Chilly, chilly, chilly last night. We got a warming, occassionally smoky fire going in the beautiful old fire place. However, it made little difference to the overall night chills. A warm night would be very pleasant indeed.
Close up of the hut with the old stone fireplace on the right.
As would a day without sleet like rain and lashings of wind. How I long for a stroll on a gleaming spring day. Sun warming the body and spirits. Today wasn’t that day.
Which is a bit of a shame really, because the walk was really wonderful. Straight through the guts of a farm, wonderfully treed along the creekline. Stony mountains on the left hand side. A canola farm in the distance radiates summer. The reality is stinging rain and cold fog.
Approaching the canola farmWalking the outskirts.Magical coloursClose up of the crops
Up through a granitic pass, the rain dies off causing chattering finches and crooning magpie larks to celebrate. The bushland is old and well preserved. A shelter from the wind.
The granitic pass
The second part of the day follows a little used dirt road adjacent to farmland and eucalypts. Lovely, easy walking. Until right at the end, a steep hill rises to camp. I climb it quickly, hopeful that finally, finally, finally I might be able to make that birthday phone call. And sure enough, success!
I spend my afternoon in the tent chatting with the head of my support crew and making plans. Kind of getting too the pointy end of the stick now. And the proximity to Adelaide means bookings become more necessary.
It’s a nice way to spend the afternoon on a chilly day. Cath and Greg have another friend, John, camping with them tonight. So it’s time for all of us to brave the elements and see about our dinners!
It was a really lovely day of walking. One of the more interesting in recent times. The only thing I could think about though was getting to a high point. Getting reception. And making a birthday call. Despite my best intentions though, it never happened. Not enough 4G reception all day to make a call. And with that, my entry into “worst girlfriend of the year” is sealed. It’s a low point.
I’m trying not to dwell on it though. I tried my best. Can’t do more than that. Time to take my own advice and concentrate on the walk.
After a dull start to the day, a short creek walk followed by a stint next to the highway, the track got into some much more interesting country. Small bush tracks and unused roads making their way through mallee scrub and gorge-like creek beds. The prickly mimosa was in flower, it’s sweet scent wafting through the air.
Gorge like creek walkingLovely rocky section of the creek
Over a hill and into an open valley. The ever present wind is back today. Brisk and cold. The watery sun does little to take the chill out of the air.
Heading towards the hills
A fenceline provides a guide for moving between one range and another. Golden fields of canola shine like sunbeams in the distance. Resplendent against the irridescent green.
Golden fields of canola
The final hill is the largest of the day. Rocky and steep. I check my phone one last time. No dice. There will be no birthday phone call today. A sleet like squall moves in. Vanquishing what would have been amazing views. The cold droplets ensure little time can be spent sightseeing.
View at the top just before the rain hitThe little hut can be seen in the distance
The hut is in sight though. Miraculously lit up by the sun amongst these clouds. Promising comfort from the harsh weather. It’s solid structure provides a modicum of relief. The rain stops, but the wind continues to rage. It’ll be a chilly one tonight.
Clouds sweeping over Huppatz Hut. Not far now!
“Wishing you a very happy birthday Aubs. Thinking of you and wishing so much that I could just say hello. I miss you. xxx”
I’m feeling rather sad. Deflated. The big things on the horizon for the head of my support crew eventuated today. A life changing moment. AND, it’s his birthday tomorrow. But here I am at World’s End with no reception. No way to talk to him. Messaging through my Garmin just doesn’t seem adequate for this moment. Yet that’s the best I can do. It makes me sad. Homesick in a way I haven’t felt yet since I’ve been here. Chalk it up to one of those moments I guess. He’d be the first one to tell me we’ll talk when we can and that’s that. Still. I feel like I’ve really let him down. Let us down. That I’m not there to celebrate this moment with him.
I’ll take a walk around in a minute and see if I can get a bar or two. I’m not hopeful though. But maybe technology will come through for me! We’ll see.
