K’gari (Fraser Island) Great Walk – Day 1

Dilli Village to Lake Benaroon – 15km, plus travel to the island

“So good to be back!”

I have visited Fraser Island – now called K’gari – many times over the years.  The first was as a young girl, aged maybe 8 or 9, with my family.  I remember travelling in an old, open air jeep named “Apache”.  We flew through creeks, swam in lakes, rolled in sand dunes, and I remember feeling that this was one of the most exciting days of my young life!  We visited a few times as a family.

Later, all grown up and at the ripe, old age of 20, I again visited the island – this time with my TAFE class.  Advanced Certificate in Outdoor Guiding is what we were doing.  It was an amazing course!  We travelled all around the country side, and my love affair with hiking began with lessons in types of gear, how to pack a pack, and navigation.  I remember thinking to myself “I would like to work here one day…”

One day arrived a few years later, when I began work as a tour guide for the then, newly established and completely environmentally innovative, Kingfisher resort.  My god, I had a good time!  It was a mecca for young folks, and we all rocked it!

So now, more than 20 years later I am back.  And really excited to experience the place again.

I slept well and was up with my alarm.  Iced coffee, sausage roll and a custard tart for brekky.  Can’t beat it.  I was able to easily hail the local taxi driver, who again re-iterated that it’s been amazingly busy.  Folks travelling in their own backyard under the circumstances.  Perhaps one positive to come out of Covid….

He dropped me at the ferry, and I was able to walk straight on board.  There was Catherine!  How nice to see a friendly face.  Sadly, she let me know that Pauline was unable to make it with a medical problem.  Hopefully she’ll get the all clear and be able to join her sister later in the week.  I really felt for them both. 

Arriving on the island we awaited the taxi service.  Catherine walked the Bibbulman track a couple of years ago as a birthday present to herself.  It was great to get her insights into it whilst we waited.

The taxi arrived and ferried us up the beach to Dilli Village, the start point of the walk.  Here I said my goodbyes to Catherine.  I only have 5 days here, whilst she had 8, so I am hustling a little faster than her.

I set off.  The first 4km of track was through dry scrub, following a sand dune ridgeline to the top.  A small side track enabled a view of a small sandblow.

Nothing like the start of a new track!
Avenue of fox tail fern

The first stop of real significance was Lake Boomajin.  I came across the walkers camp, looking all safe and secure fenced off from the local thugs, the dingoes.  Nearby was a large, fenced, car camping area as well.  I walked past both of these, hoping for a more secluded point of entry to the lake.

My wish was granted!  What a view!  Walking lakeside for a couple of km was fantastic.  White sand, brown and purple stained lake, green reeds, patches of colour, little creeks, and wonderful aloneness.  It was so good!

Little coloured creeks
Amazing coloured landscape
Lonely looking reeds

Eventually, I left the lake and recommenced forest walking.  This time in forest with some extremely tall, large trees.  Some areas had been burnt, others not.  It was easy walking, mostly flat, and it wasn’t long before I arrived at my campsite.

Huh.  No dingo fence.  And no one else at the camp.  This could be…interesting.  There was big dingo boxes at each campsite, and I enjoyed setting up and just throwing everything in the box rather than the tent.  Rain is expected tonight, so it should all stay nice and dry without impeding on my sleeping space!

Next up, a trip down to Lake Benaroon.  Little bit windy, but beautiful and sunny.  What’s a girl to do when there is no-one else around, but to strip off and plunge in the water!  Oh so refreshing.  And kind of naughty too.  Can’t beat it.

Swim time!
Carnivorous little sundew

I sat on the shore drying off and spent a pleasant few hours patrolling the lake shore and reading.  I have to say, this is probably the most relaxed I’ve felt over the last couple of weeks.  In the swing of it and just loving every second.

I returned to the lake on sunset. Nobody else arrived, so I have the place to myself. I have a wonderful time paddling and watching the refections change on the water. It is absolutely serene.

Sunset wanderings
The very definition of still

Later, up at the campsite, I hear it. The first menacing growl. Not a dingo, but thunder. The sky growls again and I can see clouds, dark and ominous, scudding on the horizon.

I hasten to finish my dinner and chores before the storm hits. Just as I’m finishing, the first heavy drop plops down. The sky flashes silver. It’s here.

