Te Araroa – Part Two

The Weather Gods Laughed in my Face!

Enjoy the photo my friends…that is the best photo I have of Mount Taranaki…

Really NZ? Really? I’d talked things through with Brett, hostel owner and shuttle driver, counting on his experience to pick the best window.  Somehow I managed to ignore his repeated caveat “The weather can change at any moment”.

The day of the big alpine climb arrived.  I excitedly jumped in the van, pack less and carefree.  And at that very moment, it started sprinkling.  And sprinkling some more. And getting heavier. And getting mistier.  As Brett and I drove to the start point he said “Ta da! Here is where we would normally see a spectacular view!” I encouraged my eyes to pierce through the fog, to no avail.  Mount Taranaki was nowhere to be seen. 

After getting out at the carpark I headed for the start of the track, noticing that other hikers were disappearing into the intense gloaming, not even 50m ahead.

The weather did not ever improve.  I began the descent, stair after stair after stair through spectacular forest.  The rain was getting heavier and heavier, drops plopping firmly through the thick green canopy. 

Soaked, I reached the top of the ridge and looked out to see…white. Nothing but white.  Not even any sign of the mountain, and I was so close here! And it was now windy.  Sleety, freezing rain coming in sideways. Despite my rain gear, I was saturated. 

I arrived at a hut and was surprised to see around 10 people, mainly young backpackers, huddling inside.  There was a glorious fire going, and most were taking the opportunity to try and dry out a little, everybody futilely hoping the weather would suddenly change.  We did all laugh that, as a group, we had all made the choice to come up on such a frightful day.  It wasn’t forced on us…we were there because we wanted to be!

At one point, I just made the decision I was going.  Stubbornly, I fought my way against the wind to reach the alpine tarn or lake.  On a good day, the tarn is famous for allowing photographers to take a perfect mirror image of the mountain in the reflection of the lake.  Ahaha! I couldn’t even operate my camera! The wind was ripping, the rain pounding, my hands freezing…and, it just wasn’t to be. 

I headed back to the carpark and called Brett to come and pick me up an hour early.  “You look like a drowned rat!” he exclaimed. No shit Brett.  I didn’t get to see the mountain at all. Disappointing, yes.  Did I hate the day? No.  There was something gloriously comedic about being out there. And a hit to the senses is good for the soul. 

I spent the rest of the time in New Plymouth having a wonderful time, strolling through various parks and eating some superb meals.  I guess I’ll have to revisit the area at some point, and try and get myself a closer look at the temperamental mountain. 

I’ve now travelled to Paraparaumu Beach and set myself up in some lovely digs.  I’m hoping the weather gods will be a little kinder when I venture out to Kapiti Island tomorrow (Even writing that, I know I shouldn’t have said anything!)