A rather severe change in weather was expected today. 31 degrees yesterday to just 13 today. And rain to boot. I’d also been told a couple of times previously that todays walk was one of the worst of the entire length. Nothing to see at all. So it was very difficult leaving my comfortable Burra cottage this morning.
But the show must go on. I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed it. Just a light drizzle up until lunchtime. And although it was mainly roadwalking, the scenery on both sides was great. Mountainous on one side. Green pastures on the other. Grey clouds highlighting the brilliance of the colours.
A drizzly dayView to the horizonMountains to the right of me
The day went quickly, on account of the rain. Stopping for lengthy periods is not high on the agenda. So although it was a relatively long day, I arrived at the walkers camp by 2pm.
Another old ruinThe grey day does make the colours really popRed rocks surround this mountain
The camp site wasn’t much chop. Very little tree cover, so no shelter. I decided to fill up on water and walk the extra 1.5km to the “free” camp for caravans and the like. Here there were toilets and bins at least. And a lot of people.
Cruising in with their vans. Back and forward. Back and forward again. And again. Trying to get the absolute perfect spot. The van closest to me has been moving in small increments since before I started writing this blog. It’s just one night. Park up already!
Whilst they’re stuffing around I might as well go for a wander and try and find a phone signal. I really, really want to have a chat!
Kind of at the halfway mark (well, a little bit over), so I thought I’d give a bit of an update on how my gear is going.
My gear has been doing it tough! The breakdowns –
Sea to Summit Flame 4 Sleeping Bag – We all know what happened here. The zipper broke on the first night. It has been returned for a full refund.
MSR Hubba Hubba Tent – Again, this we know. A joiner unglued (or broke) on the 3rd day. Another did the same about a week later. MSR sent replacement parts and the pole is now fixed. It took over 23 days though and was a real pain in the arse.
Leki Hiking Poles – 1 broken pole. My fault. Being uncoordinated the cause. I’ve been walking with a taped up pole for a while now. But have just ordered a replacement set to pick up in the next town. The new set is the Black Diamond brand and not as expensive.
Sea to Summit Aeos pillow – has developed a leak and needs to be blown up again during the night. I’ll live with that.
Sea to Summit waterproof bag – I use this for my electronics. One of the clips unscrewed itself. Not a biggie and I could probably fix it if I found a small enough screwdriver.
Mont Helium 450 sleeping bag – Yes. My new sleeping bag already has a small tear in the fabric. Not sure how. Woke up to a spray of feathers. Taped up for now.
Patagonia rain / wind jacket – sustained a tiny barbed wire wound when opening a gate. Taped up for now.
Altra Lone Peak shoes – Have been really good but have ordered a new pair to pick up in the next town in anticipation of an increase in road walking.
The mountain is in my rear view mirror and I’m fanging it into town. Sort of…..it’s really rocky”.
Message to my support crew
First things first. There were a number of devious crimes committed at the campsite last night. Heinous. Unwanted and unwarranted.
Peeping Toms. Can you believe that? Right out here? And not just one of them. Five of them! All lined up and gazing silently into Cath and Greg’s tent as they rested. Just….watching.
They were all young folk. Hell bent on nefarious activity. Their leader…the audacious number 729. A big guy, and brazen to boot. When discovered and called out, the leader summoned his gang. Paced about. Staring. The promise of violence in the air. They wanted in to this enclosure. And they didn’t want to take no for an answer.
After a classic stare off, us versus them, 729 decided enough was enough. And off they went. Disaster averted. Cath and Greg left with a creepy “spied on” feeling. Not nice.
729. Trouble maker.
It was a beautiful evening. Relatively warm and the stars blazing. We all retired. Happy in the knowledge we had a short day into town.