I dive into my shelter and watch the sparks crackle across the sky. The tent lights up like a disco strobe inside. Rain pelts the roof and the sky roars. I feel utterly snug and safe – despite the co-threats of dingoes and an electrical storm. This I can handle. Rats, I cannot.

Cooloola Geat Walk – Day Five

Kauri Walkers Camp to Carlo Carpark – 14km

“Rat attack”

I did not sleep well. I always leave my bag outside, and am very careful about putting all my scraps in my Opsak bag (apparently no odour). However, I was lying in my bed trying restlessly to sleep when I heard a crinkle, crinkle. Snap on the torch. Nothing. But now I’m wired. I should have moved my bag inside. But I didn’t. Again with the restless sleeping. And again with the crinkle, crinkle. I sat bolt upright and looked outside. Nothing. Looked at my bag with the torch through the mesh, and holy mother of god there is a hole in the mesh! Those little….shits.

I moved the bag inside , but then had another problem…what if the rat had gone into the bag and now I had inadvertently transferred said rodent inside! I started sweating at the thought. And tossing and turning. And tossing and turning. There was no rodent. But I slept the sleep of a woman facing her worst fear. That is to say, I didn’t sleep well.

Evidence!

Packed up, I got away a little later than usual. Most of the group had already left before me.

Lovely track on the last day of the walk

As I walked I was thinking about the connections between the small group of people I had been walking with. Pauline, avid plant lover and horticulturist is friends with folks on Norfolk. I had drinks with one of them a couple of weeks ago. The sister, Catherine, self assured and also a horticulturist knows the mother of the two Greek sisters.

Travelling with the Greek sisters is Paul and Angela, who have bought plants from the nursery in Kyogle where Pauline works. They also walked the Great North Walk just before me, and I’m sure I remember seeing their names in the walkers logs. It was geat to reminisce about it all. Poor Andrew is the fifth in that group, whom I fear will find his walk story eclipsed by the fact that he forgot to bring the car keys with him for their ride home. They have a dinner booked at a 4 star restaurant – at 4.30pm – to celebate the finish of the walk…it all depends on whether they can break into the car or not. I really hope they made it…

Back on the walk, and I came upon Sophie and Lauren. Close to 30’s, this was their first long hike, and they had been doing extraordinarily well. Seeing the gear and excitment reminded me of me way back when. It was really cool. Both girls had big, hearty, joyous laughs, that made me smile more than once on hearing them at the campsites. They were a breath of fresh air after being camped alone for so long.

Anyway, I caught up to them, and this is the story that they told….

Lauren was lying in bed and thought that Sophie was “strangely caressing my arm”. Sophie asked “Did you just touch my foot?”. “No!”. “OMG – there’s something in the tent!”. That something turned out to be a rat.

An emergency conference was held outside the tent, and a cunning plan devised. Using blocking tunnels, lolly food lures and pure balls, they would extradite this rat from the tent! If this had been me, I would have been a piddling mess, moaning in a heap in the dirt. These girls used their wits and humour to defeat the beast. I think both will be long distance hikers for life.

Sophie and Lauren – outwitted the rat, and likely hikers for life

After hearing this story and feeling both enormously bemused and horrified, I moved on. The majority of us met up a Lake Poona, a beautiful little spot that would have been great for a swim…if only it wasn’t so cold and we were all itching for town.

Lake Poona

Carlo sandblow was the final feature of the walk. It was a weird ending. It’s a long weekend in QLD and the sandblow was crawling with people come to visit. It felt confronting, after all that solitude, to see so many people. I took a couple of snaps and quickly left.

Carlo sandblow – no pristine sand here. Check out all the tracks!
Last stunning view.

And then I finished the walk! There was no fanfare. I didn’t even take a photo – there was so many people around. I saw Paul and Angela and the gang and wished them well. I then headed for my accommodation, and a nice break before I head to K’gari tomorrow.

Cooloola Great Walk – Day Four

Littoria Walkers Camp to Kauri Walkers Camp – 21km

“Leg stretch achieved”

I was excited about today – the chance to put myself to the test a little bit and stretch the legs with a 21km hustle.

Again, I was away first.  I dawdled down the hill.  I had walked this way yesterday looking for an advertised lake in which I thought I might swim.  No way of getting to the lake, so I returned to camp empty swim handed. 

