not there….”.

It’s all left me a bit down.  I see you nodding.  “Join the club Mel”.  I know, I know.  But this is MY story. 

You may recall that I free-wheeled after realising the PCT was a no go.  I had plans to go to Western Australia and try the Bibbulman Track.  Followed by walking the length of New Zealand on the Te Araroa.  Neither of those things are happening.  Borders closed.  Instead, I’ve snuck (hey, hey…not literally…I’ve followed all the rules!) into QLD.  I’ve grabbed all my brand new gear that’s been anxiously waiting for me since March, and I’m going to hit a few walking tracks.

So, adorned in my mask, I’ve left the safety of Norfolk and flown into Brisbane.  Selfish??  I don’t know.  It’s an argument that’s been circling in my head since I made the decision.  In my mind, it’s a calculated risk.  Others may not agree.  All I can do, is my best.

Travelling…corona style

The International Terminal was terribly creepy in it’s loneliness.  No buzz and bustle.  Just sombre silence.  A stark reminder of the state of the world at the moment.  Perhaps the only positive, free booze on the plane.  However, even I – lover of red wine, am able to say with certainty –  I wish things were normal.  And that I wish I had had to pay.

I saw my family!  Well, the majority of them.  Mum, Dad, sister, husband, niece, nephew.  It was wonderful!  Because you worry.  And you stress.  When you’re at a distance.  But this was all so…normal.  We picniced and played cards and danced and checked out all the new kid’s stuff.  Just what the doctor ordered.  The only down side…. My brother and my fella missing from the party.  However, they are fulfilling the most important function of all – the care of Bronte the wonder dog. Respect men!

This morning I set off on the train to get started on my walking holiday.  The Sunshine Coast Great Walk is the first cab off the rank.

My family often say that I always seem to attract “interesting” people to me…Case in point….First off, a fellow directly behind me who was singing “swing lo!  sweet chariot” over and over again.  Not the whole thing.  Just that line.  And in a voice which really didn’t have much of a timbre to it.  He got off the train after about 15 excrutiating minutes.

Next up, a young “metrosexual” type who seemed to be crackling with energy.  He sat across the isle from me.  At one point he said to me “Look I’m just going to be filming something over here…be assured the camera is pointed at me though”.  Oh, just a bit of scenery filming I thought.  “No worries.  Go ahead”.  Turns out this guy was making a half hour video for his “millions” of YouTube followers.  An expert in “supreme confidence”, this guy was an officianado in religion, the vortex method, and…confidence.  There were mantras galore – he unexpectedly received 65 thousand dollars over the course of three days!  And miracle after miracle!  And all you have to do is pay 10% of your income!  He’ll accept the money.  He’s a priest.  And will invest it wisely in others.  His video was halted when another passenger exclaimed “Did God let you know that you’re annoying all the other passengers!”  End of You Tube video.  Sad for his millions of followers. 

So, now I am in Montville.  A little village high on the hill with vast views out to the coast.  It’s cold and delicious.  I’m packed and ready.  58km and around 5km to get to the start point.  3 nights and 4 days.

I absolutely CANNOT wait! This has been like an itch that I just can’t scratch.  I need to get something out of my system.  Have an opportunity to rethink.  Come up with some new goals.  The PCT feels like a lost dream I’m afraid. Time to scratch the itch!

“I can’t believe I’m starting out…like this!”

GREAT NORTH WALK – DAY 1 (Part A)

Traveller’s Obelisk (Macquarie Park, Sydney) to Lane Cove Tourist Park

Distance: 21.36km

I can’t believe it….I honestly can’t believe it! All the planning. All the anticipation. All the spending. And I’m starting out…like this…..

To backtrack… Earlier in the year I had made the exciting, but fraught decision that I was willing, ready and able to hike the Pacific Crest Trail – all 4200 km of it – and that this would occur in the immediate future. With this in mind I went on a frenzy of information gathering – the only way that counts these days – Youtube videos. Here, I was advised unequivocally, that 1. I must get my pack weight as low as possible; 2. I must do a “shakedown” hike in order to test and refine both my gear and attitude; and, 3. I must train and train and train.

I took this advice very seriously. Old gear was out the door, and a slew of spending ensued – a new tent, backpack, shoes, water filters, cook system…you name it, I bought it. A “shakedown hike” was planned. I had to go to Sydney anyway to apply for my US visa. I would take all my new gear, and hike the Great North Walk. “Australia’s most accessible long distance trail”. From Sydney to Newcastle, this 250km hike was bound to test out my new gear and fill me with confidence and inspiration for the long hike to come! And I trained. With my superstar training partner, Bronte the dog, I walked around and around and around tiny Norfolk Island…enough times to make myself dizzy…

None of this has gone to plan…

And so it arrives. Morning of. D Day. Ground zero. This is it! All the preparation; all the training; all the anticipation, it’s all about to come together in one big, amazingly well executed walk!! Ummmmm. No. Nothing could be further from the truth!

I awoke in a fever induced haze. All night long, hot, cold, shivering, sweating. My voice! I couldn’t talk. What about the amazing vlog I was going to put together! With sick, tired eyes I examined my gear. My old gear. Delays in shipping to Norfolk Island had meant that none of my shiny, new, light, painstakingly selected gear had arrived! This included shoes. I glanced at the brand new pair sitting on the floor….same as my old ones, but without a single use. Straight out of the box. This was not how I imagined it would go! It was decision time…To go – sickness, old gear, new shoes and all. Or stay – Cozy up in the nice soft bed, and try and tame this flu.

I chose to go.

My plan is to go on the attack, so I’m going to head to the start point very soon. Busted out some new gaiters to go with my new shoes. #blistersforsure

Me…to a friend in a text message.
New gaiters. New shoes.

I pack up and get going. In hindsight, I wish beyond anything that I’d thrown some tissues in my bag. As I set out towards the starting point, the Travellers Obelisk, in Macquarie Park, I realise that although I’m sick, and things have gone wrong, I’m excited!! Time for the real challenge to begin.