Controversial opinion – I don’t love this trail….
As a result of the changed circumstances of the trip, I’ve been thinking a lot about the trail. Last time around, I didn’t love it….road walking, road walking, road walking. This time around, I haven’t loved it…Logistics, logistics, logistics.
In comparison to the many other walks I have done, it honestly feels like I have spent SO much time on this trip just trying to work out how to remain on the trail.
Case in point. Despite Aubs and I making the decision to part ways, I was considering continuing along the trail from Whanganui. My pre-planning notes indicated 60 odd kilometres of beach walking….or, in my head, three pleasant 20 km days strolling along the black sanded shores, as a lovely conclusion to the hike.
Not so! When I looked into it a little bit more, I couldn’t have been further from the truth. Just in this section, the problems were:
- There was only one legal spot to camp, at the half way mark, 30km down the beach. It was technically illegal (due to Forestry operations) to camp anywhere else. Two long days, but manageable, I suppose…
- EXCEPT, there is a river crossing 26km along the trail which requires passing on the low tide.
- Right now, low tide is at 10.30am. In order to cross safely (by 12.30pm), I would need to leave Whanganui and start walking in the dark, at around 5.30am. That would leave no time for resting or enjoying the day.
- The alternative is to do a long road walk, stay at a farm overnight, and either backtrack 17km back to the beach (once again, ensuring you are there to cross the river at the right time) or skip the beach entirely and road walk the rest of the way into Bulls.
There is no good choice. And I’m sick of thinking about these choices. So, I have decided to leave the trail and do a few bits and pieces that interest me with my remaining time. It feels disappointing. But I need to remind myself that just because it’s a long trail, doesn’t necessary mean I have to love it. And so far, this one has left a lot to be desired.
I had already booked a couple of nights in Whanganui, a large town and art deco capital of the world, surrounded by beach and river.
Following a morning spent at the Riverside markets trying in vain to find appropriate Christmas presents or earrings (another of my pairs has fallen by the wayside on this hike), I boarded the bus bound for Castlecliff and the black sand beaches. I wasn’t prepared for how wild the beach looked. Huge pieces of driftwood strewn over the shore, the waves an eerie green brown, and the shadow coloured sand glittering like thousands of jewels.
I walked along the beach down to a breakwall, where the mighty Whanganui River meets the sea. On this bright, calm day fishermen and families were scattered over the stones enjoying the sunshine.
I had been planning to catch the bus back, but spied a sign indicating a walking trail back to the CBD. A distance of 11km. Perfect. Off I trot. I feel adventurous and free, picking my own path.
The following day, the bus doesn’t go until late, so I long walk to Virginia Lake and enjoy the Winter Garden (still decorated in Halloween costume) and low, middle and high walking tracks around the lake. It’s another perfect day, and the lake is full of various varieties of ducks, intent on either snoozing or schmoozing for food. I sit in the sun, read my book, and really enjoy the morning.
I’ve now travelled north again to New Plymouth. My first impressions of this town are hugely positive…laid back, beach, great walking tracks, artworks…and all overlooked by the snow capped peak of Mt Taranaki. I really wanted to see one of those behemoths again before I left. The plan is to go for an alpine walk in a couple of days time. That is, if the weather gods agree. (Please agree weather gods!)