Today’s stroll was a walk in thirds.  The first third consisted of some moderate ups and downs in burnt dry sclerophyl forest.  Honestly, nothing really spectacular here.  But a nice enough walk.

Misty morning

Having lived out at Uluru for 10 years, I was lucky enough to be taught some tracking skills by the indigenous Traditional Owners.  I always enjoy using this skill when I’m hiking and trying to interpret the goings on behind the scenes.  It has been disappointing, though not unexpected to see so many cat tracks as I’ve been walking.  Huge problem.  World over.

Distinctive round paw print of the cat and tell-tale tail drag of a wallaby

The second third of the walk was through intensely beautiful rainforest, fragrant with honey, and all on a steady downwards incline.  Gorgeous walking.  And very reminiscent of home.

This point marked the start of the rainforest walking.
Forestry downhill

The final third was back to sandy heath and dry forest.  Nothing too difficult.  The 20km seemed to fly by, though I was happy enough to reach camp and set up for the evening.

The campsite was in lush rainforest, and to my great pleasure, I found a site that had a natural backrest.  Perfect!

Yay for a backrest!
Home sweet home

I allowed myself to think about the PCT a bit today.  Allowed myself a little cry at the loss of it.  I haven’t really let myself do that yet.  It’s not off the cards forever, but it is for now.  I find myself wondering whether I could have achieved the ultimate goal.  Lamenting the friendships that I never made.  The joy of doing something solely for me for 6 months – I regret not being able to do that.  Secretly I think I would have made it.  But, for now, we’ll never know.  I’ve put it back on the shelf – as a dream…maybe one day.

Meanwhile back at camp, I know that I have a couple of hours up my sleeve before the others arrive.  I put my headphones on, turn it up full bore, and dance and sing my heart out.  I’ve missed doing that!   

Use of said back rest!

Sunshine Coast Great Walk – Day 4

Thilba Thalba campsite to end of walk – 12km + 3km to accommodation in Mapleton

“Makes it! And room in the tank for more!”

Woke up refreshed and ready for the day.  It’s sprinkling, but doesn’t seem too bad.  I wonder what time it is?  I unzip the tent and peer outside….nothing but darkness.  Might just be because it’s overcast?  Gonna have to turn on the phone and have a look.  Phone turns on.  2.15am.  Bloody hell!  Phone off.  Back to restless sleep. 

When I wake again I can tell it’s early morning.  The kookaburras are cackling.  And the magpies are singing.  The tent is lovely and dry.  Until I spill my morning coffee inside it.  Then it becomes quite wet. 

It’s stopped raining!  And I emerge from the tent to dripping trees and wispy clouds. 

I don’t hang around.  Pack up and push off.  It’s wet.  And it’s town day.  The morning’s walking is mixed.  Some areas of tremendous weeds…the downside of being just below a road I suppose.  And some areas of absolute beauty.  Grasstrees and wattles bursting with yellow.  Easy walking, contouring around the mountain. 

Grasstrees galore

I came to a lookout and watched the mists rolling in the valley.  Soon, this walk will be over.  I reflect that it’s such a great introduction – short distances, great signage, stunning scenery, challenges.  It’s got it all, in a small neat bundle.  I’ve thoroughly enjoyed myself.

Final lookout of the walk
Misty morning

Too soon, I reach Delicia Rd and from here I have around 7.3km of road walking to get into the township of Mapleton and reach my accommodation.  The roadwalking is quite do-able.  Steep at times, but with lovely rainforest off to the side.  It takes just over an hour to get into town.

I arrive at my accommodation by 11am.  They are not quite ready for me.  I drop my bags and head back into town for a cooked brekky of eggs on toast, pineapple juice and a coffee.  By the time I get back they are done.

The afternooon is spent relaxing, figuring out what to do about my power bank (I have a plan!) and showering!  Ah, the after walk shower.  You just can’t beat it.

I write this from the Mapleton pub where I’m having dinner.  It’s a nice old place.  People are sitting apart because of Covid 19.  No band here tonight.  The dinner was great, and after a couple of wines I feel sleepy.  Time for an actual bed!

Sunshine Coast Great Walk – Day 3

Ubajee Campsite to Thilba Thalba Campsite – 14km

“Here comes the rain!”

