Te Araroa Day 3 – Maunganui Bluff to Hukatere Lodge, 31.24km (69.6km)

Well the title really says it all doesn’t it? 70 clicks by the end of the third day. It really is a brutal start.

We decided to push off early this morning. Try and get a few clicks under our belts before it began to heat up. First out of camp!! Gold stars to us!

Early morning risers back on the beach

And it was a good decision too. The sea had deposited a mysterious mist over the land. It was like walking into an infinite void, where one could be swallowed up whole and disappear forever.

Like being in another world
The beach was eerie in the morning light

The first 15km passed reasonably quickly, despite our various ailments. The last 15 though….pretty hellish. Is it crazy that something as beautiful as the ocean can get monotonous after a while? There came a point where I longed for a change in scenery, just to change the focus and interest.

I had a musing thought that whilst brutal, the designers of the trail might have done this on purpose….forced the walkers to face themselves and the challenge straight up. That they had set it up so there was nothing to do but let your thoughts drift like an endless current, pushing you further and further from the comforts of home.

Although it was tough, we laughed a lot, put on some tunes, and said the word ‘inlet’ countless times….without any other features we used them as distance markers. It felt an amazing achievement to make it to camp, after two very long days of hiking.

A nice hot shower, cool drink and dinner overlooking the sunset had me feeling right as rain again. Though definitely looking forward to a couple of shorter days and then some much deserved rest!

Gorgeous sunset over the sea

Broken gear count -1 (My little keyboard I usually use to type my blogs with…this is all coming directly from my phone, so no guarantees of future quality!)

Number of times tape has been used so far – 2 (Aubs tent and my feet)

Te Araroa – Day 2: Twilight camp to Maunganui Bluff camp – 31km

Testing times for the brand new hikers. Testing indeed. Firstly a massive storm that ripped through camp at midnight, bringing with it crashing lightning and lashings and lashings of rain. Not really the start we were hoping for. Despite little sleep, two dry tents made for a successful start to the day….if not a bit of a late start. By the time we were packed up and ready the hordes had departed, leaving us alone to take a final look at the beach.

The days walk commenced in a civilised manner. Up over a little bush track, made even more pleasurable in the knowledge that once we hit the beach again, we hit it hard! They don’t call it 90 mile beach for nothing!!

So it was good times and a lot of laughs before…plop, plop, plop. Big, fat drops of rain. Slow and steady at first. Little by little getting harder and harder and harder. Until it was torrential. With not much else to do we splashed along in muddy puddles yelling defiantly to the gods of trouble .

Let the trouble commence!

I shouldn’t have done it, because before long we hit the beach. The long, long, long, long beach. In wet shoes and a dripping attitude. The gods of trouble continued with their rain wrath, the sand sticky wet, and clinging to everything it touched.

It wasn’t all bad. Beautiful coastline. The crawing of huge, fat gulls with black beaks. Shells and starfish littered the shore. Iridescent purple jellyfish swirling like space.

Wild ocean front
The dunes reminded me of a moonscape at times

Although the rain eventually petered out, heavily running inlets kept shoes drenched. The wet sand in my socks began to rub both feet and mind.

HOSC navigating an inlet

It was lovely to have somebody to talk to. Steadfastly walk with, despite aching feet and tired legs.

We hobbled into camp late in the day, cheering excitedly at our achievement. On tender feet and legs, tents were slowly erected, and the unwinding was able to start. A freezing cold shower washed away the grime of the day and the last of the toils. Sitting in the sun, drinking a hot cocoa with my hair drying, watching Aubs come back from an exploration of the surrounding islands, I felt peaceful and happy.

“Shell spittings” as they are called in Aotearoa. Aubs visited a whole island made of them. I love to imagine the thousands of folks, over time, conversing, eating and socialising.

Just need to do it all again tomorrow now! Another 30km day. The start of this trail is indeed, brutal.

The brilliant sunset over camp promises a fine day at least!

Te Araroa – Day 1: Cape Reinga to Twilight camp, 13.5km

And just like that….we are on our way! After an uneventful evening (aside from the town’s air horns blasting at 12.30am), the loquacious Greg picked us up, as promised, at 10am sharp.

It was quickly determined that he had a mate who was living on Norfolk Island, and just like that, the rapport was established.

Arriving at Cape Reinga, cultural bohemoth of the north, was a sureal moment. Foggy mists scudded across the sky, obscuring much of the view of the surrounds. After a few happy snaps, both for Greg and for us, we donned our packs, smiled big, and took off. In the wrong direction. Yes, in a not so audacious start we found ourselves in another carpark. Had we kept going we would have ended up back in Kataia! It’s the fogs fault.

