Te Araroa – Day 1: Cape Reinga to Twilight camp, 13.5km

And just like that….we are on our way! After an uneventful evening (aside from the town’s air horns blasting at 12.30am), the loquacious Greg picked us up, as promised, at 10am sharp.

It was quickly determined that he had a mate who was living on Norfolk Island, and just like that, the rapport was established.

Arriving at Cape Reinga, cultural bohemoth of the north, was a sureal moment. Foggy mists scudded across the sky, obscuring much of the view of the surrounds. After a few happy snaps, both for Greg and for us, we donned our packs, smiled big, and took off. In the wrong direction. Yes, in a not so audacious start we found ourselves in another carpark. Had we kept going we would have ended up back in Kataia! It’s the fogs fault.

HOSC makes his final preparations!
Two keen, clean walkers
Lost, but happy
Where the spirits leave the shore

Back on track we inspected the lighthouse and thought about the beautiful Maori custom of the area. Then, the main game. The big event. The setting off on the trail. I was excited, nervous, worried and more than anything, happy. A 12 month plan in the making was finally coming to fruition. And it felt golden.

Kilometer number 1…follow the orange markers!

The day was absolutely fabulous. Glistening beaches, dazzling blue surf, islands, creek crossings, stark red earth and massive sand blowouts. It is a fantastic way to get the legs moving, the heart pumping and the eyes seeing.

View from the track from the lighthouse down to the beach
Islands in the sun

It was a short day. A nice relaxing way to get back into it. I felt really good. At times it almost felt like my body could remember what it was supposed to do with a pack on. I am still in love with love distance hiking.

Aubs taking things in his stride

And the HOSC and I had a great time! It was so nice to discuss what I was seeing and feeling. It’s especially nice now we are in camp and there are so many people about. Ordinarily I would feel really out of place, but we have our small corner of the campsite and are about to cook up our dinner together. Perhaps watch the sunset. Life feels good.

View from the campsite at Twilight Beach

Hopefully it will last! Tonight a pretty major storm is predicted. And more than that, we have a massive 30km to try and get through tomorrow. Little steps. Let’s just get through dinner and we’ll see how we go…

Colourful array of tents at the campsite
Happy campers!

Te Araroa Trail – It’s happening it’s on, I’ve travelled, I’m away.  And I’m not solo!

Yes, that’s right.  You read correctly.  Without fanfare, without fuss (eyeroll from my family), I’ve slipped off to the Te Araroa trail in beautiful New Zealand.  Sadly, not to walk the whole thing, but to spend a month toiling and traipsing from north to south.

For those unfamiliar, the Te Araroa (or TA as it is affectionately called) runs from the tip of the North Island to the bottom of the South Island.   Cape Reinga to Bluff.  Or vice versa if that’s your jam.  By reputation alone, it is definitely not for the faint of heart.  And for most folk, if attempting the mammoth feat of walking the whole trail, it will devour four to five months of your life.

Man, I would love to try that!  However, work committments, the fact I had 3 incredible months off last year to walk the Heysen, and, well, life in general, means that length of time is out of the question.  The compromise – one month a year for the next few years, until the trail is completed.  Seems a pretty good compromise to me.  I know from experience that one month is definitely a challenge, a fitness extravaganza, and, an incredible adventure.

Enroute to the land of the long white cloud

And…..the best part is that the head of the support crew (perhaps I’ll start calling him Aubs from now on…or HOSC perhaps??) has the ability and motivation to come on this adventure with me!  For the first time in a long time, I will not be walking solo, but as a dynamic duo!

The dynamic duo and Bronte the wonder-dog!

Is now the time to say that I’m slightly scared about that?  Well, I am.  I worry for Aubs.  For us.  I worry that I have become so in love with walking by myself, and so used to self reliance that I’m going to find it really hard to compromise on things. To make decisions together.  To let go of my own goals and turn them into mutual ones.  In short, I’m worried I’m going to be a supreme bossy boot.  And most likely, a pain in the arse.

A challenge within a challenge!  That’s the way I need to look at it!  That, and being able to share something I love with someone I love.  I guess an ideal outcome is that I never want to walk solo again!

We are due to start tomorrow.  My wonderful mum and dad travelled to my place on Norfolk Island to look after Bronte the wonder-dog for me.  And of course, house renos – months in the planning- have just started…no doubt, on account of my being away.  So my legendary parents are valiantly taking care of that business as well!

Family portrait – yes that is my world famous town skirt!

Last night was spent sauntering the city and enjoying some people watching down by the harbour.  Today we have travelled on the Intercity bus to Kaitai, from where we will get a a shuttle to the start of the walk tomorrow. 

Auckland harbour views
HOSC checks out the sky tower at night

I have another little worry…it’s the people.  Arriving at the bus terminal this morning to see what seemed like one hundred and one hikers jostling for position on the coach made my skin slither slightly.  No offence against anybody, but I find groups of hard core hikers somewhat overwhelming.  On board the coach, I had the choice of listening to hikers talk about their plans, and gear, and what they’ve accomplished previously…..or, to listen to a couple of Maori girls with terrific voices and a rollicking sense of humour bantering and singing behind me.  I know what I prefered….

I need to get over these things.  And I will.  Despite my experience, those first step nerves are there…can I make it?  Will I make it? And can I overcome some of my personal idiosyncracies (yes, I think that is a nice way of describing it for myself) to just enjoy the ride?

Only one way to find out.  And we are off tomorrow.

Wish us luck!