Crime number 2. Provocation with malicious intent. Fast asleep until bang, bang, whoosh, screeeetttchhh. A kooky galah. Crazed and dive bombing the tent before cackling it’s head off and flying away. Over and over again. I had thought the bird had chosen me as a target until the morning revealed Cath and Greg. Also slightly bleary eyed and also subjugated to the insane birds attacks. There must be something in the water around here…
The walk today started with a pleasant stroll through a garden of thistles before deviating towards the hills. Here we go again. I was so glad I hadn’t attempted to do this yesterday. Hard work. Hard, hard work. But with a great reward at the end! It helps keep the motivation high, and by lunchtime, I’ve reached Burra. Place of food and showers and washing clothes and an actual bed. I’m excited! And so are my clothes.
Looking back at the little campsite of planted trees with a thistle garden in front.Mountainous. Greg and Cath are tiny specks on the other side. I very nearly stepped on this poor fellow who was sun baking right on the track. He didn’t move. I went around.
Also, I’ve hit the 600km mark! Unbelievable. I’ll have a little review of how my gear (and I) are going tomorrow. But tonight is a night to enjoy my good fortunes. And relax.
Wow it was windy today! This furious wind seems to have been a constant companion for much of the trip. I can’t figure out whether it’s always blowy in this region or whether it’s been an extremely blustery year. Either way, I was mighty glad that it was with me for the majority of the day, and not against me.
It was a day of vast, pastel views. Slowly the desert is regressing to once again sit only in my memory, as the green paddocks begin to take precedence again.
Green paddocks are the order of the day
I significantly lost the track for the first time this morning. Probably a better description is that I just didn’t see the turnoff and was bounding along with unbridled energy this morning. The wind at that time felt warm and full of promise. Waves of good fortune washing over me.
So much fortune that I unnecessarily climbed a rather steep hill. Serendipity made me realise my mistake when I turned on my phone to take a photo from that viewpoint and it was open to the map page. The wind definitely grew stronger and more leering as I back tracked back to the path. I’m pretty sure it did anyway.
Unnecessary hill climb
Leaving tracks, the walk then follows fencelines through rolling paddocks. Previously, this would have left me physically drained and gasping for breath. It was so wonderful to look at them and know with absolute clarity “I can do this!” It felt like an affirmation. That I had finished my training and was ready to complete this thing. For the first time I acknowledged to myself “I can do this. I’m sure of it”.
Heading into the hillsRather hilly that!
It’s a moment of self belief that brings me much pride. Now all the pieces just need to fall into place.
I get into camp around 12.30pm and contemplate pushing on to Burra. It is just so windy. When I look at the map I’m dismayed to see I would be pushing into the wind practically the whole way.
Greg and Cath arrive and confirm that the wind is supposed to die off in a couple of hours time. We sit around chewing the fat until it does die down enough to get our tents up. And then we dive into them and relax. Finally out of the wind.
I’m really excited for tomorrow! A short walk into Burra where I have a nice apartment booked for a couple of days. Should be there by lunch! There’s just the matter of a fairly big mountain to get over first…..
Mountain to climb…tomorrow.All the beautiful grasses bristling in the wind.
I don’t usually talk about dreams, but last night I dreamt of fire. It was so real, I could smell the smoke and hear the crackling of the flames. Feel the heat. I haven’t had a dream like that in a long time.
I think about it whilst I walk today and conclude it was memory. So many of my memories associated with this landscape are related to fire. Starting them. Fighting them. Sitting around talking. Making cups of tea for the ladies and using the smoke to keep the flies away. Morning embers being blown back to life as folks awake in the community. Constant pungency on the clothes. The unique smell of mulga burning. Fire was so pervasive during my time in the desert. Glad there’s no sign of it now though.
It’s another great day of walking. Another short day. I’m not sure how I’m going to go when the stakes increase again. But today I just enjoyed the big sky country. Threaded through with dry creek beds and rocky scree.
Big sky countryPretty coloured trackCreek of contemplation
I stop at one of the larger creeks for a break. There is water here. Such a precious thing in these parts. I think on an encounter I had just had.
