Te Araroa Day 20: Ocean Beach Camp to Whangarei Heads bach, 18km (392km)

New dawn, new day. And this one was a ripper.

The first order of business was to say goodbye to new found friends. We are having a rest day tomorrow, so it is possible we won’t see any of them again. It’s a strange sensation…how quickly you become attached to these people. A product of shared experience. How quickly we all say goodbye.

In the past week or so we have met and become friends with Peter, an older Kiwi with a wicked sense of humour and in depth knowledge of the environment; Nas, an older French woman walking the trail solo with a bubbly personality and decidedly sarcastic streak; Steve, an older Kiwi wanderer who has been walking the trail in sections, today he will complete it; and the young guns, Reed (Kiwi), Rob (Netherlands) and Alistair (UK) who met the first day of the trail and have been together ever since. We have been crossing paths with them on and off for almost two weeks. They are young and quick, and leave us in their wake as they speed past us and up the mountain.

For that is what we are doing today. Heading up a mountain. Walking the Te Whara track is like following the path of a great, sleeping dragon. All ridges and spines. Up one spike, carefully down the other side, and up again once more.

Start of the mountain climb
Looking back at the beach walk
Aubs takes it all in
Looking at the spine of the dragon

It is a breathtaking place. It’s steep slopes and dense vegetation act as natural barriers to invasive predators. Many threatened NZ species have been introduced here, where they thrive in the pristine scrub.

The mist starts to roll in
Mountain gives me the finger
Rocky scambling
Magnificent vegetation

We jagged a near perfect day. It was overcast and incredibly misty along the spine, stifling what would have been amazing views. However, it didn’t rain until we reached the bottom, which we were extremely grateful for.

5 hours to walk 8km. It was rather demanding!! There was a definite sense of relief at reaching the bottom and witnessing the beautiful calm waters of Urquhart Bay.

Reaching the bottom of the mountain
Urquhart Bay
Beautiful bayside walk…in between torrential rain

We managed another 3km before the sky opened up and torrential rain began to fall. Raincoats are not very effective in this sort of deluge, but we put them on anyway. Another 3km around the bay before we reach our destination, “Thistledo”, a little bach where we dry off, replenish sleep and food, and, plan for the final push into Auckland.

A lovely meal is consumed at the local restaurant. A twilight walk back to our accommodation. And a very well earned, magnificent sleep. Got to love the rest days.

Twilight viewing of the Marsden Point Port.

One thought on “Te Araroa Day 20: Ocean Beach Camp to Whangarei Heads bach, 18km (392km)”

  1. Now that’s more like it! No more black goo, smiles on your faces, magnificent vegetation and even a gesticulating mountain spur!

    Enjoy your rest day, even if you have to do the washing! xx

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