What a wonderful day of walking!  I’d had it in mind that I needed to start early.  Rain was forecast for later in the afternoon and there were several creek crossings to be made in the morning which were described as being impassable if heavy. With such a short distance today, I was also hoping to get into camp and set up before the clouds burst.

Little fairy garden camp site
Morning cuppa

I was on my way by just after 7am.  It was a gorgeous morning.  Cloudy, brisk and perfect for walking. The first couple of kilometers led downhill toward Gheerulla falls.  The track was a lovely mix of eucalypts, palms and grass trees interspersed with purple flowering pea.

Track down to the falls
A constant companion on the walk

At the bottom of the mountain, I veered off for a quick detour to the falls.  They were running briskly, steamy mist rising from the surface.

More morning contemplation…of a watery nature

Back on the track, I followed the creek for several kilometers.  This was primo walking.  Nice and flat, variety  of vegetation, pools of murky water, heaps of birdlife.  I crossed the creeks with no problem – no wet feet, though I imagine after some rain there could be some issues.

Such a beautiful, flat walking track
Crossing one of the creeks – sans rain
Morning tea break – right before the first of the showers hit

Heading slightly uphill, I came to a small clearing with an expansive view.  Time for a break.  As I watched, the clouds rolled in and it began to sprinkle.  It wasn’t heavy, and served to create an eerie atmospheric mist through the forest. 

The track started to rise higher.  Now there were numerous yellow wildflowers and bristly banksias.  From here, it was a steep climb back up to the top.  Lots of switchbacks made it really manageable, and with plenty of time, I rested as much as I wanted to. It was a great workout none the less.

Eventually, I was right up high again.  A break in the trees provided the opportunity for an amazing view off into the distance.  I could see rain clouds on the way. 

View point gets higher and higher and higher and higher!
Rain clouds on their way

At the top, I reached Thilba Thalba lookout and was able to see the mountain I had descended in the morning; the creek I had walked alongside; and, the ginormous mountain I had climbed.  I love it when you can see where you came from.

View from Thilba Thalba lookout
It’s getting more and more cloudy!

On the way to camp I started reflecting on why I love walking so much.  I’ve thought this before, but it was reinforced again today.  It’s because it makes me feel like I have a superpower.  For every step I take, that feeling grows.  It means that I have made some good decisions, that I’ve been fit enough, that I’ve had the will power and the want to succeed.  It means that I’ve moved out of my comfort zone, and at times, put myself in moments of deep discomfort.  Each step is an achievement.  And each step makes me feel invincible.  It’s an amazing feeling being able to rely fully on yourself.

I reached camp around 12.30pm and quickly began the task of setting up my tent.Nice hot lunch, and a trip to the viewing platform where it was windy, dark and grey.  Not long after, the first fat droplets of rain splattered down on to the picnic table.  Retreat!  Retreat!  and into the tent I bustled.

View from the campsite

That was at about 2.30pm. The rain drizzled on for about 3 hours before tapering off for a bit. I took the chance to don my raingear and head outside. Nothing to see here. Wet, wet, wet. I managed to get to the bathroom before the floodgates opened again. Small mercies.

Back in the tent…and this time for the long haul. There’s only so much you can say about it. Cooking, gearing up for bed, boredom…all in a cramped space. Nothing to be done.

View from the tent

I had been hoping to listen to a couple of podcasts before bed. No such luck. My brand new power bank died unexpectedly. I had gotten an Anker based on the reviews, but for some reason, this one seems like a dud. Trouble charging and now this…I’m gonna have to look for a replacement before the next walk.

So time to turn off the phone to conserve battery (no reception anyways), read the kindle and snooze. I kept thinking just how lucky I was – to be warm and dry, whilst the rain pelted down outside. What a feeling, to be warm, fed, and safe.

Final thought….this has to be a wombat head doesn’t it?

Come on! Has to be!

Sunshine Coast Great Walk – Day 2

Flaxton Walkers Camp to Ubajee Walkers Camp – 14km

“Wait what?!  I’m here already!”

People who know me know that I have one innate fear…rodents.  (Well that and semi trailers moving without the back attached – thanks Terminator).  I am absolutely shit scared of the busy, scrabbly, gnawy little critters. 