It’s so disappointing to me when an encounter starts with “Wow! That’s a lot of stuff you’re carrying!” Note to hikers, current and future, don’t lead with that. There’s so many other things to say…”How’s your walk going?”, “What should I look forward to?”, “Gorgeous day isn’t it?”, “I’m loving this walk. Are you?” Commenting about the way someones pack looks, really does nobody any good.
When I met that troubled hiker a couple of days ago, he was wearing an Aarn. I said to him “I see you’re an Aarn convert!” To which he replied “Yes. And everybody looks at me and treats me like I’m a bloody idiot!”. At the time, I made light of it and told him they just didn’t know the power of the Aarn. But actually, I knew exactly what he was talking about.
Today I said what I always do when somebody comments and they’ve never seen an Aarn before “It’s just the pack. I’m probably carrying much the same as what you are”. But really, what does it matter if I’m carrying more anyway? And willing and able to? Each to their own with what they feel comfortable with. We don’t all have to be the same.
After enjoying this hobby for more than 20 years, I’m not a fan of the “competitive” side to gear, and whose got the smallest stuff, and whose stuff weighs the least. We’re all out there to enjoy it. And everybody can do that differently. I say we just focus on why we are all out there….the walk.
Straight up.A cauldron of scenery
I’m camping tonight at Black Jack Hut. It’s a cute little thing with 3 bunk beds inside. But it’s a lovely afternoon, and I sleep so much better when I’m tucked away in the tent. And, I’m carrying the big ‘ol thing anyway! Might as well use it right! Ahaha! (She says, sipping from her actual metal water bottle. Of which she has two).
Black Jack hutStunning sunsetOMG! Two person tent. For one!
Today was one of my favourite days on the trail so far. Back in my beloved desert country. Snaking down an ancient gorge. It was wonderful.
Without knowing too much about this little section, I had been tossing up doing a long day, skipping this campsite and trying to make up some lost time. In the end I decided to take my time and enjoy the shorter days. And I’m so glad that I did that. Rushing through the day would have broken my heart.
Because just like that, I was back in red, rocky, raw desert country. Spiky and harsh, but beautiful and soft looking. Again, I had that sense of coming home. Even though I have never been here before.
Looking back at Mt BryanDesert scrub
The day started with a pleasant road walk alongside giant eucalypts. Scenery that Heysen himself may have used as a muse. Looking backwards, Mt Bryan was shrouded in a misty cloud which started disapating as the sun began to find strength.
Up a track, the giant trees began to make way for typical desert plants. Mallee scrub, mulga, brightly coloured wattles, crimson Eremophilias and sticky hopbush. As well as the ever present tjilka. Prickly bush. The distance and expanse of it all make me feel humbled to be a small part of it.
Break time!
Over a rise is the Tourilie Gorge. Slaty, crumbling rock walls snaking their way through the valley. Large caves and small rockpools providing shelter and resources for the many creatures that live along it’s breadth. Tiny reptiles dance in and out of the rock crevices having been caught baking in the sun.
Track into the gorge. Interesting rock formationsMountain with a scaly skirt
I enjoy it all immensely. This sudden change of scenery. I take my time and explore. Extremely thankful that I don’t have to rush past. That I can take it all in.
The gorge ends and the path follows old tyre tracks through desert scrub, so familiar, it is impossible not to think on my desert past. Hundreds of dog walks taken on tracks just like this one. The reminiscing makes me happy. I conclude that all of it, has led me to the special place I am in right now.
Soft, dappled colours of the desert plainJust the chimney still stands on this old homesteadCamp site under the Mallee.
The afternoon is spent reading my books and listening to the bird life. It has been an extremely enjoyable day.
Message to my support crew from the summit of Mt Bryan
It’s amazing the difference a day can make. A good sleep. Yesterday, I was probably feeling the lowest I’ve felt on the entire walk. Physically tired. I’m not sure of the reason, but can only assume a combination of distance traveled, lack of sleep, a little bit of stress, and general repetitiveness in my activities.
