Te Araroa Day 18: Whananaki Campground to Nikau Bay EcoCamp, 25km (349km)

Awesome little day today. I had snagged a simple cabin for the princely sum of $25. So, a nice comfy sleep for me last night.

The sky was overcast as we packed. Optimistically, I began the day with my raincoat off. No sooner had we crossed the longest footbridge in the southern hemisphere, the sky opened and the rain began to fall. Raincoat on.

It was a bit of a shame, because the track this morning meandered along a coastal trail. Beautiful bays. Though the rain obscured the best of the views. I was interested to go past the “Poor Knights” islands – the colour of the blue paint I am using for my renovations back home. Definitely wasn’t as blue as that paint, but the walk was lovely.

Rainy bays

We were corrupted by other hikers today, and my rebellious streak continued. We decided to take the coastal road to Ngunguru, rather than the designated TA track. It was a great decision. We walked 5km into the little town of Matapouri. It was easy road walking, with plenty of majestic views and interesting houses to envy.

Heading into Matapouri
Creek crossing
Little ray of sunshine on the estuary
This area is traditionally protected and guarded by stingrays, dolphins and great white sharks.

I continued with one of my new creeds just as we left town. An offer of a ride to the next village – 6km of windy, little verge road. We readily accepted. “If help is offered, I will take it”. And arrived in the marina town of Tutukaka, just in time for lunch.

HOSC admires a giant tree

It was a quick 4km then to the township of Ngunguru where James arrived in his little dingy to pick up the hordes of hikers and ferry them across the river to the Nicau Bay Eco Lodge. A lovely, handcrafted oasis with huge, clean kitchen, magical outdoor showers, and beautiful flat, clean campsites overlooking the water. “The Farm” this is not.

Aubs enjoys a tent site with a view!

There are many hikers here tonight. We have found ourselves in a “hiker bubble” over the last few days. Same faces at all the campsites…we are getting to know each other. It’s a new and increasingly nice element of thru- hiking to experience. Slowly but surely, I’m coming around to it.

We are about to be briefed by James on what to expect tomorrow. Apparently it’s going to be a 5.30am start to beat the tides and cross the estuary!! I’m not the best morning person. Let’s hope it goes ok!

STOP PRESS! Despite miles and miles of green grass a latecomer has decided to camp as close as possible to me! This I do not like!

2 thoughts on “Te Araroa Day 18: Whananaki Campground to Nikau Bay EcoCamp, 25km (349km)”

  1. The WYOW philosophy is really working for you in NZ! Pity about the rainy views on the coastal track…

    Hopefully you survived the close quarters overnight and have a good day to get across the estuary xx

    Carry on!

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