And I saw one.  Last night.  At around 6pm.  That was it – I jumped in my tent and didn’t come out.  That’s a long night of staying alert to any potential activity…ready to hit the torch at a moments notice!  I must have tired myself out with stress, cos I fell asleep about 8.30pm and didn’t wake till 5am.  For campers on an air mattress – you’ll know that is one long, uninterupted kip!

So I was off early again.  It was a beautiful walk down to Baxter Falls.  A soft gradient and stunning scenery.  The falls were lovely.  Gushy and rocky.  But a bit too cold and early for a swim. 

Morning cuppa!
Now you see it…
Now you don’t!
Track down to Baxter Falls
Morning contemplation
Funky lil swing bridge at Baxter Falls…who doesn’t love a good bridge when they are walking!

Next up, a long climb back uphill.  But how good it was!  So many lovely switchbacks, it really was rather pleasant.  Nothing like the straight up and down horrors of the Great North Walk. 

One of the downsides of being a ranger (and let’s be honest, there are very few) is the ability to spot weeds in what looks like a pristine environment.  Amazing how well they thrive, whatever the circumstances.  There wasn’t heaps – mostly Lantana and William Taylor – but enough to remind me of work!

At the top of the hill, I commenced a short road walk into the Mapleton Falls picnic ground.  Nice footpath.  No dramas.

The area hosts a picnic ground and lookout, with an amazing view off into the distance.  I had been planning to have lunch here, but it was way too early, so after a quick stop, headed off again.

From here to the campsite, the walk was beautiful and flat and beautiful and scenic.  Palm forests that reminded me of home, towering eucalypts, ephemeral creeks.

Creek crossing in the palm forest. 
Massive eucalypts

There was a poignant moment when I came across a memorial garden of sorts.  One stick had been planted for each Australian who has died of Covid 19.  A little card kept tally of the date and the numbers.  It was quite sureal seeing it, out in what seemed like the middle of nowhere, and a stark reminder that things are simply not good with the world.

Covid 19 stick memorial.  One stick for each death in Australia.

I made my campsite by 12.30pm.  Again, really nice choice of spots.  I cooked up some cous cous for lunch, blew up my sleeping matt, and lay out on a table for a read and a nap.  I’m reading “The Running Man” at the moment.  My brother and I absolutely loved the movie as youngsters, and I must say that I am really enjoying the book!

The rest of the afternoon consisted of taking half of my possessions to the Ubajee Lookout, soaking in the warmth, and enjoying the sinking of the sun.  Pastels, pinks and oranges were subtle in the sky.  I ate my dinner just as the sun disappeared behind the mountain.

Sunny afternoon
Filters into dusk
Descends into evening
Last light
Dinner time

Back at camp, I wrestled with the night noises. Once more, I was the sole occupant of the campsites, and I envisaged an army of rodents making plans to attack my campsite as soon as I let my guard down….

With some words from the head of my support crew, I rallied. I couldn’t go to bed at 6pm again! Distraction! Thats what I needed! I unpacked my headphones, put on the tunes, and belted out the songs like nobody was listening. Which they weren’t. I resolved to conquer my fear by visiting every campsite and dancing on every table. Which I did. Crisis averted! I was in bed by 7.30pm.

Sunshine Coast Great Walk – Day 1

Lake Baroon to Flaxton Walkers Camp – 16.9km + Montville Apartments to Baroon Dam – 5km

“Just Cruising”

I had a really nice time in Montville.  It’s a lovely little mountain town, full of quirky shops and eateries.  Had an early dinner with the eye on the prize of heading back to my room and lighting the fire.  Mission accomplished.  It felt like a very luxurious way to start the walk.

Fire and wine…not too shabby!

Although I had set my alarm for 7am, I bounded out of bed at the crack of dawn..literally.  With a 5km walk to get from my accommodation down to the start point, I decided to get on my way.

The air was crisp and cool.  Vapour breath.  The first few km passed very quickly with lots of interesting houses and roadside markets to look at.  My alarm going off scared the shit out of me!

I came to an intersection and was told there was to be a very steep descent for the next 2km.  They weren’t wrong!  But slow and steady and it was fine.  And I was incredibly grateful I wasn’t going the other way…that would have been a hellish way to begin or end the walk!

Before long I arrived at the start point.  Immediately it was beautiful.  Luscious green and soft underfoot. 

Back on track!