HOSC makes his final preparations!
Two keen, clean walkers
Lost, but happy
Where the spirits leave the shore

Back on track we inspected the lighthouse and thought about the beautiful Maori custom of the area. Then, the main game. The big event. The setting off on the trail. I was excited, nervous, worried and more than anything, happy. A 12 month plan in the making was finally coming to fruition. And it felt golden.

Kilometer number 1…follow the orange markers!

The day was absolutely fabulous. Glistening beaches, dazzling blue surf, islands, creek crossings, stark red earth and massive sand blowouts. It is a fantastic way to get the legs moving, the heart pumping and the eyes seeing.

View from the track from the lighthouse down to the beach
Islands in the sun

It was a short day. A nice relaxing way to get back into it. I felt really good. At times it almost felt like my body could remember what it was supposed to do with a pack on. I am still in love with love distance hiking.

Aubs taking things in his stride

And the HOSC and I had a great time! It was so nice to discuss what I was seeing and feeling. It’s especially nice now we are in camp and there are so many people about. Ordinarily I would feel really out of place, but we have our small corner of the campsite and are about to cook up our dinner together. Perhaps watch the sunset. Life feels good.

View from the campsite at Twilight Beach

Hopefully it will last! Tonight a pretty major storm is predicted. And more than that, we have a massive 30km to try and get through tomorrow. Little steps. Let’s just get through dinner and we’ll see how we go…

Colourful array of tents at the campsite
Happy campers!

Te Araroa Trail – It’s happening it’s on, I’ve travelled, I’m away.  And I’m not solo!

Yes, that’s right.  You read correctly.  Without fanfare, without fuss (eyeroll from my family), I’ve slipped off to the Te Araroa trail in beautiful New Zealand.  Sadly, not to walk the whole thing, but to spend a month toiling and traipsing from north to south.

For those unfamiliar, the Te Araroa (or TA as it is affectionately called) runs from the tip of the North Island to the bottom of the South Island.   Cape Reinga to Bluff.  Or vice versa if that’s your jam.  By reputation alone, it is definitely not for the faint of heart.  And for most folk, if attempting the mammoth feat of walking the whole trail, it will devour four to five months of your life.

Man, I would love to try that!  However, work committments, the fact I had 3 incredible months off last year to walk the Heysen, and, well, life in general, means that length of time is out of the question.  The compromise – one month a year for the next few years, until the trail is completed.  Seems a pretty good compromise to me.  I know from experience that one month is definitely a challenge, a fitness extravaganza, and, an incredible adventure.

Enroute to the land of the long white cloud

And…..the best part is that the head of the support crew (perhaps I’ll start calling him Aubs from now on…or HOSC perhaps??) has the ability and motivation to come on this adventure with me!  For the first time in a long time, I will not be walking solo, but as a dynamic duo!

The dynamic duo and Bronte the wonder-dog!

Is now the time to say that I’m slightly scared about that?  Well, I am.  I worry for Aubs.  For us.  I worry that I have become so in love with walking by myself, and so used to self reliance that I’m going to find it really hard to compromise on things. To make decisions together.  To let go of my own goals and turn them into mutual ones.  In short, I’m worried I’m going to be a supreme bossy boot.  And most likely, a pain in the arse.

A challenge within a challenge!  That’s the way I need to look at it!  That, and being able to share something I love with someone I love.  I guess an ideal outcome is that I never want to walk solo again!

We are due to start tomorrow.  My wonderful mum and dad travelled to my place on Norfolk Island to look after Bronte the wonder-dog for me.  And of course, house renos – months in the planning- have just started…no doubt, on account of my being away.  So my legendary parents are valiantly taking care of that business as well!

Family portrait – yes that is my world famous town skirt!

Last night was spent sauntering the city and enjoying some people watching down by the harbour.  Today we have travelled on the Intercity bus to Kaitai, from where we will get a a shuttle to the start of the walk tomorrow. 

Auckland harbour views
HOSC checks out the sky tower at night

I have another little worry…it’s the people.  Arriving at the bus terminal this morning to see what seemed like one hundred and one hikers jostling for position on the coach made my skin slither slightly.  No offence against anybody, but I find groups of hard core hikers somewhat overwhelming.  On board the coach, I had the choice of listening to hikers talk about their plans, and gear, and what they’ve accomplished previously…..or, to listen to a couple of Maori girls with terrific voices and a rollicking sense of humour bantering and singing behind me.  I know what I prefered….

I need to get over these things.  And I will.  Despite my experience, those first step nerves are there…can I make it?  Will I make it? And can I overcome some of my personal idiosyncracies (yes, I think that is a nice way of describing it for myself) to just enjoy the ride?

Only one way to find out.  And we are off tomorrow.

Wish us luck!