To start with, lets get up to speed logistically. Aubs and I enjoyed a lovely, restful day off in Ahipara, visiting the cafe again, meandering through the town, enjoying the flying fox in the kids playground, and working on plans for the next few days.
It’s a bit trickier than usual. At Ahipara the TA is closed. Has been closed for several years due to kauri dieback disease. The alternative is to do a 16km roadwalk, along a reasonably busy road into Kaitaia. From here, most people resupply, and then need to get a further 5km along a stretch of highway to the starting point of the days walk. This road is even busier, and the TA association themselves urge walkers to get a ride, rather than risk it on the side of the road.
Additionally, the walk today was supposed to traverse through the Ratea forest, renowned for its views and mud alike. Sadly, a severe storm several months ago devastated the track, with a reported 100 trees downed on the trail. An alternative route has been devised which departs from a hilltop saddle and ends up in Broadwood, a small town to the south of the trail.
So a fair bit of planning is involved. Enter Greg. Our loquacious driver from the first day. Not only did he agree to drive us into Kaitaia, wait for us to resupply, take us through the drive through at Maccas, and then drop us at the start of the trail, he charged us an absolute pittance for it. What a legend. On top of that, his wife delivered us an amazing feed of Thai deliciousness last night for dinner. Absolute, bloody legend.
And so it was that we were dropped off at the starting point by 9am, bags and bellies fully laden to begin the days adventure.
First off, a road walk of around 16km. It was a nice soft gravel, and there were very few cars, so it was a lovely morning. And oh so good to be off that beach. To have changing scenery. To see a variety of plants and wildlife and houses and paddocks. To see corners. To have hills. The start of this walk really is brutal. Especially in hindsight, that beach is no joke.
Before too long we arrived at the turnoff to Ratea forest, and began the upwards climb towards the saddle. It was a lovely gradient, not too steep, and the views across the lush valleys were spectacular.
Up at the saddle, markings made it easy to find the alternative track and from there we motored downhill. The decision was made at a bubbling brook to take our shoes off and walk across. Heaven. The water incredibly cool and soothing on hot feet.
We are now in Broadwood, and somehow, seem to have been deserted by all other walkers. I have no idea where they all went today. We are set up in the local park, and have just witnessed a group of 30 or more horses clip clopping down the road together. Owners yelling out to us in friendly banter about their mode of travel being so much more quicker and better!
It’s almost 6.30pm now. The sun is still blazing. It’s going to be “ramen bombs” for dinner tonight. And probably an extended discussion between ourselves as to where all the hikers went!
Too much enjoyment! Aub looks a kid enjoying splashing through puddles. You were lucky to run into such a friendly, helpful bus driver. What a good guy (and his wife too).
Agreed! Greg is a legend! Thai food delivery! Glad you enjoyed a well-planned rest day and seem to have evaded the rest if the trek mob!
Photos are such fun to look at – we’re getting lots more of you, Mel, this time around! Bronts is happy xx