The track was lovely.  Well marked, and for the most part fairly flat.  I’ve struggled with my AARN bags over the years…wrong size for one and then breakages on another.  But boy oh boy was I pleased that I went with my gut and got another one.  This time – the Featherlite Freedom.  They may look weird.  They may cause a few sniggers.  But man, when they are working, it’s like magic.  So much weight, and you barely feel a thing.  Yep, magic I tells ya.

Highlights of the morning included a couple of lookouts.  Red rock and green dappled with the morning sun.  A soft, green river framed by the surrounding trees, but sluggish and dangerous looking in it’s stillness.  The rocks and spray of Kondawilla falls.  Big, fat monitor lizards basking in the sun.  The crack of the whipbird, the melody of the whistler and the cackle of the kookaburra.  And numerous opaque blue waterholes.

Pool at “The Narrows” lookout
Slimy green river, but oh how beautiful!
Crazy colour
Lovely grassy track…where does it lead?
Playing chicken with a big, fat monitor lizard

Right before lunch, after a set of steep stairs, I was able to stop in at “The Rockpools”  where I took the opportunity to refresh in the freezing water.

The “Rockpools”
Never pass up the opportunity to soak your poor, old feet

I made it to the Kondawilla picnic ground by lunchtime, feeling really pleased with my steady pace.  From here, I had less than 5km to campground.  In the spirit of making sure that I enjoy this walk more than I was able to on the Great North Walk, I pulled out my stove and cooked up some noodles for lunch.  A couple of kookaburras and a couple of bush turkeys were my companions.   My very eagle eyed companions.

I set off again.  Another road walk.  Not too bad though.  Before long I exited the road and was back in the bush.  Quick call to the head of my support crew and I sauntered off for the final km to camp.

View from a section of the road walk

The campsite is really nice.  There are about 12 spaces.  All really private and framed by ferns.  Although there was heaps of day walkers out today, it appears that I am to be the only camper here for the night.  I can already tell that I am going to be a little creeped out by the night noises…

Feels so, SO good to be back into it again!

Post PCT and the Covid Blues

In a post covid world the PCT dream is shattered. I take solice on the Sunshine Coast Great Walk

How’s everyone doing?  It’s been a hell of a ride, hasn’t it…

I must say, I’ve been struggling a bit.  It’s all a little…overwhelming.  I’ve found it terribly hard to step back from the dream of the PCT.  The planning, the prep, the all consuming thoughts, the training, the adventure.  Though on the other hand, I’ve watched in horrid fascination from the beautiful safety of Norfolk Island and said to myself over and over….”Thank God I’m not there.  Thank God I’m not there….”.

It’s all left me a bit down.  I see you nodding.  “Join the club Mel”.  I know, I know.  But this is MY story. 

You may recall that I free-wheeled after realising the PCT was a no go.  I had plans to go to Western Australia and try the Bibbulman Track.  Followed by walking the length of New Zealand on the Te Araroa.  Neither of those things are happening.  Borders closed.  Instead, I’ve snuck (hey, hey…not literally…I’ve followed all the rules!) into QLD.  I’ve grabbed all my brand new gear that’s been anxiously waiting for me since March, and I’m going to hit a few walking tracks.

So, adorned in my mask, I’ve left the safety of Norfolk and flown into Brisbane.  Selfish??  I don’t know.  It’s an argument that’s been circling in my head since I made the decision.  In my mind, it’s a calculated risk.  Others may not agree.  All I can do, is my best.

Travelling…corona style

The International Terminal was terribly creepy in it’s loneliness.  No buzz and bustle.  Just sombre silence.  A stark reminder of the state of the world at the moment.  Perhaps the only positive, free booze on the plane.  However, even I – lover of red wine, am able to say with certainty –  I wish things were normal.  And that I wish I had had to pay.

I saw my family!  Well, the majority of them.  Mum, Dad, sister, husband, niece, nephew.  It was wonderful!  Because you worry.  And you stress.  When you’re at a distance.  But this was all so…normal.  We picniced and played cards and danced and checked out all the new kid’s stuff.  Just what the doctor ordered.  The only down side…. My brother and my fella missing from the party.  However, they are fulfilling the most important function of all – the care of Bronte the wonder dog. Respect men!

This morning I set off on the train to get started on my walking holiday.  The Sunshine Coast Great Walk is the first cab off the rank.