But today. Today I felt just wonderful. Totally recovered physically. Totally positive mentally. Like I’ve kicked into a new gear at just the right moment. And I feel great again!
I started the morning with an extra long lie in and simple breakfast at the pub. I thanked the owners for their hospitality and set off.
The first challenge was to successfully negotiate “magpie alley”. A road walk lined with magnificant old eucalypts. Prime real estate for these parents of the year contenders. I strutted along, one walking pole being useful on the ground, and one walking pole being useful in the air. Waving about above my head. They really are ferocious little creatures when they want to be.
Turning off the road, a little creek walk led into the climb to Mt Bryan. Tallest point in the Lofty Ranges. How I reveled in that climb. I had an absolute ball. I’m not sure what made this so. The crazy wind. The sun shining. The change in scenery. The amazing views back to where I had been, up at the Trig, just a couple of nights ago. The vast green and brown vista moving forwards. How physically capable I felt.
Creek walk towards the mountainsTrack towards the mountainsStarting to climbRocky viewsOver in the distance is the windfarm I wandered throughThere’s the Mt Bryan summit.
A combination of all those things probably. When I reached the top there was no mixed emotion at all. Just pure, unadulterated joy. I wish I could bottle that feeling.
YES!!!
It was incredibly windy at the top, so I didn’t stay long, proceeding to move down the steep, rocky slope to the bottom. I met somebody going northbound on the way down. Full of light and smiles I asked him how his walk was going. “I’m hating it!” he replied. “I hate the Heysen!”. I wasn’t really sure what to say. We made a bit more small talk and went our separate ways.
I’ve thought a lot about that meeting in the hours since. Wondered whether he was just having a bad day, much like I did yesterday. Or whether he was really not enjoying it. I’m the first one to admit, I’ve had some challenging days to be sure. But essentially, it’s those days that really remind you to enjoy the good ones. That allow you to feel the full range of emotions. Allow you to become resilient on those bad days and joyous on the good. I honestly hope that the walk becomes a little brighter for that fellow in the coming weeks.
A mountain of red in a sea of greenTop notch viewTrack to the bottom
And now I’m sitting in the old Mt Bryan school which has been converted to hut style accommodation for walkers. It’s a very swanky one, with two separate sleeping rooms, kitchen and lounge area. It is blowing an absolute gale outside, so once again, I feel incredibly grateful for the security that these old walls provide.
Shades of white on the way to the hutThe hut! With a very special sign out the front!
And. Ta da!!! Have a close look at the little sign in the hut picture. Apparently I’ve reached the half way mark! So, I’m feeling just a tad proud of myself. It’s always nice when that happens. 😊
I’m sitting in the dining hall / bar of the Wildongoleeche “Wild Dog” Hotel. It’s pizza night. And I’m excited.
It’s a funny little place. Full of eclectic trinkets and family photos. I absolutely love a painting in my room which depicts a person carrying a backpack in a mossy gorge. It feels just right somehow. Additionally, and very importantly, the shower is amazing. Best yet!
I wish I owned this picture. It speaks at great volume to me.
To say the morning up at the Trig was a bit fresh is under-selling it. Just a tad. The wind had picked up during the night. Nothing crazy. Just enough to make packing up the tent somewhat of a challenge! And in that cold, cold air it was so, so sweet to fold my newly fixed tent pole up. As if it had never been broken at all.
Bag used for scale.
There were no real highlights on the walk today. Very straightforward road walking for the most part. But it was beautiful sunshine all day. It’s amazing what a dry, warm pair of feet can do for the soul. So, it was pretty quick sticks into town.
Sweet green powerI’ve taken to sitting on the fence stiles when having my breaks.
It’s about time I had a straightforward day!
The spot Greg and Cath found for their break was definitely much more stylish than mine.