My family often say that I always seem to attract “interesting” people to me…Case in point….First off, a fellow directly behind me who was singing “swing lo!  sweet chariot” over and over again.  Not the whole thing.  Just that line.  And in a voice which really didn’t have much of a timbre to it.  He got off the train after about 15 excrutiating minutes.

Next up, a young “metrosexual” type who seemed to be crackling with energy.  He sat across the isle from me.  At one point he said to me “Look I’m just going to be filming something over here…be assured the camera is pointed at me though”.  Oh, just a bit of scenery filming I thought.  “No worries.  Go ahead”.  Turns out this guy was making a half hour video for his “millions” of YouTube followers.  An expert in “supreme confidence”, this guy was an officianado in religion, the vortex method, and…confidence.  There were mantras galore – he unexpectedly received 65 thousand dollars over the course of three days!  And miracle after miracle!  And all you have to do is pay 10% of your income!  He’ll accept the money.  He’s a priest.  And will invest it wisely in others.  His video was halted when another passenger exclaimed “Did God let you know that you’re annoying all the other passengers!”  End of You Tube video.  Sad for his millions of followers. 

So, now I am in Montville.  A little village high on the hill with vast views out to the coast.  It’s cold and delicious.  I’m packed and ready.  58km and around 5km to get to the start point.  3 nights and 4 days.

I absolutely CANNOT wait! This has been like an itch that I just can’t scratch.  I need to get something out of my system.  Have an opportunity to rethink.  Come up with some new goals.  The PCT feels like a lost dream I’m afraid. Time to scratch the itch!

“I can’t believe I’m starting out…like this!”

GREAT NORTH WALK – DAY 1 (Part A)

Traveller’s Obelisk (Macquarie Park, Sydney) to Lane Cove Tourist Park

Distance: 21.36km

I can’t believe it….I honestly can’t believe it! All the planning. All the anticipation. All the spending. And I’m starting out…like this…..

To backtrack… Earlier in the year I had made the exciting, but fraught decision that I was willing, ready and able to hike the Pacific Crest Trail – all 4200 km of it – and that this would occur in the immediate future. With this in mind I went on a frenzy of information gathering – the only way that counts these days – Youtube videos. Here, I was advised unequivocally, that 1. I must get my pack weight as low as possible; 2. I must do a “shakedown” hike in order to test and refine both my gear and attitude; and, 3. I must train and train and train.

I took this advice very seriously. Old gear was out the door, and a slew of spending ensued – a new tent, backpack, shoes, water filters, cook system…you name it, I bought it. A “shakedown hike” was planned. I had to go to Sydney anyway to apply for my US visa. I would take all my new gear, and hike the Great North Walk. “Australia’s most accessible long distance trail”. From Sydney to Newcastle, this 250km hike was bound to test out my new gear and fill me with confidence and inspiration for the long hike to come! And I trained. With my superstar training partner, Bronte the dog, I walked around and around and around tiny Norfolk Island…enough times to make myself dizzy…

None of this has gone to plan…

And so it arrives. Morning of. D Day. Ground zero. This is it! All the preparation; all the training; all the anticipation, it’s all about to come together in one big, amazingly well executed walk!! Ummmmm. No. Nothing could be further from the truth!

I awoke in a fever induced haze. All night long, hot, cold, shivering, sweating. My voice! I couldn’t talk. What about the amazing vlog I was going to put together! With sick, tired eyes I examined my gear. My old gear. Delays in shipping to Norfolk Island had meant that none of my shiny, new, light, painstakingly selected gear had arrived! This included shoes. I glanced at the brand new pair sitting on the floor….same as my old ones, but without a single use. Straight out of the box. This was not how I imagined it would go! It was decision time…To go – sickness, old gear, new shoes and all. Or stay – Cozy up in the nice soft bed, and try and tame this flu.

I chose to go.

My plan is to go on the attack, so I’m going to head to the start point very soon. Busted out some new gaiters to go with my new shoes. #blistersforsure

Me…to a friend in a text message.
New gaiters. New shoes.

I pack up and get going. In hindsight, I wish beyond anything that I’d thrown some tissues in my bag. As I set out towards the starting point, the Travellers Obelisk, in Macquarie Park, I realise that although I’m sick, and things have gone wrong, I’m excited!! Time for the real challenge to begin.